13-2 LOCKING UP AFTER THREE .357 ROUNDS.

[jframe]

My 3 inch 13-2 was bought several years ago, and I actually just fired it for the first time today. Supposedly, it was NIB, and I have no reason to think otherwise, as its flawless with not even a turn line. Ran a couple of cylinders of .38+p's with no issues. After 3 rounds of .357 of unknown weight, it locked up; cylinder wouldn't turn or open, and trigger wouldn't pull. Finally got the hammer to cock and fired the remaining 3 single action. More
38's through it, and no problems. Loaded the last six .357's, and it did the same thing again. Any idea what could cause this?

 

[JohnRippert]

Were the .357's reloads. Just wondering how well they were crimped. Maybe the bullets were jumping out of the case a mite under recoil and protruding enough to make it tough for the cylinder to turn.

 

[jframe]

Were the .357's reloads. Just wondering how well they were crimped. Maybe the bullets were jumping out of the case a mite under recoil and protruding enough to make it tough for the cylinder to turn.

Not sure. They were 12 loose rounds I had had for years. Looked well made; brass cases with JHP bullets. I'm like you; thought the same thing. But eventually, the gin could be cocked amd fired single action. Maybe I need to go back with a box of favtory range ammo, and try again.

 

[chief38]

Make SURE your Ejector Rod is tight and has not backed out.

 

[steelslaver]

I would also take a hard look at the primers. Maybe the firing pin bushing is off a bit and they are hanging up on it when slamming into it hard.

Another ting to check is the forcing cone. If a bit small it can peel a tiny bit of copper off that jams up between the cylinder and barrel.

Check the timing of lock up carefully too.

 

[stansdds]

Those loose 357 rounds... are they factory loads or someone's reloads?

 

[AJ]

Curious.......Hopefully something simple.

 

[jframe]

Those loose 357 rounds... are they factory loads or someone's reloads?

Since they were loose and and been in a bag for years, not sure. I am going to go back with some factory, boxed .357 ammo and see what happens.

 

[Big Lou]

Make SURE your Ejector Rod is tight and has not backed out.

Yup. That would be my guess as well.

 

[.455_Hunter]

I purchased a 28-2 in box with papers that had been barely fired. Taking it to the range, I soon found why- the hammer nose bushing was seated too deep and allowed primers to back-out and bind the action. This occured with Magnum ammo, but not .38 special ammo. A local gunsmith was able to correct the problem.

It's something to check on your gun...

 

[steelslaver]

Idf the ejector rod was loose, I do not believe it would go back to firing 38 specials with no problems after the first time it locked up firing the 357s. I tend to believe the cases are slamming back and locking it up. Either the one that fired" primer is sticking in the firing pin bushing or the others are backing out against the recoil shield and the crud from the 38s is causing them to stick and not move back forward easily. But, it usually takes more than a couple cylinders of 38s to cause enough build up to cause problems with 357 cases.

More thoughts. Are the 357 primers flush. A high primer will not let cylinder rotate. With chambers clean, just how much room between 357 case heads and recoil shield. The specs are actual such that a max thickness rim and a minimum amount of rear gauge or head space is 0. In that case it would not take much to tie it up. Do those 357 that cause problems fully seat in the chambers. If not over length brass or slightly short chambers.

 

[chief38]

One other possibility is that more 38 specials were fired then thought and there is lead build up in the front of the cylinder charge holes. While this may not affect 38 specials being shot, the longer 357 cases might be getting stuck on lead in the front of the charge hole. I do understand the OP feels this gun was not fired - but he may not be correct - and as we all know, the factory does fire every other charge hole in a cylinder of 6 to test. Might be a stretch, but a good cleaning with a Lewis Lead remover can't hurt.

 

[ImDrRich]

"Not even a turn line. . . ."

 

[JDinAZ]

One other possibility is that more 38 specials were fired then thought and there is lead build up in the front of the cylinder charge holes. While this may not affect 38 specials being shot, the longer 357 cases might be getting stuck on lead in the front of the charge hole. I do understand the OP feels this gun was not fired - but he may not be correct - and as we all know, the factory does fire every other charge hole in a cylinder of 6 to test. Might be a stretch, but a good cleaning with a Lewis Lead remover can't hurt.

You know. That's a great point. The carbon ring from shooting 38 first then 357 without cleaning is known to make the cases stick.

You might be right on the button. The 357 case could be getting bound up on the carbon ring. Forced rearward by the discharge which makes the 357 case head stick out a bit more. Making it catch on the recess where the ratchet sits back into the recoil shield, at the ramp where the cylinder center pin rides when you close the cylinder

 

[jframe]

One other thing I have noticed since I started paying more attention to this gun is that tge cylinder is hard to open on occasion when the gun is EMPTY. Figure its probably related

 

[slight_turn_line_69]

I have a 5" pre 27 that likes to come loose sometimes, and the cylinder not wanting to open is what usually happens first. OK, so remove the cylinder from the gun. Get a clothes pin, and put that on the knurled end of the ejector rod. Carefully put that clothes pin and ejector rod/cylinder in a vise to hold it from turning. Insert at least 3 fired cases into the charge holes, and attempt to tighten the ejector rod by turning the cylinder. Bass-ackwards of what you've always been taught for your gun. Lefty tighty, righty loosie. Don't get crazy, just snug it up good. You can strip the threads on the ejector rod! Once you're sure it's tight, put the gun back together. Take it to the range and fire a few rounds of factory t'ree fitty seb'n, and see if it works. Then come back here and let us know what happened. Good luck!

 

[John Patrick]

One other thing I have noticed since I started paying more attention to this gun is that tge cylinder is hard to open on occasion when the gun is EMPTY. Figure its probably related

I suspect the ejector rod needs tightening.

I would also take off the side plate and make sure there is no old oil that has turned to varnish. But I suspect it's bone dry. A drop at the front of the bolt and the rear as well as a drop on each end of the ejector rod will help smooth things up.

FWIW, I recently picked up an older 3" Model 66 that was new in the box. First time at the range and the gun locked up… ejector rod had backed out firing 357 ammo. It was a royal pita to open. I have an ejector rod clamp for tightening or loosening. Once properly tightened it's been fine.

 

[cmj8591]

My money is on the ammo. The gun needs to be fired with some factory, known to be in good condition, ammo. If it still binds, then you will need to look at some of the other suggestions in this thread. Of course as a matter of good maintenance you should be looking at things like loose extractor rod, excessive end shake, cylinder binding every time you clean your revolver. But, in this case, I'm gong to bet everyone a nickle that you've got some suspect 357 ammo.