10-7 Question

[larry169]

Need your opinions if you don’t mind. I have a shot at 2 different 10-7’s. First please note I love Nickel S&W revolvers. My small nickel collection currently, 36ND snubby, 10-6 HB 4”, 15-3 4”, 19-2 2.5”. All are in Excellent condition or very close to. Also one blued 19-4 4”, one stainless 686-2 4”. My current options, a 10-7 4” blued, no box, no papers, just the gun but it is in Very Good almost Excellent condition. I’ve got him down to $425 at LGS last week, stopping by again tomorrow, trying to get him down to $400. Option 2, a 10-7 almost NIB, with original box, papers, tools, but starting bid is $925. It’s on GB so with fees, shipping, it’d be over $1000. But, it’s a beauty IMO and would fit nicely in my nickel smith collection. So opinions, is $1000 to much for the nickel one. Is $400-425 an ok price for the blued one. Thanks in advance for your opinions.

 

[Billyham2168]

This is my 10-7 4” factory nickel

 

[Billyham2168]

I personally think $1k is too much even for a 686 but I do think that $600 for one in the condition that mine is in is reasonable even though I don’t have the box and paperwork

 

[Billyham2168]

Note the N on the cylinder (Factory Nickel)

 

[413Maxwedge]

I can't see paying $1000. My 10-7 snub was in the $600 range which is high for such a common gun, but it was the nicest example I could find at the time. It's one of my favorite revolvers now and a great carry gun.

 

[Ameshawki]

$400 to $425 is a good price for a clean Model 10 in today's marktet. $1,000 is nonsense, even if it's nickel NIB.

 

[YouveHadYour6]

As others have said, the blued one at 400-425 in good+ shape, definitely.

However, a 10 series of most any sort going for 1K or better, even in nickel, better have not only box and docs but some mighty fine, detailed paperwork backing it up as having been a special order for someone of extreme importance or the like - even then, with odd exceptions, I'd see that as a hard gun to ever get your money back on, even in a few (or many) years. YMMV.

 

[Frailer]

If it were me, I’d buy the $425 one. But you’re not me.

I agree with those who say $1K is too much for a Model 10, but the question is whether or not it is worth $1K to *you*.

If you are really itching for a minty nickel 10-7 with all its original goodies paying a premium might be worth it, considering it’s probably going to be a while before you see another one.

I like a bargain as much as the next guy, but I’ve reached an age where time is becoming increasingly valuable. Money, on the other hand, is just money.

 

[Dino44]

I think your already on the road to an expanding collection. The blue model 10 is a good deal at $400 to 425 OTD in my neck of the woods. I also agree that a $1K investment in the nickel gun is quite high, even if it fits into your niche. I would hold out for another that is more reasonably priced. Especially if you're willing to go the GB route. Another one will surely turn up in the future. Perhaps, even in a gun store near you, with no shipping of transfer fees.

 

[Kansasgunner]

I do like my shiny nickel 10-8. And it’s a great shooter!

 

[VaTom]

SCSW 4th Edition lists a “premium” for a nickel Model 10 on page 204 under pricing variations. Doesn’t give a % number. The price in the OP post seems high. It took me 3 years to find my 10-7 nickel 4” at a price I wanted to pay. Bought it 9 years ago at a great price of $300. No box or papers. Period correct grips but not numbered to the revolver. I am partial to nickel as I carried one as a LEO in the 1970s-80s. Good luck with your search - nickel one are likely harder to find than blued.

 

[dobegrant]

I am a shooter so I would choose the $425 one and shoot it.

 

[Legendarylawman]

Picked this up this summer at auction for about $600. And I shoot it.

Carl

 

[Ameshawki]

Nickel has never been my thing but of the thirty or so Tens (and variations) I have two are nickel. A five inch Detroit PD that I snagged about twenty years ago for $250-ish and a four inch 13 I got a couple years ago for mid $600 range. No box on either. I think the only other nickel I have is an old Iver Johnson top break. Don't see a lot of nickel guns in this market.

 

[MajorD]

$400 to $425 is a good price for a clean Model 10 in today's marktet. $1,000 is nonsense, even if it's nickel NIB.

Agree a grand for a model ten is outlandish ! I myself prefer ones a bit beat up and rough, as it helps the price and I shoot andcarry them so they are going to develop character marks over time anyway. I have a mechanically excellent great shooter grade 10-5 I picked up in the last 6 months for under $300. Nothing to look at but shoots great which is what I care about
I have never cared much for nickel or stainless, but my most shot handgun is a nickel model 34-1 2” square butt. Hesitant to buy as I really wanted blue, but I waited 6+ years to find an affordable 2” square butt.

 

[larry169]

Ok guys, I got it. I want to thank you all for your opinions and comments. All of you leaned towards the blued one, and honestly I was too. I really want the nickel one but the $1000 just said no. Like one said, I’ll just wait for another one in nickel to come around for a more fair price. It took 3 visits to my LGS to get them down on price but I did get it for $400 + tax. No other fees. I do have a couple questions if someone can help, the manufacturer date. Serial number is 5D141XX. Also, I’m aware of the hazards to the forcing cone of shooting too much full load 357, and 110gr / 125gr ammo in my 19-4. Does this model 10 have the same issue with the 110 & 125 grain vs the forcing cone, or should I only be shooting 158gr. Lastly, is the gun rated, or safe, to shoot 38spl +P factory ammo. Thanks again for everyone’s input.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

Well, $1,000 does sound high, but you should get on some auction sites and see what such guns are going for.

I had a nickel Model 10. It was a tack driver. I called it my "twitch gun" based on a line from the old Miami Vice TV show:

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...dace3e3853c26574a9ae1017b6bc2b4d&action=click

That is the URL for the five-minute scene I referred to.

There must be a copyright on there, but I can't find it. Sorry, moderators.

 

[Legendarylawman]

Well, I think you did very good. I think I paid 350 plus auction fees for this one, so about 450 all in. I have since swapped the targets out for some correct vintage magnas. And, it's a pre-10, so a bit older than yours. And it was refinished at some point.

I have no problems shooting any weight normal performance ammo in all my 38's. But, then I have now gone to wadcutters, which are lower in vel, etc. I don't shoot +P's in any. Yet. I have a 38-44 that I is going to be my big bang revolver.

Someone will comment on the +P+ ammo. I have no imput on those.

Enjoy your new revolver,

Carl

 

[VaTom]

4D-6D serial numbers are 1979 according to SCSW 4th Edition. Fixed sight K frames are regulated to shoot point of aim with 158 grain. Lighter bullets will shoot somewhat lower as I understand it. Don’t know about forcing cone question. Can handle +P but for regular target shooting I would use standard velocity .38 special. As a LEO with Model 10s we qualified and trained with standard velocity and carried +P as duty ammo. A light polishing with flitz and then Renwax will make that bluing shine.

 

[larry169]

light polishing with flitz and then Renwax will make that bluing shine.

I’m sorry to have to ask but are these the two items you’re recommending. I couldn’t find “Renwax”, at least not on Amazon. Also are these good for nickel guns also. Which is better, Flitz or Mother’s

 

[ChoochGambino]

I’m sorry to have to ask but are these the two items you’re recommending. I couldn’t find “Renwax”, at least not on Amazon. Also are these good for nickel guns also. Which is better, Flitz or Mother’sView attachment 819198

Mothers

 

[VaTom]

Yes that’s RenWax. The Flitz I have used came in a tube like toothpaste. Have to use it lightly. Yes it works on factory bluing as well as nickel. The picture of my nickel M10 previously posted was a little dull in places and I used the Flitz then RenWax treatment. I used it on this 1974 Model 15 that needed cleaning after I bought it at an auction.

 

[billybob44]

I’m sorry to have to ask but are these the two items you’re recommending. I couldn’t find “Renwax”, at least not on Amazon. Also are these good for nickel guns also. Which is better, Flitz or Mother’sView attachment 819198

Yes, you have the right stuff there==Use Flitz--Mothers can be TOO AGRESSIVE on some finishes..Bill.

 

[billybob44]

Mothers

For ME--I only use mothers on the cylinder face of Silver revolvers to remove the "Ring", when I want to dress them up..
I DO watch my pressure when using Mothers--Can take off some of the finish..Bill.

 

[TN_Raven27]

@larry169
Was the nickel one on GB an active auction, or one of those with too high of a starting bid that doesn’t sell? If the latter, try contacting the seller to make an offer, especially if the gun has been there a while and cycled through a few auction cycles. If the seller is an FFL, you can find their direct contact info. I’ve had mixed results doing this, but may be worth a try if you still want to go after that one, too.

 

[larry169]

@larry169
Was the nickel one on GB an active auction, or one of those with too high of a starting bid that doesn’t sell? If the latter, try contacting the seller to make an offer, especially if the gun has been there a while and cycled through a few auction cycles. If the seller is an FFL, you can find their direct contact info. I’ve had mixed results doing this, but may be worth a try if you still want to go after that one, too.

It’s still there, on GB. Has a BUY NOW for $950, or starting bid at $925. I don’t think he’s an FFL since he’s only had 17 feedbacks in 12 months, all positive. Has 6 days left on the auction. I could try your suggestion, but what’s a fair price, I wouldn’t probably have a problem with $700 but now that I’ve purchased the blued one I’ll probably just hold off a while. Gotta buy the wife and grandkids Christmas presents

 

[Tom Garrett]

Need your opinions if you don’t mind. I have a shot at 2 different 10-7’s. First please note I love Nickel S&W revolvers. My small nickel collection currently, 36ND snubby, 10-6 HB 4”, 15-3 4”, 19-2 2.5”. All are in Excellent condition or very close to. Also one blued 19-4 4”, one stainless 686-2 4”. My current options, a 10-7 4” blued, no box, no papers, just the gun but it is in Very Good almost Excellent condition. I’ve got him down to $425 at LGS last week, stopping by again tomorrow, trying to get him down to $400. Option 2, a 10-7 almost NIB, with original box, papers, tools, but starting bid is $925. It’s on GB so with fees, shipping, it’d be over $1000. But, it’s a beauty IMO and would fit nicely in my nickel smith collection. So opinions, is $1000 to much for the nickel one. Is $400-425 an ok price for the blued one. Thanks in advance for your opinions.

I always thought the break over point from pinned to non pinned was the -7. I’ve got a -6 in nickel. Great shooter, easy to clean up. First one is a pretty new to me 64 in stainless. The other 2 are of my -6.

 

[model70man]

I am an old man now, and I realize I passed on some overpriced S&W revolvers because the prices were too high. But...I never saw the ones I wanted again. If it were me, if it were something that I really liked, I would go ahead and buy it. You only pass through this life one time. Thank you.

 

[rwsmith]

I'm of no help because I'm a shooter not a collector and the only nickel gun I own is an heirloom. I would much rather have the blue at $425 than a $1000 nickel gun.

 

[YouveHadYour6]

To go back to the OP's last questions for a second, by this era of the 10 the metallurgy was pretty much fully worked out and the gun should be quite capable with +P loads, or most any factory .38 Special loading. Lighter bullets will generally have a slightly lower POI since as others have mentioned, the 10 is regulated for 158 grn ammo. That said there are some very quality loads out there for S/D in this weight, just my opinion of course. The plethora of standard velocity defense ammo out there should perform fine as well. A LOT of light bullets at +P velocities over a good deal of time will wear the forcing cone more quickly, but in reality if kept to SAAMI specs you should be fine for many, many years.

I reload .38 to about 725fps these days in 158 LRNs and mostly use that for practice, but also have some Heavy Duty .38 'Outdoorsman' from Buffalo Bore for hiking trips in the wilder country; the 10 jumps a bit more with those but they sure do still go where I point'em!

Glad to see you added that blued one, hope it serves you well for many years to come.