10-2

[Rpeter]

have a 10-2,.38 S&W spl. Nickle or stainless. Has 31177 with an 'S' on swingout. end of grip has C523904. what year is it, and approx. worth.

Thanks for any help, Randy

 

[moosedog]

What's it worth?, don't know, can't see it?
Should be mid to late 1960's. Could be refinished or any number of issues, but it can't be stainless.

 

[JP@AK]

The C number on the butt is the serial number. This revolver likely left the factory late in the year 1960. I show a nearby number that shipped in December of that year.

The finish would be nickel. No Model 10 was made of stainless steel.

Barrel length and condition will have the most significant effect on the price. At this point, we know neither. How about a few pictures?

 

[Jack Flash]

S&W didn't market stainless steel handguns until 1965, so it would have to be nickel. Besides, as has been stated, if it has "M 10-2" in the yoke cut, it couldn't be stainless.

In decent condition, it should retail for $400 +/- depending on barrel length, exact condition, original stocks, etc.

 

[Rpeter]

picture

one picture

 

[H Richard]

Welcome to the S&W Forum, I see the picture, and it appears nickle plated. If that is an original finish. The grips are not original, which is a negative, and the finish appears dull, which is a negative. This is a 2" snub nose, which is a positive. If it is mechanically good, and the barrel and chambers are clean (not rusted or pitted) the $400 est may be a little high, but not too much. A good cleaning and if you want to bring out the shine of nickle, you could polish it with a soft cloth and Flitz, or one of the other metal polishing pastes. Rub gently,old nickle finishes can be a little thin.

 

[Jack Flash]

The Tyler T-Grip (grip adapter) also is a plus. Add to that, snubs bring a premium, at least they used to. I'd like to hear price estimates from other forum regulars.

 

[target tech]

10-2s were only made for two years I think. The nickle and 2" RB is definitely a plus in value to a nickel collector. Find a set of diamond grips for it, and I'd call it a $550 gun.

That's my -2cents

 

[JH1951]

In my neck of the woods, assuming good bore & chambers, and no finish damage, and good 'mechanics', it would not sit long at $500.00.

 

[Rpeter]

Grips

How do I know what wood grips to purchase? Model K,L,J,or N?

Thanks, Randy

 

[Beauetienne]

K Frame grips.

 

[Hapworth]

How do I know what wood grips to purchase? Model K,L,J,or N?

Thanks, Randy

The Model 10 is a K-frame; this one's a round butt.

Not any grips will do if you're thinking of getting more money on a sale; factory correct grips, which would have been checkered magnas with diamond cuts in the center, tend to cost a bit, and they still won't be numbered to your gun.

If you're planning to sell, probably better off as-is; if it's a keeper and you want it all original, then find the magnas.