I am talking to Novak about redoing my S&W 1006.

It all started when I was looking through GunBroker and saw an interesting ad on there.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=193609804

It is a 4546 with a Novak rail added on. I went to Novak's site, and saw that they put it out in stainless steel (also aluminum and carbon steel), just like that pistol. I also was going through their pages and noticed they have a 1006, just like mine (adjustable sights), that has Tritium adjustable sights. Seeing that, I shot them an email about those two things.

Anyways, I did take my time and noticed a few other packages that I am interested in. I will likely do the reliability package, which includes feed ramp polishing, extractor adjustment, check chamber/breech face, and test fire for function. I have been considering their duty action trigger job, but I really don't have a major need for a trigger job. It works good enough for me as is, but I will consider it. They don't seem to mess with lighter springs, but say the double action pull will be smoother, and single action will be crisp.

But due to the fact that I have a few different magazines (total of 10), I am going to look into deburr/polishing of my magazines (they also number them). Some are a pain in the *** to lock into the gun with the slide closed, so they might be able to do something with that. Since my gun has a few spots that it is polishing itself, I may look at bead-blasting the entire gun. It should also match the rail with the gun, and likely get rid of that "Caution: Refer to instruction manual," warning.

When I get a response about the sights and rail, I plan to ask more about the stuff listed in the past two paragraphs. I just wanted to get some feedback on their work. If anyone has done the reliability package or duty action job on a 3rd Generation, please let me know how it changed the gun.

my 2cents.

if your gun is running 100% reliable...why mess with perfection.

if you are planning on getting the rail....an area to consider:

carry, what holsters are available...likely none and will have to go custom.

you said some mags are hard to install with the slide closed. might be due to newer or + springs. might want to check with all springs stripped to see how lengths vary which might be an indicator of easy vs hard to insert.

but dont let me discourage you, I just want to suggest some dollar savings if you are not having any issues.

I'll take any input I can get...

I bought the gun because I always wanted a 10mm... but I did have a desire to carry it, at one time. However, it is heavy and ammo costs too much. Not selling it, so it has turned into one of my guns that I'll pull out from time to time (like my 629, and the compensator for my Beretta 92).

Having a gun like that, I would like to make it stand out from the crowd. Every once in a while, I run into someone that has another S&W 10mm, and nine times out of ten, it is a gun that is almost identical (once or twice someone has had the shorter pistols, but not as much as I see 1006s). I was looking to pick up a Luger and build it up into a range toy, but due to tolerances of them, I figured that the 1006 is a better thing to invest in. I have a 9mm Beretta PX4 (my dedicated range gun) on its way back from plating, along with my LCP. The only other guns I'm sending out for work are my home defense 870 Police and my no-lock 642... which are both going to Robar. The only other thing I'm considering is a Mini-G, but I'm not planning on it any time soon.

I have always wanted to go with night sights on this pistol. Trijicon always listed their adjustable sights for the 9mm/.40 models... but after looking at part numbers, I'm believing that the rear sight part is the same on those as well as the .45/10mm. I could swap them out (rear, at least), if that is the case.

The rail isn't a need, but I have been getting them on most of my new pistols. For that gun, it would be nice... and I could consider it as an option for a night-stand gun (with the night sights, as well).

The gun does have a few polished spots on it, so it would be nice to give it a cleaner look. I'd really just want the rail to match the rest of the gun, and if I could lose the slide warning, I'm more for it (don’t even have a manual to refer to ). The two packages, more for the fact that the gun would be there, so just let them work their magic. I never had a gun worked on like that... being my Berettas have always been setup by myself (I don't polish or modify hard parts, just springs; shooting has always done enough in those regards).

When I bought the gun, I stocked up on magazines. They all have had the white followers added, as well as Wolff springs. I want to say they are the 5+... but could very well be 10+. So, that may be the cause. I am unsure about the Novak work for them. I may just send the bodies to CCR for cera-plate, if I decide to do anything with them ($200 worth of work in either event). That plating has worked well on other magazines in regards to ease of insertion/dropping, since it is self-lubricating.

I also wanted to expand on this...

Out of ten magazines, six lock in perfectly (empty) with the slide closed. Three take a little bit of effort, and one is just a complete pain to lock. With that being said, I don't have to be really forceful with the three... but that one will only lock like that if I slam it home. All have the same springs and followers, being I rebuilt them as I picked them up.

The six good ones are labeled ES (3), ES1 (1), and MS1 (2). The three iffy ones are ES (1) and ES1 (2). The really tough one is ES1. Considering that, I did rebuild three or four back in a last group when I purchased them. So, maybe they are not worn in as the other six.

So, I think I'll just shoot more and see what happens.

screwball,

I am not trying to argue with you but offer some information to what may not be a magazine issue.

most semi auto pistols are designed to lock back on an empty mag and then install a fresh mag and get back to "work".

there tolerances on most of the same products (which means some mag bodies may be taller/shorter or different height mag catch slots) and this is what you might be experiencing with the mags.

its best to range test for carry and any culprit mags are left for range use only, but if this gun is for CC or duty use...you will start out with a loaded gun and if everything works ok, it is in your favor that the slide will lock back on an empty mag and inserting a mag on a closed slide is a possibility but if you rule out an iffy mag...then more the better.

train gross motor movements and mag inserts should be with authority that way it will not matter if the slide is forward or back, one insert and then rack the slide (or slide release lever if you train that way and the slide is locked back)

on the range (Officers) its common to see mags fall after the first shot or they get a "dink" because a round was not chambered due to weak mag insertion.

again, my two cents. have fun with your ten