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05-18-2018, 09:24 AM
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M&P Shield 2.0 Front Slide Serrations - Too thin?
I shot my brother's Shield last week and fell in love. Now I want to pick up my first and honestly I prefer the look of the 1.0 over the 2.0. Why? The front slide serrations look goofy to me. Superficial, I know. Sadly I can't find the 1.0 for sale at a good price... it's literally the same as buying a 2.0 on sale right now. So my real concern is this:
Do the front slide serrations on the 2.0 compromise the strength of the slide at all? I read somewhere on reddit (can't remember where) that a gunsmith had an issue with the slide nearly breaking or being too thin due to this new feature. If that's true, I'm definitely going to go for the 1.0 as the other differences don't matter much to me.
If you have pictures of the inside of the slide near the front serrations, I'd be thrilled! Thanks.
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05-18-2018, 11:23 AM
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No, the slide isn't going to break. Oddly enough guns shouldn't be used as a sledge hammer. Under normal use it's fine. Take a look at all the custom milling jobs on slides. Much more removed but still not going to break. Wherever you read that they are yanking your chain. If you are planning on keeping it stock, go 2.0. If you're going to put a trigger in it and like the texture of the 1.0, no point in the 2.0 at that point. I have a 1.0 with apex trigger in it. My grandfather has a stock 2.0. I don't mind either but prefer the apex either way. The grip is negligible to me.
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05-18-2018, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CiggyTardust
Do the front slide serrations on the 2.0 compromise the strength of the slide at all?
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Not at all. There's almost no stress on the slide in that area.
Sure, anywhere you take metal away will reduce the ultimate strength of the material. But you have to correlate that with the strength necessary.
One of the goals of a builder is to make the slide as light as possible, yet keep it strong enough to withstand the use. This is why you see guys have their slides machined with holes in them.
So, you can rest easy, those serrations don't affect the strength of the slide.
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05-23-2018, 11:06 PM
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I have the Shield-9 V1.0. I love it, bone stock as it is, except for leather grip panels that I made (see avatar). I've learned to shoot it well enough to trust my point of aim and believe it to be a superlative example of carry efficiency in this size group. At ranges this gun is designed for - point blank to 20 feet, it is as accurate as it needs to be, stock trigger notwithstanding.
I don't see the efficacy of fwd slide serrations in most pistols because I think there is inherent risk in manipulating same so close to the muzzle. There is no advantage over the standard rear serrations that I can say is truly validating. Numerous reviews have mentioned that the serrations simply don't work that well anyway. They seem to be the cause of fingers slipping off as the slide moves back and encounters the widened part of the frame, just above the trigger guard. To me, it just helps to create a mis-handling risk. Others may disagree, for their own reasons.
I also think they are visually rather over the top and prefer a cleaner looking gun. I would prefer a smooth looking slide on my 2.0 Compact, as well as eliminating those ridiculous looking "passenger windows" on the frame, just under the fwd serrations. I've already removed the tactical rail and am very pleased with the result.
As to the cost of getting what you would really prefer, it shouldn't matter too much. Either way, they are not an expensive gun, on sale or not. I paid $419 plus tx and would do it again right now.
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05-24-2018, 09:25 AM
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If you read it on the Internet it must be true
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewToGuns17
No, the slide isn't going to break. Oddly enough guns shouldn't be used as a sledge hammer. Under normal use it's fine. Take a look at all the custom milling jobs on slides. Much more removed but still not going to break. Wherever you read that they are yanking your chain. If you are planning on keeping it stock, go 2.0. If you're going to put a trigger in it and like the texture of the 1.0, no point in the 2.0 at that point. I have a 1.0 with apex trigger in it. My grandfather has a stock 2.0. I don't mind either but prefer the apex either way. The grip is negligible to me.
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If you read it on the Internet it must be true.
I would not let concerns about the slide breaking influence my decision. However I do not like forward slide serrations so I would pass on it.
Instead I did what NewtoGuns17 has done...twice!
The Lady and I do not like the rough texture grip on the 2.0 so I have purchased two M&P 1.0 9mm pistols and installed APEX Duty Trigger kits in both of them. It makes them into totally different guns.
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05-24-2018, 10:45 PM
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There is NO reason to be concerned with the front serrations on the shield 2.0. To be honest, they should NEVER be used. IMO the gun should ALWAYS be HOT and in a kydex or quality reinforced nylon holster that will not draw moisture (AT ALL TIMES) and come out only for cleaning,training or God forbid for self defense. Vedder light tuck holster and N82 Envoy holster are my choice but I also use a reinforced nylon holster with a pouch for an extra mag. Uncle Mike and Blackhawk make then for around $20 and they are ambidextrous.
I agree with with the above post in putting in a APEX Carry/Duty kit in the 1.0 but use ALL the factory springs. It will give you a 5.6 pound trigger pull that is smooth as butter and almost a pound lighter than useing the APEX springs.
My 1.0 Shield shoots ALL rounds in the X ring at 7 yards.
I have been shooting pistols for over 50 years and the only guns that have such a good trigger(after the APEX parts are installed) is a Glock with a 3 pound trigger and a 1911.
Also, a lot of people don’t care for the more aggressive grip of the 2.0 Shield. That is a personal choice. You might want to get the Shield with factory night sights. It also comes with an extra 8 round mag. That’s worth considering and well worth the extra money.
Best of luck on your final purchase !
Last edited by Execpro; 05-24-2018 at 10:54 PM.
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05-25-2018, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Execpro
To be honest, they should NEVER be used.
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Um, what? Never? What do you think they are intended to be used for? I mean, what function is it that we should never do?
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06-04-2018, 01:48 PM
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The front slide serrations were poorly executed. How they look matters not, it’s a gun, not art. The 2.0 is the better gun over the 1.0. Better trigger, better grip.
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06-05-2018, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CiggyTardust
I shot my brother's Shield last week and fell in love. Now I want to pick up my first and honestly I prefer the look of the 1.0 over the 2.0.
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Your first M&P? Now is the time to run away; before you get hooked. M&P's are like eating bacon or boiled peanuts, they are addictive. You have been warned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CiggyTardust
The front slide serrations look goofy to me. Superficial, I know. Sadly I can't find the 1.0 for sale at a good price... it's literally the same as buying a 2.0 on sale right now.
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Yep, no doubt about it, the slide serrations are the visual signature of this line, they are unique and we love the waves. As for 1.0 vs. 2.0, I have them both and I like them both. Personally I think the 2.0 trigger upgrade would (and should) override the smaller design considerations, but good luck with your purchase.
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06-05-2018, 10:26 PM
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Ride the waves, baby...
1.0 waves...
2.0 waves... yeah, they're all good...
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06-05-2018, 11:25 PM
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The front serrations were intended to be used for press checking your gun. If you keep the gun HOT at all times this procedure is not necessary. There are two concerns that come to mind right of the bat.
1. You are putting your hand/wrist in front of the muzzle.
2. You may not get the slide back into battery. Which means that if you need to shoot,the gun WILL NOT fire.
IMO this is a gimmick to help sell the gun. The serrations may lighten the gun so VERY little that it is negligible.
Another sales gimmick is the trigger reset pitch. You DO NOT want to train using this method. Under the stress of a gun fight you could loose valuable time and possibly short stroke the trigger.
Hope this answers your question.
Be SAFE and shoot often!
Last edited by Execpro; 06-05-2018 at 11:28 PM.
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06-06-2018, 09:27 PM
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For me personally, I don’t need to press check any gun or have any tactile or visual cue as to the state of my guns. Besides trips to and from the range, to include cleaning afterwards, if they are not in the safe they’re loaded with one in the chamber.
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06-07-2018, 03:06 AM
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The only time I press check is after the gun is cleared and I set it down somewhere. I check it once before I proceed. Otherwise, the gun is always hot, in the safe or not.
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06-07-2018, 08:36 AM
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>>There is NO reason to be concerned with the front serrations on the shield 2.0. To be honest, they should NEVER be used.<<
That's what I say. Who needs 'em?
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06-07-2018, 09:58 AM
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I have a Shield 9 "1.0". Works for me, so I've not bothered to look at the 2.0. And I don't have the loose change to spend ....
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