m&p 2.0 9mm glock striker spring?

kiki

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hello.... I know this has been talked about before, my gun has a 5lb spring!!!I know there is a 6 lb spring for the m&ps.... is anyone using a glock 5.5 lb striker spring for their 9mm m&ps? looking for a little extra power on the striker spring!
how is it working for you? any pros or cons?
 
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hello.... I know this has been talked about before, I know there is a 6 lb spring for the m&ps.... is anyone using a glock 5.5 lb striker spring for their 9mm m&ps? looking for a little extra power on the striker spring!

how is it working for you? any pros or cons?
Are you saying the stock M&P spring is 6lbs and the Glock spring is 5.5lbs? Am I missing something, or is a lighter spring counter-intuitive and gives higher power strike?

Looking to get educated!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
no my friend the stock m&p spring is 5 lb there is a 6 lb for it.... glock is 5.5 lb seeking opinions on people who are using the 5.5 lb spring
 
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ok.... I'll break it down I have a m&p 2.0 5 inch 9 mm all stock with the exception of a nice polishing... I have over 3000 rounds through it and it has a very nice stock trigger it comes in at 3 3/4 to 4 lb... every once in awhile with ammo with hard primers it fails to ignite... want to increase my firing pin weight without messing too much with the weight on the trigger...
 
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The factory M&P9 M2.0 striker spring is 5lb. so I'm wondering how come yours is 6lb.
Anyway, for the competition/range shooting you can drop the weight by 1 lb without any issues. Most spring manufacturers offer 4 lb for M&Ps.

I don't see any issues you may find with 5.5 lb striker spring. (if you are 100% sure about your original being 6 lb).
 
my friend you're a misunderstanding me my factory spring is 5 lb... they make an aftermarket 6 lb spring... I don't want to go up that high unless I have to....
 
OK. I get it. I was confused with these numbers and hard primers.
What actually you want to achieve?
Do you want the striker to hit harder?
 
Trying to wrap my head around this because I've never heard of this as an issue before.
Let's see if I get this straight: Stock is 5#. You want more reliable, so you're asking if a Glock 5.5# has ever been tried by anyone.
This is where I'm lost. That seems counterintuitive. a 5.5 has more resistance than a 5, not less, if I'm thinking about this the right way. If the resistance is higher, doesn't that slow the striker even a little? Why wouldn't you go with LESS resistance instead, like a 4.5# or even a 4?
Interesting question, though.
 
Folks you are confusing a striker spring such as one in a hammer fired pistol. It's function is to retract the firing pin. The Op wants a stronger striker spring that propels the striker against the primer. One problem with striker fired guns is hard primers that are not ignited.

It may be that the striker spring after 3,000 rounds has lost some strength.
 
ok .. gentleman please read the original post again there's nothing on the post that says I want to go with a lighter trigger! I already changed the striker spring to a brand new 5 lb m&p striker! the problem is with some! not all! ammo....example: I will shoot 50 rnds of Brand x ammo that has harder primers.... and 1 or 2 will fail to ignite.... so I go back has anyone here used the Glock 5.5 lb striker spring? .... or even better yet has anybody had any cons with the 6 lb m&p striker spring????? reason: being when you increase 1 lb weight on the striker spring.... you also increase 1 lb of rate on the slide going forward, stripping a around with the existing 18 lb recoil spring!!! any cons?
 
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I have several thousand rounds thru my MP and never had any ammo issue. I also never modify the internals.
As such, my only question would be why alter a component if the problem is (potentially) a certain brand/type ammo; and not just change the ammo itself?
 
Kiki,

I understand you. Some competitor on here may have tried different striker spring rates—heavier for better ignition of hard primers, but not so heavy that your trigger pull weight is made much heavier. Unfortunately, your desired answers are not appearing. I assume this is not primarily a self defense gun? I think you may just need to resolve your questions on your own and then share with us.

Also I appreciate that the ammo availability situation today may not allow you the luxury of switching brands, especially if you’ve had to buy a 1,00-round case of stuff that has some hard primers.

Given the low cost of springs, I’d order both the 5.5# Glock and the heavier M&P 6# and try them.

I doubt the increased striker spring rate will translate to a corresponding direct increase in trigger pull weight. It might slightly slow forward slide travel, as that is when the striker spring is compressed. I doubt this would effect your recoil springs as they have a broad enough range to cover such a small change. It’s worth trying.

Trying the 6# spring could give you some options, if you are not afraid of clipping one coil at a time to tune it the way you want it. Order two—one to play with.

Good luck.
 
He's looking for an "extra power" striker spring. Some ammo, like Tula have hard primers that may not ignite with a single hit.

I've seen posts in other forums that use the Glock 6# spring from Wolff.
Didn't know the Glock spring fits the M&P but not too surprised.

However, some of them claim that the issue was with the older strikers and the new ones are more reliable. Those that were reporting light strikes claimed an new striker assembly fixed it.

So a question I didn't see, are you experiencing light strikes or just trying to get ahead of it?
 
hello.... once again thank you to all those who have been helpful... it is strictly a range gun... but regardless it's a gun I wanted to go bang! God forbid i ever need to use it! and no I don't have the problem all the time! I don't have a problem with standard American ammo or even self-defense! but was trying to solve a problem by going to a stronger striker spring. I find that some of the European ammo that you find sometimes comes with harder primers... with that said with my other m&p's.... I pretty much stick to HST, golden saber, hydroshock 1, etc etc
but if it worked across the board I would replace all my striker springs to 6 lb or so...
 
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Kiki,
I'm sorry, it was hard to understand it during the first few post.

I think you may consider finding simple solution before messing with spring weights.

I agree with sheppard - "It may be that the striker spring after 3,000 rounds has lost some strength."
There can be also other reason for light strikes, beside the spring. The whole striker assembly contains several parts and all of them have to be in perfect condition to eliminate light strikes.
Additionally please make sure the striker channel is clear and dry, plus the red buffer is also in good shape.

I'm just trying to find any ammo that would give me "failure to fire" with my original 5 lb striker spring... and I cannot recall single one.
 
hello.... once again thank you to all those who have been helpful... it is strictly a range gun... but regardless it's a gun I wanted to go bang! God forbid i ever need to use it! and no I don't have the problem all the time! I don't have a problem with standard American ammo or even self-defense! but was trying to solve a problem by going to a stronger striker spring. I find that some of the European ammo that you find sometimes comes with harder primers... with that said with my other m&p's.... I pretty much stick to HST, golden saber, hydroshock 1, etc etc

but if it worked across the board I would replace all my striker springs to 6 lb or so...
I hear ya man, because I couldn't turn down Wolf and Tula 9mm at 16 cents a round and I have had issues with a handful of them with light primer strikes. I had probably 5,000 rounds through the pistol and was issued a striker assembly from the folks at Smith & Wesson, and since that day I haven't had any issues that I can recall. Granted, I do use the Apex sear, the Apex striker block, as well as their other trigger that's not flat but replaces the hinge trigger. Seeing that the striker is usually held at 99%, I couldn't imagine that the aftermarket internals were causing the issue, especially since everything was in time properly.

Best of luck to you!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
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