15-22 Performance Center

stevelee24

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can a Performance Center models barrel be fitted to a standard 15-22. i need the gun to be more accurate for hunting but im in the UK so would be easier to switch the barrel then have change the whole rifle.
:confused:
 
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can a Performance Center models barrel be fitted to a standard 15-22. i need the gun to be more accurate for hunting but im in the UK so would be easier to switch the barrel then have change the whole rifle.
:confused:


Yes, but good luck ordering one.

See my thread here. Find ammo that performs better in your rifle. You might find that replacing the barrel won't make it significantly more accurate. Search the forum here for feedback on the performance center model compared to the standard model. From what I've read here, not much significant difference has been seen. Additionally, the performance model has a better trigger, which is an important factor in realizing the accuracy of the rifle. Upgrading the stock trigger on your rifle might yield better results than replacing the barrel.
 
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Yes, but good luck ordering one.

See my thread here. Find the ammo that works better in your rifle. You might find that replacing the barrel won't make it significantly more accurate. Search the forum here for feedback on the performance center model compared to the standard model. From what I've read here, not much significant difference has been seen. Additionally, the performance model has a better trigger, which is an important factor in accuracy. Upgrading the stock trigger on your rifle might yield better results than replacing the barrel.

ok thanks for that mate i took it hunting today and it just would not zero. i zero from 10 yards then tried a few shots from 50 yards and it was about 7 inches off. tried adjusting it from 50 yards but still could not get good groups. and no its not my shooting lol and i was using a bi pod. my friend whos in the royal marines tried but still exactly the same we could not get it shooting accurate

i had a cheap £40 3-9x42 scope on i got from ebay maybe it was at fault im going to try again with a better scope.
i really hope it was the scope and that the gun is really not this bad for accuracy

my gun already has better trigger springs fitted

still got 3 rabbits but was from 30 yards or less i could of had loads at 70-100 yards :(
 
oh

for your gun to be that far off at that range, there would have to be something Seriously wrong. I would bet money it`s the scope.
 
Yes, but good luck ordering one.

See my thread here. Find ammo that performs better in your rifle. You might find that replacing the barrel won't make it significantly more accurate. Search the forum here for feedback on the performance center model compared to the standard model. From what I've read here, not much significant difference has been seen. Additionally, the performance model has a better trigger, which is an important factor in realizing the accuracy of the rifle. Upgrading the stock trigger on your rifle might yield better results than replacing the barrel.

I agree

I'm thinking of switching to a 2-stage trigger when mine comes back from the factory,the groups are small as is, they should tighten up more with a better trigger (The barrel on mine seems to love the 40 and 36 grain stuff)

Is there anyway to put on an A1 length fixed stock ? (I like the 6-position for adjustability,but really like the idea of no wobble on the shoulder)

Also what about extending the rails to better sim. the sight radius of a 20-inch AR?
 
i zero from 10 yards then tried a few shots from 50 yards and it was about 7 inches off.


This is likely the problem. If you zero at 10 yards, you are going to be off at 50 yards. By definition, 'zero'ing means to adjust your sighting system to hit where you are aiming (at your zero distance). By adjusting your scope at a 10yard range, you are setting it up to, well..., hit your target at a 10 yard range.

I zero my scope at a 50 yard range and get the group you see in the picture in my link at 50 yards. If I keep the same setting on my scope and shoot at a 100yard target, aiming the crosshairs at the bullseye, I'm always going to be off target 5-8" depending on ammo. It's simple mechanics and sighting theory.

Also, don't forget that your scope sits a couple of inches above the bore line of your barrel. The closer you get to your target, the more effect this distance above your boreline has on your point of impact. It's most common to zero a .22 at 25yds or 50 yards, not 10yds. At 10 yds, the distance your scope sits above your boreline is going to be an issue. For distance closer or farther than your zero'd distance, you have to adjust your point of aim (POA) to compensate.

If you already know this, I appologize for the basic explanation.

Also, if you are using a centerfire scope, it's likely the parallax is set at 100yds. This means that any movement of your eye off center of the scope will have an effect on your point of impact at a distance other than 100yds. Rimfire scopes often have a fixed parallax of 50yds. Some scopes have a side focus that allows you to adjust the parallax to different ranges.
 
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This is likely the problem. If you zero at 10 yards, you are going to be off at 50 yards. By definition, 'zero'ing means to adjust your sighting system to hit where you are aiming (at your zero distance). By adjusting your scope at a 10yard range, you are setting it up to, well, hit your target at a 10 yard range.

I zero my scope at a 50 yard range and get the group you see in the picture in my link at 50 yards. If I keep the same setting on my scope and shoot at a 100yard target, aiming the crosshairs at the bullseye, I'm always going to be off target 5-8" depending on ammo. It's simple mechanics and sighting theory.

Also, don't forget that your scope sits a couple of inches above the bore line of your barrel. The closer you get to your target, the more effect this distance above your boreline has on your point of impact. It's most common to zero a .22 at 25yds or 50 yards, not 10yds. At 10 yds, the distance your scope sits above your boreline is going to be an issue. For distance closer or farther than your zero'd distance, you have to adjust your point of aim (POA) to compensate.

If you already know this, I appologize for the basic explanation.

when zero from 10 yards we made it an inch high to allow the 1" drop from 50 yards. we then tried to zero from 30 yards and 50 yards nothing worked. went through about 100 rounds just trying.
my guess is the scope is junk, im going to try again with a better scope and hope theres a big improvement.

should the 15-22 be able to hit a soda can from 100 yards ?? is this something its well capable of on a regular basis or have i over estimated what this gun can do. thing is my primary use for it is hunting and when i bought it i thought that was something it was well capable of
 
should the 15-22 be able to hit a soda can from 100 yards ??

I'm just an ok shot. This is at 100yds:

IMG_20110419_084130.jpg


For what it's worth, I shot 50 rds at this same size target at 200 yards. Because of that far distance I had to aim well high off the target at a mark on the rubber backer that I could barely see. After 50 rds the majority of the holes were within the 8 ring.
 
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I bought 3 cheap scopes, none are on the M&P 15-22. 1 of the cheap scopes proved to be faulty, never able to place two shots within an inch of one another. After going back to open sights to verify it was not the gun, I put one of the other cheap scopes on that I had zeroed from another rifle, problem solved. First bad scope I'd ever had, learning experience and one that I am glad I experienced.
 
please explain ive never heard of this :confused:



Too much weight on the reciver (scope weight) and too much pressure on the forend (boy is too strong for his own good).

An example of frame flex was mentioned (and caught on film) by Nutnfancy.

I'm trying to find the vid that shows it...I'll get back to you
 
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Too much weight on the reciver (scope weight) and too much pressure on the forend (boy is too strong for his own good).

dont think its this mate scope is very light and theres no weight on the forend :D
 
Nikon 3X-9X Prostaff scope, bench, sandbag supported, CCI Mini-Mags

thanks that helps alot as i used a bipod and the same ammo with such different results it points even more that the cheap scope is at fault.

quite a relief :)
 
Try it with the irons (no forend tension),then try with a different optic (no forend tension).
 
Does the front end of the scope have visible clearance above the rail? I bought a Bushnell scope and mounted it on my MOE and could not get it to zero at 50 yds. It seems that the scope was touching the front of the rail and putting a tiny bit of upward tilt to the scope. New rings, zero no problem.

Hobie
 

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