15" Troy Alpha install?

thecatch8

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Anyone have experience swapping out their heavy UTG quad on their 15T? This is supposed to be a direct drop in using the existing standard barrel nut. But one concern, what are we considering standard? I like that it's lighter, FDE to go with my FDE furniture, and that it's modular without all the quads.

https://troyind.com/products/alpha-15-fde

this is standard?
335086.jpg


Nut that is on the 15T:
p_100009657_2.jpg
 
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The top pic is the standard barrel nut. The bottom pic is a barrel nut like many, but not all, free float tubes use. I've actually seen it called "free float barrel nut" in catalogs and vendor web pages.
 
So cypher, will the Alpha work on the 15T barrel nut? On all the installation videos I have seen, everyone is utilizing the nut on the top not the 15T nut.....
 
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So cypher, will the Alpha work on the 15T barrel nut? On all the installation videos I have seen, everyone is utilizing the nut on the top not the 15T nut.....

I think the nut on top is what you would need, but I don't have an Alpha rail... just been drooling over them... but JaPes does!

Many of the rails that I have seen that require a nut other than the standard one include the nut in the kit. You could always give Troy a buzz and see to be sure though.
 
Looks like the inside of that rail is cut where the teeth of the standard nut lock in with it...

51e69ad5.jpg
 
The Troy alpha has a bunch of channels on the inner diameter that lines up with the "teeth" of the standard barrel nut at the 11 o'clock position. Once the rail and receive met, rotate the rail to 12 o'clock position and lock it down with three hex screws (that is if it is a newer Troy alpha rail). I installed the 13" inch, lately I wished I got the 15". Congrats on your upgrade. If you run a Q.D. sling check out the micro Q.D. sling mounts for that rail. Best way to go.;)
 
and of course after reading the Manual, S&W haven't updated their information and still have the old 15T utilizing the Troy rail.
 
The troy Alpha rail clamps down to a stock mil-spec barrel nut via three screws. Easy-Peasy.

Wu-Who beat me to it. :)
 
Okay, I took off the rail, it's basically four bolts and this is what is left:





So you would have to remove the LP gas block and gas tube to remove the nut. Looks like I will be doing some basic gunsmithing.
 
So you would have to remove the LP gas block and gas tube to remove the nut. Looks like I will be doing some basic gunsmithing.

This is why the free float tube that I purchased from another forum member is still sitting in my parts box. I find something else to do every time I think about it. :(
 
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Just a heads up for anyone removing their gas block.....there is a taper pin in addition to the set screws that you have to drive out. From what I have read it is a PITA, but if you lube it up and let it sit it will drive right out. It is taperd, so you have to tap it right to left. More to come!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gv1A9lh0MI
 
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I'm curious. Is the single pin tapered as the two pins found on other M&P-15 rifles with an A2 front sight post?
 
Not sure....I would think so. I'm waiting on a new wrench and vise block tool to get shipped so I don't jack up my existing barrel nut and twist the upper and barrel. If you look at the taper pin, you can see that one end is slightly wider than the other, so obviously you would want to tap from the smaller end out with the fatter end protruding first.
 
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