So, I've had my gun for a few years now and thought I was cleaning it correctly after every range trip, however some of the things I've seen on this site are making me question that. I use a fair amount of Gun Scrubber both in / on the barrel and slide, as well as all over the trigger area, and clip area. All the scrubbing with an old toothbrush, barrel brush. I then spray a light coat if oil on the springs, in/on the barrel and slide. I get the impression however that people here don't recommend Gun
Scrubber especially on the synthetic / Plastic parts. Am I not cleaning correctly? If Gun Scrubber is bad what is recommended?

Gun Scrubber is advertised as being safe for plastic -- and since most pistols today have a lot of plastic in them, we can assume they've done their homework. But the real test is - have you seen any damage from that product over the past several years?

There are lots of different cleaning techniques, and the one that gets the results you like is the best one for you! I like to use specialized cleaning fluids (lead and copper remover) for the inside of the barrel, along with bronze wire brushes, to remove copper and lead fouling. I don't know how good a job your preferred product, Gun Scrubber, does on copper or lead deposits in the grooves of the barrel; you need a flashlight to look in there to check. For other surfaces, especially any place where gun parts have friction or contact with each other, its a matter of cleaning until you see the powder residue/grit and caked lubricant is removed to your satisfaction. I am a bit of a fanatic on keeping the rails clean, and use Q-tips and pipe cleaners to make sure the rails are clear of all grit.

The other aspect of cleaning is going after places you generally don't see -- but know that problems can arise if they are not cleaned from time to time. The striker, sleeve, and spring on the SD should be removed maybe once every 2000 rounds or so, and the striker channel should be cleaned out and left pretty much dry. The extractor can get buildup grit/oil inside the hook, and a pipe cleaner or a tooth pick are great to keeping that area clear, to prevent the extractor from not adequately catching the bullet rim. The trigger group and sear need to be cleaned from time to time, but it is generally okay (and a whole lot less trouble) to clean them without taking them apart -- I tend to wipe off grit, soak them with a squirt of CLP, and then drain or blow out the excess cleaner. Excess oil (e.g., CLP) on assemblies tends to attract and hold dirt.

It is a good idea to occasionally disassemble and clean your magazines. Oil and grit can cause the springs or the follower to bind to the sides of the magazine body. By removing the floor plate, the whole internal assembly can be removed, cleaned, and lightly oiled. #1 problem to avoid is re-assembly with the spring in backwards, or attempting to put the follower in backwards.

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S&W Rover

Well said S&W Rover!

in my experience:
FTEs are usually caused by build up at the extracter (a lil lube at the pin helps too)
FTF/light strikes are usually caused by build up in the striker channel (i tend to find a lot of brass bits in here)

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~isaac