I have a 1006, 1076 and a 5906. All in VG condition but certainly shooters. Any reason not to use Flitz if I want to shine them up? I also have a 622, does flitz work on that? Photos to come later, sorry.

Thanks
Frank

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Just so long as you're not overzealous, it should be OK. Flitz will remove bluing if used too much, and will remove cold bluing fairly easily, so if there are any touched up areas, you may need to retouch them afterwards. And again, don't get carried away. On stainless, it's a little different. While it won't hurt stainless, it will make a matte finish shiny, so if you are using it on a matte, you may encounter problems with maintaining a consistent look.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

What's the best product to use on stainless ?



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Vietnam Veteran, 68-69

I've used Flitz on S&W stainless revolvers with the stock "tumbled" stainless finish, to remove scratches, but you have to be very careful with it! It works too well sometimes! It can create a shiny spot, incompatible with the rest of the revolver, in no time. It can also smooth out the crisp roll marks on a gun, lessening the appeal and probably the value.

You can gingerly use Scotchgard white or gray pads (from an auto parts store) with the Flitz to carefully create that light swirled or tumbled finish. (Do not use Scotchgard green pads; too abrasive).

I would not use Flitz on any gun with a beaded finish, e.g., a 5906, nor would I use it on any aluminum finish (since they are coated with a clear lacquer). Nor would I use it on a "blue" or blackened (melonite or armornite) finish, for fear of wearing it off.

Finally, it is not a bad polish to use -- carefully -- on a bearing surface of a trigger part. It will remove metal, so you have to be very careful, but it can bring those surfaces to a very smooth finish.

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S&W Rover

Yeah I would like to know too what to use. Heard Flitz can be a bit abrasive. Only thing I have used on blue or stainless is a Remington cloth which contains Rem. oil and rust inhibitors or a silicone cloth.

S&W Rover pretty well covered my sentiments regarding Flitz. I like the product very much, but it can be damaging if not used judiciously.

I have no problem using Flitz on just about any stainless steel gun including all my 3rd Gens. However, I ONLY use it one time when I first get the gun, and when they are usually pretty dirty. It works great as a cleaner. I use only my index finger to lightly clean the whole gun with a gentle swirling motion. I don't even try to remove deeper scratches as this will result in a shiny spot. When used this way, it does not alter the original finish of either Matte or Satin finishes. HOWEVER, if you put just a little muscle to the process it will EASILY alter the factory original finish. Some folks like Mothers Mag Polish. I've used both but I prefer Flitz. When you are done with the Flitz or Mothers, give your gun a coat of Renaissance Wax.

Now, with that being said, if I found an old beater of a gun like a LEO trade in, that was all scratched up and pretty sorry looking, I'd be inclined to do some more serious polishing.

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Now, wait a minute. The 3rd Gens are either blued or anodized. Wouldn't the Flitz take the anodizing right off???

3rd Gens were either blued carbon steel, aluminum alloy or stainless steel frames.. and the OP's question is about the stainless framed 3rd gens.

Yes.. Flitz or any other abrasive polish cleaner should not be used on an anodized metal.

In fact, S&W specifically warns against that on revolvers with the titanium alloy cylinders, they have a protective anodized coating to prevent flame erosion on the cylinder face... while titanium is a high tensile strength metal, it is a soft metal, so it needs that protective coating.

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

I use a Flitz polish cloth only in my gun kit for cleaning the fingerprints off of all my handguns and rifles as well. I do NOT add anything on to it at all and it works extremely well just as it is for my guns.

My "go to" lubricating, penetrating, everything product is GIBBS BRAND for everything I work on. I purchased a 16 oz aerosol can of it many years ago. That can lasted 17 years for
me because I used it sparingly. I purchased a 12 can order recently and have givenmany to friends and relatives. Working on old firearms with a bit of rust with a bit of GiBBS and 0000 steel wool and then wiping them down with a cotton cloth or a paper towel you will be amazed at what is picked up. Even on a newer firearm. My favorite contact for ordering is Billy Grubbs.
1-800-659-2421. Also [email protected]
Evryone will be amazed if they use this product on any of their firearms with just a soft white cotton cloth. Spray it on the cloth and rub down a barrel. Think you will be amazed what you find on that cloth. Worth the purchase of just one can.

You would be amazed at how well a regular kitchen green Scotchbrite pad works. Just a few drops of gun oil then polish away. It actually pretty closely maintains the factory stainless finish. I used a Scotchbrite on a well worn LEO 4046 and it looked brand new.

Thanks guys. I have a mint 66-1 and was warned no flitz. I appreciate all of your feed back on its proper use.

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I felt silly for a second. Then I went back and looked and OP doesn't specify, actually. No matter, you're right, I assumed anodized aluminum because that's what I have,

Seems like the question has been well answered now, whatever OP's frame type.

Having been down this path myself, I'll just link to my old thread (which links to even older and better threads) for anyone interested and/or future reference. If you scroll down a few postings I went through the process I used successfully on a 3rd gen.

Guide to finish repair / refinishing Stainless 3rd gens?

On stainless steel I recommend using a Birchwood Casey Lead Removal Cloth.

You can also use it for cleaning the bore and cylinder holes.

They can be found at Cabelas stores,on Amazon and on ebay.

Cabelas was the cheapest of the three.

Midway sells there own brand of lead removal cloth very cheaply but IMO the BC is superior.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

Only the slide on the 622 is stainless, the rest of the pistol is aluminum. The silver finish (which I'm assuming is some sort of anodizing) on the frame should not be polished, you will simply strip the finish off of it.

I have a Model 60 stainless that I intend to keep for years and pass down to my son. It's mine and I really like shiny. I don't really care if it affects the value so I do with it what I want. Flitz is what I use and I've really NOT gone overboard. Just a nice shine. Now I'm also adding ren wax to the process and I like the final look even more. It's all in what you want to do with your guns. If you want a safe queen in pristine, original condition, that's OK. Some of my guns are like that. Whatever floats your boat.

What about on parts? I have 2 spare 1066/76/86 barrels that have some surface rust. Thanks numrich! I'd like to clean them up and coat them in oil or something for long term storage.

You'll get 20 different answers from 20 different people when asked about storage, but I'll supply some verification of my favorite, Rig. Several years ago, Gun Test magazine ran a special on the protective qualities of everything available at the time. The absolute best was tried and true cosmoline. Second to it was Rig grease. Given the nature of cosmoline, I leave it to the government and preppers burying guns for Armageddon. Every kind of oil you can use is susceptible to gravity, and unless you plan to store the barrels in a jar full of oil, it will eventually run off. Newton proved this when he sat under a tree and quart of 10w-30 fell on his head, nearly killing him and the theory of gravity in one fell swoop.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Newton had a heck of a headache when that qt fell on his head I suspect. Even the new plastic bottles will hurt if they fall far enough.

Sorry for the confusion, my question was how to shine them up to their original condition? Fritz or is there something better? On a side note I just got a 1006 barrel today from midwayusa and its in even worse condition than the ones I got from numrich. What the heck, it almost looks used.

I've got some Lead Away cloth, I will give it a try.

BTW Lead Away cloth and I would guess others, really work well on barrels that have leading.

Solomon's post and pointers give some really good techniques using Scotch Brite pads on stainless.

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Vietnam Veteran, 68-69

The lead removal cloths turn black as soon as they are used but they keep on working until they run dry or you wear them out.

On my SS revolvers they take out the turn rings and remove the cylinder burn marks.I rub in the direction with the grain/machining.

I've never used anything else to make SS look like new.

When I buy a used revolver I 1st soak it in #1 Kerosene for about a week(grips removed) then after blowing it out I get to work further cleaning and replacing parts while making it look pretty.Sideplate screws,tension screws,ejector rods and grips are what I most often replace on shooter grade purchases.

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