0W-20 SYNTHETIC OIL???

[Autonomous]

My garden tractor runs Kohler 10W-30 oil engineered for air cooled engines in a dirty environment. No catalytic converters to deal with so it has a good ZDDP package.
My outboard motor runs 10W-30 or 40 FC-W oil. FC-W is built for four stroke water cooled engines in a marine environment. As outboards run cooler than car engines and are used on the water, they have strong anti-corrosion additives. Some FC-W oils are marked catalytic compatible which means very little ZDDP. As my outboard has no catalytic converter I buy FC-W without catalytic compatibility.

 

[BC38]

The difference is, you can still work on a '64 GTO with common tools but can't do anything on a 2025 (vehicle of your choice) without special tools and a computer.

What special tools do you need other than a $40 OBDII code reader?

 

[SMSgt]

All the ones needed to fit the special OEM fittings and such. A 3/8 and 9/16 wrench won't hack it anymore.

 

[BC38]

All the ones needed to fit the special OEM fittings and such. A 3/8 and 9/16 wrench won't hack it anymore.

Like the ones for the quick-disconnects on transmission lines, fuel lines, etc?

Those are nothing new - they've been around since the 1980's and the "special tools" for them are even cheaper than a code reader.

Or are you talking about something else?

FWIW, I've always done all the repair work on my own vehicles, and even occasionally do work on other people's vehicles, and so far I haven't run into anything too expensive or difficult.

Though I will admit I haven't worked on anything built in the last 5 or 6 years. At least not yet...

In my experience the toughest vehicles to diagnose and repair are the ones built from about 1985-1995. That's the period when carburetors, points and condensers were being replaced with electronics, but before the automotive industry had implemented standards like OBDI-OBDII.

Those were the days when every manufacturer had their own proprietary fuel injection and electronic ignition systems. It was kind of the wild-wild-west period of automotive technology.

But, with the implementation of industry-wide OBD standards in about 1995, most of the issues with needing "special" tools specific to each vehicle manufacturer pretty much went away. The systems, and the tools to work on them became much more standardized.

At least that has been my experience working on vehicles for the last 50 years or so.

 

[ridewv]

It's not about " Tighter tolerances " , etc. 0w-20 oil yields a slightly better fuel economy which is critical to conform to CAFE standards .

This is my understanding as well. In the US when new cars are tested through the all important EPA MPG cycle they gain just a bit of gas mileage with thinner oil. But the same oil viscosity that the manufacturer puts in the engine to run the EPA test must also be what they spec in the owner/service manual to be used in the car. They can't spec 5W-30 which might be better for engine wear long term, then fill it with 0W-16 to run through the EPA MPG test. So manufacturer marketing simply spec thin oil for cars they sell in the US to show a slightly higher number on the sticker.

In the US, Toyota specs "only 0w-16 oil be used" in my 2019 Toyota Corolla HB 2.0 engine. "If unavailable you can substitute 0w-20 but must have it replaced with the specified 0w-16 as soon as possible".

However for the same Corolla sold in Australia with the exact same M2A-FKS engine, Toyota engineers spec a whole range of oil viscosities depending on the anticipated temperature it'll be driven in. (Just like how it was always done in the US).

It states "0W-16 is filled into your Toyota at manufacturing, and is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If you use 10W-30 or higher viscosity in extremely low temperatures, the engine may be difficult to start, so SAE 0W-16, 0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30 engine oil is recommended.
A chart is then referenced which shows all the 4 viscosity above (0W-16 through 5W-30) being suitable from -25f to 100f and 10W-30 suitable from 0F and up.

 

[Golddollar]

You had to use high quality plug wires with that ignition module or you could lift the hood at night and watch blue fire run across the plug wires with the engine running.

Believe me, he isn't kidding!

 

[Oldengineer]

I recall years ago viewing the viscosity curves of Mobil 1 with their Ford account engineer and the 0-20 verse 0-30 were nearly identical, with the difference being at high temperature. Remember that the lowest friction is with the most conforming area - think tight clearance.

Tom H.

 

[ACORN]

What special tools do you need other than a $40 OBDII code reader?

ABS scanner, passive restraint scanner, electric brake scanner plus a good diagnostic computer, for starters.
Some new cars need an electronic device to change oil.
Easily could run multiple thousands of $$$.
We ain't in Kansas anymore Toto.

 

[biku324]

^^^Plus enough specific information to understand 40-60 sensors on the 5v dedicated circuit, which ones matter, and how to locate an intermittent bad sensor or plug/connection.

Don't buy vehicles that have been submerged.

 

[larry8]

The very best oil you can use is Amsoil Signature 0-W20 which is the undisputed champion by every oil specialist, race car driver and car aficionado. The downside is the price! Second best and 95% as good is Penzoil ULTRA Platinum (not the regular platinum). It is made from natural gas and is excellent at 1/3 the price. The best filter is Amsoil as well. Forget about what they told us about oils 30 years ago - 100% full synthetic is now the best there is for new vehicles.


Today's fuel efficient oil is as thin as water but chemically far superior to yesterday's kind.

Absolutely true, but a lot of guys think Mobil 1 is 100% synthetic which is not. There are only 4 oil manufacturers that make 100% synthetic and Amsoil, Penzoil, Royal Purple (don't remember the 4th one). However I have used Amsoil since they started making it till last year. Now I use Penzoil Ultra Platinum. If you try the Penzoil Ultra Platinum you won't ever go back to Mobil or any other oil. With the Penzoil you will get better mileage and more power from your engine. Order it from Amazon and they deliver it to your door.

 

[SMSgt]

When I lived in the interior of Alaska where temps remained sub-zero for months, 0-15 Mobil One was the oil of the day. I even ran it in my Yamaha 3-wheeler and it ran fine at -25. I did have to preheat the carb with a hair dryer to get it to start though.

 

[DWalt]

It is also a good oil for cleaning and lubricating guns. Very similar to CLP..

 

[Dave.357]

Remember thin oil will go where thick oil won't.
Tight tolerance = thin oil.

 

[BloodyThumb]

Back in the early 80's we put 20W-50 in our Camaro. It worked great 1/4 mile at a time!

 

[ACORN]

Now days the only 20w50 I sell is to a Harley rider or someone with a beater with low compression(read; oil burner).
Even 10w30 isn't so big of a seller.
I have a customer with a new Indian M/C that I had to order Amsoil 15w60 for.

 

[biku324]

'02 Silverado, 5.3, 424,000 miles, Pennzoil 10-30 and a filter every 4000 miles. One oil pump and one timing chain is it on the engine.

 

[65-2x2]

My care is another 0-20, but I also use it for all of my other household fixes including guns.