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Old 05-21-2024, 11:02 AM
Balvar24 Balvar24 is offline
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I'm new and somewhat unfamiliar to the more recently made 1911 models, but have an opportunity to buy one at what seems to be a decent price.

No box. It's all stainless. Full size. Serrations on the slide front and back. Adjustable sights similar to whats available from the factory now. A serial Prefix of JRJ. It has a solid trigger. Looks to be shot very little and has mostly handling wear. Solid trigger makes me think it's been modified?

Is this something I should stay away from or gravitate to?

Last edited by Balvar24; 05-21-2024 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 05-21-2024, 11:34 AM
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I'm not aware of any factory version that had a solid trigger, but if there was, someone will be along shortly to correct me.

As a person with "compact" hands, I have frequently had shorter triggers installed on my 1911s. As long as it's properly done, I don't see any reason to shy away from it. Make sure you check it over thoroughly, of course. You don't want the trigger pull to be too light, heavy, gritty, creepy, etc. Make sure the hammer doesn't follow when the slide is released, or that the hammer can be pushed off. Cock the hammer, engage the safety, pull the trigger hard, then disengage the safety. The hammer should stay cocked and the trigger pull should be normal.
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Old 05-21-2024, 11:41 AM
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Keep in mind that stainless on stainless can gall. Make sure that it is well lubricated. Read up on stainless galling on 1911s before you purchase.
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Old 05-21-2024, 12:04 PM
SnidelyWhiplash SnidelyWhiplash is online now
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I doubt if galling is an issue anymore...at least not with S&W. In the early years of stainless guns it was definitely a problem. Early stainless self-loaders from smaller companies suffered from it.

Colt and S&W solved it in different ways. Colt heat treated the slide and frame differently and S&W used two different grades of stainless for the two halves. Each was a different way of solving the same problem. A light lube is all that's necessary as it would for blued ordnance steel.
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Old 05-21-2024, 12:06 PM
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I have a few S&W 1911s, and all have been flawless and incredibly accurate also. All of mine remain stock except the grips on occasion and as far as galling my first year billboard stainless steel has just over 35,000 through it and there is no difference as the pistol is still just as tight as it was new and I still have to use the plug wrench to disassemble.

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Old 05-21-2024, 12:14 PM
Balvar24 Balvar24 is offline
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I had the same thought about smaller hands. I've got big mitts. The guy is asking $625.
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Old 05-21-2024, 01:38 PM
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Pictures make all the differences when wanting an opinion.
S&W have made several 1911's
The two most under valued 1911's in the world.
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Last edited by 03hemi; 05-21-2024 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 05-21-2024, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offrdmania View Post
Keep in mind that stainless on stainless can gall. Make sure that it is well lubricated. Read up on stainless galling on 1911s before you purchase.
Hahaha, stainless galling on handguns has not been a problem since the late 1970’s. You realize the 5906, 4006 and 4506 are all stainless on stainless, right?
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Old 05-21-2024, 02:28 PM
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i will shy away from 1911swiyh unknown history because so many people think they are gun smiths . All replACEMENT PARTS must BE FITTED TO THE GUN . bubba WILL CUSTOMISE A 1911 AND HAVE PROBLEMS AND END UP SELLING IYT BECAUSE IT IS A PIECE OF **** BECAUSE OF WHAT HE DID.1911S are good guns but you need to learn and shoot 1 before you jump into the game. Sounds that you are on the right track by asking some questions here.
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Old 05-21-2024, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
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I had the same thought about smaller hands. I've got big mitts. The guy is asking $625.
It’s hard to go wrong at that price
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