10mm Load - could i be going nuclear?

[2003flht]

Shooting from a S&W 1086.

I'm working up some loads for this gun. Powder is AA #7, Federal primers, 180gr Magtec FMJ/TC & Seirra 180gr HP Game masters.

I started with 9.5 grains and worked up to 11.0 grains. No pressure signs except that may brass is traveling pretty far. I have ordered a 22lb spring from Wolf for that. But i was wondering if anybody has worked loads up to 11 grains using AA #7. My manual calls for a max of 10.7 grains.

Am i safe at 11.0 of AA #7? Or am i reaching 'nuclear' loads for my 10?


Thanks
Tim

 

[2003flht]

Shooting from a S&W 1086.

I'm working up some loads for this gun. Powder is AA #7, Federal primers, 180gr Magtec FMJ/TC & Seirra 180gr HP Game masters.

I started with 9.5 grains and worked up to 11.0 grains. No pressure signs except that may brass is traveling pretty far. I have ordered a 22lb spring from Wolf for that. But i was wondering if anybody has worked loads up to 11 grains using AA #7. My manual calls for a max of 10.7 grains.

Am i safe at 11.0 of AA #7? Or am i reaching 'nuclear' loads for my 10?


Thanks
Tim

 

[Skip Sackett]

Whether your are safe at a certain load is unknowable, friend! Some people aren't safe at any load!

Where are you getting your data for your loads? Here is some data from the older Accurate Arms data.

SPR 180 JHP No.2 6.7 1037 No.2 7.4 1178 36,700 1.250"
No.5 8.3 1069 No.5 9.2 1215 37,000
No.7 10.3 1084 No.7 11.4 1232 36,600
No.9 13.1 1135 No.9 14.5 1290 32,600

HDY 180 XTP No.2 6.1 986 No.2 6.8 1120 34,300 1.250"
No.5 7.8 1053 No.5 8.7 1197 36,800
No.7 9.6 1041 No.7 10.7 1183 35,300
No.9 12.2 1093 No.9 13.5 1242 34,100

RAN 180 HP No.2 5.3 947 No.2 5.9 1077 35,400 1.260"
No.5 7.9 1037 No.5 8.8 1179 36,300
No.7 9.9 1051 No.7 11.0 1195 36,200
No.9 12.1 1086 No.9 13.5 1235 35,500

RAN 180 FP No.2 5.5 967 No.2 6.1 1099 36,400 1.260"
No.5 7.9 1025 No.5 8.8 1165 33,700
No.7 9.9 1041 No.7 11.0 1184 34,000
No.9 12.1 1087 No.9 13.5 1236 34,200

Do you have a chronograph? Where the brass lands is a poor indicator of velocity.

 

[DonD]

If you're concerned enough to ask that question on the forum, seems that discretion (using less powder) might be the best course.

The added velocity you get at the expense of possibly significantly more pressure isn't worth it.

If the 10mm doesn't have the power that you want at near top end loads, go to a more powerful round, don't try to make it do something it can't. Don

 

[2003flht]

unfortunatly, i dont have a chronograph.

I got my data from Hornady's 4th edition. it was for a 180gr XTP though. 8.6-11.0gr AA #7 @ 1150fps.
Also, I have the new Accurate data. 9.6-10.7gr AA #7 @ 1183fps & 35,300cup(?)

Like i said, i see no signs of pressure. even the cases measure the same at the mouth of the 11gr & 9.5gr fired cases. Primers are not flat, still rounded at the corners.

Just want to make sure i aint over doing it! LOL!

I have been reloading .357, 38spcl,44mag, & 45acps for 20 years but this is my first with the 10mm.



Don,
I'm not trying to get the 10 do something it cant. I was just working up a load. But i DO want to get the 10mm potential.

If i want more power... i take the 6" Anaconda out to play!

 

[DonD]

Not trying to be a smart a-- here, I don't doubt that you've reloaded regularly.

The problem is that in reality there are few reliable visual signs of overpressurized rounds.

People will tell you to measure case head expansion, look at primers etc but when the signs are certain, you're already WAY over.

I've posted this before but it is worth mentioning again. John Linebaugh, a highly regarded gunsmith and shooter said that he has had big bore revolver rounds running 70,000 psi, wildly overpressure, just drop out of the chambers in the cylinder. No pressure signs.

So, unless you have pressure testing gear, don't exceed load levels recommended by reputable manuals. If in doubt, go lower. Just my opinion. Don

 

[2003flht]

Thanks Don... I'll drop the charge just to be sure. I figure that 10-10.5 grains should be safe.

Even with a chronograph though, could you actually know when pressure is to great? I mean your just checking velocity of the bullet, not pressure.

 

[Skip Sackett]

Even with a chronograph though, could you actually know when pressure is to great? I mean your just checking velocity of the bullet, not pressure.

Well, you don't get something for nothing. If you are using 11gr of powder and getting 1500fps instead of the 1250 you are supposed to be getting, what would you think? I would think I was a tad overpressure and that there was no need to go outside of data.

I have use that logic in reverse too. It may hold true that way, maybe not. Arguments for both sides of that coin.

 

[2003flht]

Originally posted by smith crazy:

Well, you don't get something for nothing. If you are using 11gr of powder and getting 1500fps instead of the 1250 you are supposed to be getting, what would you think? I would think I was a tad overpressure and that there was no need to go outside of data.

i can see that! LOL!

Thanks again Don.

Just out of curiosity, what does a decent chronograph go for, and what kind should i avoid if i were to buy one?

 

[3five7]

Every pistol is different. I have used well over 11.0 grs AA#7 with 180 gr bullets in my Omegas and Smith & Wesson 10MM's with no signs of high pressure. My Speer #14 manual lists 12.0 grs of AA#7 max with Speer 180 gr Jacketed bullets and an OAL of 1.250". Start low and work up slow and be safe.

 

[DonD]

Good chronos are in the $150-250 range. Oehler, frequently considered the top end has one with pressure sensing equipment. That is a nice idea. Don

 

[M29since14]

But i was wondering if anybody has worked loads up to 11 grains using AA #7. My manual calls for a max of 10.7 grains.

Am i safe at 11.0 of AA #7? Or am i reaching 'nuclear' loads for my 10?

Why press your luck? It is almost impossible to draw any conclusions about pressure at the level most pistols operate at - unless you get considerably above where you should be. There is just nothing that extra 0.3-grain of powder is going to do for you that makes the practice of exceeding published data a good idea, IMHO. You'd be better off, much better off, to go 0.3-grain the other way.

A stiffer spring in your pistol may reduce the distance your gun throws its brass. In return for that, your gun is going to slam into battery just that much harder. A fresh spring of the proper rate can't hurt. Deviating substantially from the manufacturer's spec basically tips the balance in one direction or the other - slam the gun under recoil, or slam it into battery.

 

[wyo-man]

Originally posted by DonD:
Not trying to be a smart a-- here, I don't doubt that you've reloaded regularly.

The problem is that in reality there are few reliable visual signs of overpressurized rounds.

People will tell you to measure case head expansion, look at primers etc but when the signs are certain, you're already WAY over.

I've posted this before but it is worth mentioning again. John Linebaugh, a highly regarded gunsmith and shooter said that he has had big bore revolver rounds running 70,000 psi, wildly overpressure, just drop out of the chambers in the cylinder. No pressure signs.

So, unless you have pressure testing gear, don't exceed load levels recommended by reputable manuals. If in doubt, go lower. Just my opinion. Don

Next time I go shooting with John I don't think I want to be around him with those loads with that kind of pressure......

wyo-man

 

[m657]

My own experience has led me to believe when at that ragged edge of 'maximum load'.....I do better in many ways by simply going up a caliber or two.

I've never had great accuracy OR comfort with a maxed out load, let alone peace of mind. And I've come to enjoy large slow rounds more than smaller faster rounds.

 

[DonD]

[/QUOTE]

Next time I go shooting with John I don't think I want to be around him with those loads with that kind of pressure......

wyo-man[/QUOTE]

I do understand that. Don

 

[n4zov]

My manual calls for a max of 10.7 grains.

For me that is a good indication to STOP! There isn't much to be gained by pushing the envelope by seeing just how far you can go before something breaks. Your first indication that you've gone too far might be a very expensive trip back to S&W or the emergency room.

 

[2003flht]

Originally posted by n4zov:

My manual calls for a max of 10.7 grains.

For me that is a good indication to STOP! There isn't much to be gained by pushing the envelope by seeing just how far you can go before something breaks. Your first indication that you've gone too far might be a very expensive trip back to S&W or the emergency room.

i see your point. Hornady is the only manual i have, but the speer has a max of 12.0 grains. why the difference between manuals, and who should you trust?