Hey guys, I found and purchased a 39-2. Came with original box and paperwork. Looks like it has not been shot to much. I love the gun and have been watching for one so when I saw it at my LGS I picked it up immediately. So I thought due to the age I would replace/change the recoil spring, hammer spring, and I also replaced the magazine spring. All original type springs except for the Wolf magazine springs at 5% more power. I took it out to the range and it is jamming approx. every 3 shots. It will partially extract the empty shell and try to feed the next cartridge and is jamming in that position. It did seem to get better towards the end of my 100 box of Winchester FMJ 115gr. target rounds. The box says approx. 1123fps for those. I checked with a gun smith and he said that I need to break in the new springs with a couple of hundred rounds. Any input/feed back will be appreciated. Do 39-2's usually run good and not jam? Thank you in advance!

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I had a similar problem and changed recoil/guide rod spring and magazine spring all with factory new. Problem went away instantly. I'd keep shooting it and figure it out, because their awesome single stack pistols and are great shooters. Good luck....

That's a nice pistol. I put a new recoil spring in mine and so far haven't had any issues. Let us know what happens or what you decide to do.

If the gunsmith examined your 39-2 and deemed it necessary to run it in as opposed to replacing springs and/or whatever, then go with that run-in suggestion.

However, one can get a matched (balanced) set of springs from Wolff Gunsprings (Wolff Gunsprings - Firearm Springs for Semi-Auto Pistols, Revolvers, Rifles, & Shotguns) and replace your 39-2's various springs, including the one inside your magazine. I keep a spare set on hand for each of my S&W models, but I think nothing of tearing down a gun, too. Wolff does a good job of explaining the spring rates, too.

Personally, I can't speak at all to the new polymer-based handguns (though I do own a couple, come to think of it) but that a steel-and-wood gun is new and needs a run-in isn't unusual.

Generally considered one of the most accurate semi-automatic handguns ever built, the 39 series needs that run-in as much for the barrel alignment as anything else. Remember, please, that while we tend to think of a barrel as the bore (or front of gun) if one takes a cleaning rod and commences to clean, one finds it runs all the way to the breech area. And what's directly beneath?

A ramp that's connected to (made from) the same piece of metal as the barrel, breech, bore and etc.

That ramp's interplay with the magazine is important. As it "loosens" it'll feed better and you'll also see improved groupings on a target.

Of course, one doesn't call it a barrel at the point where empty cartridges are supposed to yield to the new, but the idea is that if one looks at a barrel as having an imaginary line running through its center point, then that line extends indefinitely.

That same plane interacts with the magazine and its flow.

As much as people like a "tight" gun, that idea of tight really doesn't apply to the same degree in an automatic, though I wouldn't go with "sloppy," either.

Once your 39-2 loosens up, it's likely it'll be putting a magazine's worth of rounds within a 1.25-inch area. Not too shabby (though a revolver can do better).

If you want to achieve that grouping, then take the process methodically. Bing (or Google) "semi-automatic run-in" or something similar and find an expert's suggestions. Read a couple or three to get some good ideas and then follow those directions. Indeed, I'd expect someone in this forum has long ago posted a great set of run-in instructions.

There are a couple of other things you might do, but I expect there are other forum members who'll add their thoughts, too.

It'll take some time, but that 39-2 is worth it. Really.

Put the original factory springs back in the gun and try it again. Unless it was fired a lot the original springs should be fine. Some early 39-2s had issues with the extractor. The armorer solution was to replace the extractor and spring with the "final" design type with a small punch mark on the top.

Thoroughly clean the chamber, put the original springs back, and make sure the extractor is not chipped or broken. If you still have problems, try replacing the extractor.

FWIW I replaced the magazine springs with the Wolf +5% for my H&K P7M8 and immediately had feed issues. The issues went away when I used factory standard springs.

The gun companies spend a lot of hours and money figuring out how to make their guns go bang every time. When you start messing with after market springs and parts don't be surprised when the gun has problems.

Yes I am going to put the factory magazine springs back in and try again. I will keep everyone posted on how it goes. Thanks again for all of the replies.

Best of luck, csdmann, break in is the first thing to try. You probably have nothing more than a new (unused) tight pistol.

I've had 39s and the successor pistols since 1974 and the early ones were sometimes a little rough at first. Also, in those days your best bet was always FMJ, HPs couldn't handle the ramp.

You have to keep in mind that 9mm ammo was very primitive in design, and all the guns on the market were designed for FMJ. American production 9mm ammo is mild compared to the foreign stuff, maybe try some European if you can get some?

Don't forget to lube that baby! Also, try running with all the original springs.

Excatly. And why change it in the first place if the gun wasn't fired much?

I recently picked up a rarely used very early model 59. Took it and shot it right away and it cycled great. Ordered new springs for it to be safe and when I installed them I had the exact same malfunction problems. Put oem back in and no problems since. The factory does it right.

I would try the original recoil spring & try it. I would try firing cycling single rounds. Is the extractor broken or damaged? Early M39s were prone to extractor problems. Are the rails properly lubed... officers who used evaporating WD40 were known to have malfunctions due to short cycling. My M39-2 has always fed & extracted perfectly with any load... but modern loads may be weaker than old.

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Very unusual for a stock 39-2 to malfunction. They will routinely feed empty cases (when doing malfunction drills). I agree to replace springs with factory, use known ammo, and enjoy boring reliability. Still my favorite auto pistol, "obsolete" or not. Carried one as a police officer in preference to 5900 series guns.

I fail to understand why people think that they need to change out the springs on a new acquisition....I run the original springs until they won't work any more and THEN replace. them with original springs again.....

But I am probably the odd man out on this..........

i am shoot it before you change anything guy. put the springs back in and shoot it to see if anything is wrong.

Yes, I have put all original springs back in the gun. I am planning on taking it out on Tuesday morning and see how it goes. I will post the results. I seem to think that it is the magazine springs I put in. They were the Wolf 5% extra power springs and I have read a couple of guys say that they caused the same issue.

Agreed. Good luck and keep us informed.

I would check the feed ramp for machine marks. I had these on my 39. Polished the feed ramp with fine emory cloth and a wood dowel. Never jammed since.

I am more inclined to blame the recoil spring before the magazine springs. I replaced the recoil spring on mine recently because I bought it used many years ago. I also replaced the magazine springs with +5% and it is functioning beautifully. I was getting a few FTE's before. Maybe one out of every 3 magazines.

Also, make sure your thumb is not touching the slide when you shoot.

Ok guys took the 39-2 out this morning. No jams at all! Gun runs great. What an accurate shooting gun!! It made me look good today. Now I just need to spend some time shooting it so I can get the jamming out of my head. Not sure if it was the magazine springs I replaced or the recoil. What I don't understand still is that I ordered a replacement recoil spring from Wolf specifically for the 39-2 and why would it jam? Is it because the spring is tight and needs to break in? Anyways I am happy now. Thank you again for all of your feed back and help.

Glad you got it running. Is one end of the recoil spring smaller in diameter than the other. If so, I believe the small end goes on the guide rod first.

Someone on here was having similar issues and pointed out to check the orientation of the ends of the Wolff recoil springs. Narrow end on the guide rod first.

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Alot of the reasons people change out the springs is due to the police turn ins, it gives you a solid base to start from most of the time. It works great most of the time. Glad you got yours running.