Can I remove the flash hider from my Sport II myself, or do I take it in?
- Thread starter Jaguar75
- Start date
Pisgah
Well-known member
If you're the kind of guy who needs his wife to get the lid off a pickle jar, take it to someone else...
Well that stinks. ThanksThe flash hider is pretty easy to remove but without a vise to hold it securely you'll need a couple of friends with gorilla hands to hold it ..
Skeptic 9c
Well-known member
Strap wrench around barrel, properly fitted wrench on flash hider, insure you know which way to turn it, relatively speaking.
Geoff
Who begs you not to use a screwdriver in the holes and notes the crush washer should be replaced, not reused.
Geoff
Who begs you not to use a screwdriver in the holes and notes the crush washer should be replaced, not reused.
apollo99
Well-known member
There is a tool that holds the upper in place, it is like a magazine that goes into a vise, than a star like protrusion goes into the barrel where the bolt fits in, that tool will properly hold the upper, and stabilize the barrel. Than a proper size wrench will take off the flash hider. Not trying to rain on the parade, but much can go wrong without the proper tools. Cracked or warped uppers occur. If it's a one time deal take it to a gunsmith, if you plan on doing it a lot buy the magpul tools.
jhnttrpp
Well-known member
Oh that's mean.
I'm not necessarilly recommending this to the OP, but back in the day me and all my USMC buds used to just grab the front sight post, and torque the things off with a big flat head screw driver, and back on, the same way (and, we even used the same crush washer!! ).
That's not to say this wasn't a big screw up in some way (like wrist-flipping a cylinder closed on a revolver), but back then, and in the decades since, I (and several freinds) have never had or observed a problem.
).That's not to say this wasn't a big screw up in some way (like wrist-flipping a cylinder closed on a revolver), but back then, and in the decades since, I (and several freinds) have never had or observed a problem.
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Rastoff
US Veteran
I think you're on the right path, but your description isn't correct and could cause problems.
There are two specific clamping devices for an AR. The first goes in the mag well and gives the user a block to put in a vise. This only for working on the lower and should never be used when torquing on the barrel because it could bend/break/crack the lower receiver.
The second is an Upper Receiver AR-15 Action Vise Block Clamp and looks like this:
It is two parts. The one part goes into the receiver in place of the BCG and supports the upper receiver so it doesn't get crushed in the vise. The second part goes around the upper receiver and gives you a flat surface to clamp to. Assembled and in a vise the whole package looks like this:
If you plan on doing any work on the upper, this is a good tool to have. This one is about $20. It makes life a lot easier.
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bamashooter
Well-known member
I realize you're in a bit of a tight regarding a vise, etc. If you have a table, counter top, etc, this vise is very strong and tight. I have multiple bench vises out in my shop but use this (have 3 of them around my shop and house) frequently. I'm still surprised how affordable and well made this is. Though it's only w/ 3" jaws, it works quite well on firearms. Very tight tolerances (no jaw wiggle / slop) and smooth jaws. Shop IRWIN 3-in Clamp-On Vise at Lowes.com
If you google "homemade barrel vise" you'll find other options.
homemade barrel vise - Google Search
Good luck.
You should have a friend with a bench and a vice. If you have a front sight base, you can clamp that in a padded vise to hold the upper while removing the muzzle device.
Curious why you need to install a thread protector?
hdwhit
Well-known member
Yes, it can be done. But without having done it before and without a bench, vise and a fixture for holding the rifle, there are few good ways to get hold of the barrel and adequately restrain it that doesn't run the risk of something bad happening. The M&P-15 is still a several hundred dollar rifle and there's no point in risking it for the few dollars a gunsmith would charge.
Moe Mentum
Well-known member
Take it in, be done with it.
CAJUNLAWYER
Well-known member
Totally disagree. Why would you counsel the poster to pass up a perfectly sound opportunity to buy more tools??? We're men damnit! We buy $200 worth of tools to do a one time project rather than actually pay someone $35 to do it for us.
Add another option to the mix, even if you don't have a vise, you can use either of these to hold the clamp block to the edge of any table/workbench
Irwin 12" One-Handed Bar Clamp/Spreader, Medium Duty 1964718 | Zoro.com
![url]](http://[url=https://www.zoro.com/irwin-bar-clamp-12-cap-3-14-throat-depth-1964718/i/G5478490/]Irwin 12" One-Handed Bar Clamp/Spreader, Medium Duty 1964718 | Zoro.com[/url])
Bessey 6" Wood Handscrew Clamp, 3" Deep HS-6 | Zoro.com
tried to insert pics, but failed, dunno how, I guess.
Irwin 12" One-Handed Bar Clamp/Spreader, Medium Duty 1964718 | Zoro.com
Bessey 6" Wood Handscrew Clamp, 3" Deep HS-6 | Zoro.com
tried to insert pics, but failed, dunno how, I guess.
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No, he's talking about a Geissele Reaction Rod...better than
either of your suggestions for torquing barrel nuts, muzzle
devices, etc.
Edit: Learned somethin' new--the Magpul BEV block is *exactly*
what apollo99 described. Still better than the mickey mouse receiver
clamshells, and a lot cheaper than the Geissele rod.
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Kadonny
Well-known member
Simple flash hider remove? Do it yourself with a friend and you'll be done in 1 minute.
