So I'm contemplating getting another 4566TSW and although I'm definitely not a BMCM Jedi master, I am pretty good with hand tools. So if I get another one, I'll do some very minor stuff but the question is this......should I leave it in it's original stainless finish or send it off and have it melonited? The billboard on the side doesn't really matter and I do kinda dig the WVSP 4566TSW's. So what do you folks think?

Your gun , your call . It's not like the gun is 1 of 50 or less . 'I' could do without the billboard on all my tsw pistols.

If it comes out looking like the one in post 7 of this thread, I would say yes!
S&W 3rd gen 45 Auto pic thread

Just some stuff to think about;

I'm uncertain how the billboard will appear after meloniting. The billboard is essentially done by cnc laser welding and I'm quite certain the markings come out much harder than the surrounding steel. I base this on slides that I've completely wiped such that the markings are gone that when bead blasted the billboard re-appears. So, I really don't know how the laser marks will look post melonite. Might look ok or maybe not. Perhaps the shop doing the process might know.

If you want the frame done too and the gun has a scabbed on rail, it will have to come off. Those rails are aluminum and won't fare well in a bath of 1100°F molten cyanide salts. So you can either have the rail riveted back on post process or, have the shop weld up the holes pre-processing.

And my recommendations;

Only send those parts that you want melonited. Completely strip the frame and I mean pull off everything, Magazine latch and even the sear spring. Same drill on the slide. Pull the sights, extractor and everything else. Take the plunger out of the slide stop too There are certain parts you just don't want going in a molten salt bath, springs for one. The process does cause a small amount of surface growth too such that very close fitted parts like sights and retaining pins can be fused in place. That's why I recommend complete detail stripping. Plus if you do the stripping & prep work you should wind up saving a few bucks on the bill since the shop "go-fer" doesn't have to. At least that's been my experience.

Include a letter with detailed instructions on exactly what you want done. Even if you've talked with the shop on the phone include a letter anyway. Keep in mind you're not the only guy the shop is dealing with. And, on that letter list individually each single part you send.

Like so:

"Included are the following components for Isonite QPQ treatment.

1. S&W 4566TSW frame serial nr: TTTxxxxx (stripped)
2. slide (stripped)
3. barrel
4. M/S safety
5. Ambi lever
6. Extractor
7. Slide stop (stripped)"

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Thanks Boats, that was my plan, completely stripping the frame and slide and just sending those two, the extractor trigger, hammer, safety and slide stop assuming that MIM parts can handle the temps. I know you had a bunch or your parts done on one of your projects, did you send in all the steel parts and were you satisfied with the work done? I wasn't aware of the possibility of the billboard coming back. I wonder how it would look if it did, maybe pretty cool. I plan on sending it to Coal Creek Armory since I've heard that they're really good. Thanks for the info.

How soon do you plan on doing this ?

Yup, Coal Creek did all my stuff. I did all the prep and sent only the stripped parts. All the bits listed in my example above are what I sent.

Regarding the billboard, I've had it become visible again with glass bead blasting. That might not be so if blasted with a cutting abrasive like aluminum oxide. I wonder also what it might look like after meloniting , perhaps a subdued shadowy billboard might look nice. If you plan on wiping the slide just be aware the logo might become visible again after treatment. I think if the billboard is in good shape now and you leave it alone it ought to come out all subdued black and visible if turned to the light at the right angle. Best to check with the shop and see if they have any experience with laser etched marking being melonited.

I have no idea how MIM parts will react to meloniting. You'll need to ask the shop about that too. Honestly, unless I was absolutely certain the process is safe for the MIM parts I wouldn't risk it. If it's for cosmetic reasons, I'd just get some new replacement parts. MIM parts are already black anyway. A quick sniffin' about of the internet seems to indicate it's a bad idea.

Coal Creek did a fine job on my stuff and I've heard only good stuff about them from other folks. The only issue I had personally was their shop "go-fer" lost my extractor. That lad got canned and they made good, sourcing and fitting a new extractor before returning my parts.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Haven't decided if I'm gonna get another 4566TSW yet, lol

I was thinking the same thing about the billboard, kinda like a stealth police car. I'll definitely ask about that and the MIM parts. I remember your extractor incident, yours was nicely rounded and a stock one was sent back. Nice to hear that the shop made it right. So I guess I'll get another TSW and see what happens.

Well unfortunately, Coal Creek Armory has closed it's business

Under new ownership and a new name.
Knoxville Firearms Training | Firearms Training Courses Knoxville | Knoxville Gun Instruction

Seems they still offer the service otherwise, I know nothing of the new operation. Folks on the TN gun owner forum seem to agree it's a change for the better.

Cheers
Bill

__________________
Because they don't make a .46

Thanks, Bill! I was getting worried because after 3 hours of searching I didn't find anyone else who did meloniting.

A Melonite 4566TSW would be one sweet carry 45. Especially a rail free example!

Please let us know how it turns out! Regards 18DAI

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7 +1 Rounds of hope & change

Oh Yeah! ... Thanks for planting that seed
Here we go again

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

You are an evil man. I like how you think!

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Can open, worms everywhere.

And he's influencing others, too. I wonder if anyone does meloniting near me...hmmm.

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Lounge Lizard Extraordinaire

Oh, I can see it now........

Well I went and got one off of GB. Looks kinda worn but that's what I was looking for. I'll have it in a week or so and I'll take a bunch of before and after pics. Sorry 18DAI, the rail will go back on since I prefer to have a light on the gun. So we shall see.......

Well if you're dead set on having a rail on there, here's the one I'd use:


True picatinny interface so you wouldn't be stuck with only the one Streamlight model that has an adapter to fit the S&W rail. The whole of gadgetry that can go on a p-rail is now your's for the messin' with

would only need a bit of hand fitting where it meets the trigger guard.


Contour fits the S&W dust cover perfectly.


I was toying with this idea a couple years ago for the frame that eventually became my SSV when I was exploring options on what to do with the holes in the dust cover. I decided I like the holes best erased rather than covered with a rail.

As I recall, two of the bolt holes will line up with the Smith. A little fitting and either you or have a pro bolt & weld it in place then the whole works can go in the salt bath.

I think what I'd do is set the bolt's in place ( have to drill the middle hole) tack weld the bolts on the inside of the dust cover. Then weld a very fine bead around the outside perimeter of the rail just to seal it up and keep moisture/junk from creeping under there and causing a weeping rust stain issue.

Cheers
Bill

__________________
Because they don't make a .46

Now that's a helluva an idea. I like the Novak rails, have em on two of my 1911's. Problem is I don't have a welder. I will, however, ponder the idea between now and when I ship it off. Thanks for puttin an idea in my head, Boats. Things that make me go hmmm

Or, I can just use two holes. I'm sure I can find the necessary rivets or screws.........

It comes with hardened alloy steel fasteners. Special low profile socket heads to not obstruct the rail. As I recall before I welded up my frame, the two frame holes would line up with the rail ok but the center rail hole would need to be drilled. All three holes would need to be tapped. I don't know about you but, having a vacant hole in middle of that rail would drive me nutz! Easy enough to just bolt the thing in place with some cheap #8 machine screws just to hold it in alignment then mark the middle hole with a transfer punch.

Anyway, the frame holes are countersunk on the inside so you wont have the full thickness of the dust cover for the screws to bite into like on a 1911 frame install. That's why I suggested fixing the fasteners in place with a bit of weldment. Simple matter really to give'em a little zap with a tig torch. Something to discuss with the shop perhaps? It's a "no brainer" for any competent gunsmith IMO.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Well, I picked her up today and upon further inspection I discovered some interesting things. I stripped the frame down to inspect the internals and although there are some light surface scratches, the insides were immaculate. There was literally no wear on the sear, drawbar, hammer or sear spring. If it wasn't used I'd swear the internals were new. It has the smoothest trigger I've ever felt in a 3rd gen, no annoying clicking in the trigger, single action trigger reset feels like a 1911 and very positive, DA pull is smooth through the entire stroke, no stacking with a super crisp let off. Lock up is as tight as a bank vault. There are some scratches on the bushing that I'll clean up and some very light burring in the typical spots. Rail is trashed and needs to be replaced, night sight barely glow but do, even the MIM trigger, slide stop, hammer and safety show VERY minimal wear. Overall it appears to have been carried more than shot. Looking under the left safety lever while it's down, it appears to have the milled area for a decock only assembly. Tomorrow I'll strip the slide, touch up a few things and wait for Monday to call Coal Creek Armory or whatever it's called now days. I'm happy
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