15-22 Performance Center

[stevelee24]

can a Performance Center models barrel be fitted to a standard 15-22. i need the gun to be more accurate for hunting but im in the UK so would be easier to switch the barrel then have change the whole rifle.

 

[CPTBeaker]

can a Performance Center models barrel be fitted to a standard 15-22. i need the gun to be more accurate for hunting but im in the UK so would be easier to switch the barrel then have change the whole rifle.

Yes, but good luck ordering one.

See my thread here. Find ammo that performs better in your rifle. You might find that replacing the barrel won't make it significantly more accurate. Search the forum here for feedback on the performance center model compared to the standard model. From what I've read here, not much significant difference has been seen. Additionally, the performance model has a better trigger, which is an important factor in realizing the accuracy of the rifle. Upgrading the stock trigger on your rifle might yield better results than replacing the barrel.

 

[stevelee24]

Yes, but good luck ordering one.

See my thread here. Find the ammo that works better in your rifle. You might find that replacing the barrel won't make it significantly more accurate. Search the forum here for feedback on the performance center model compared to the standard model. From what I've read here, not much significant difference has been seen. Additionally, the performance model has a better trigger, which is an important factor in accuracy. Upgrading the stock trigger on your rifle might yield better results than replacing the barrel.

ok thanks for that mate i took it hunting today and it just would not zero. i zero from 10 yards then tried a few shots from 50 yards and it was about 7 inches off. tried adjusting it from 50 yards but still could not get good groups. and no its not my shooting lol and i was using a bi pod. my friend whos in the royal marines tried but still exactly the same we could not get it shooting accurate

i had a cheap £40 3-9x42 scope on i got from ebay maybe it was at fault im going to try again with a better scope.
i really hope it was the scope and that the gun is really not this bad for accuracy

my gun already has better trigger springs fitted

still got 3 rabbits but was from 30 yards or less i could of had loads at 70-100 yards

 

[geneboy]

oh

for your gun to be that far off at that range, there would have to be something Seriously wrong. I would bet money it`s the scope.

 

[Pfletch83]

Yes, but good luck ordering one.

See my thread here. Find ammo that performs better in your rifle. You might find that replacing the barrel won't make it significantly more accurate. Search the forum here for feedback on the performance center model compared to the standard model. From what I've read here, not much significant difference has been seen. Additionally, the performance model has a better trigger, which is an important factor in realizing the accuracy of the rifle. Upgrading the stock trigger on your rifle might yield better results than replacing the barrel.

I agree

I'm thinking of switching to a 2-stage trigger when mine comes back from the factory,the groups are small as is, they should tighten up more with a better trigger (The barrel on mine seems to love the 40 and 36 grain stuff)

Is there anyway to put on an A1 length fixed stock ? (I like the 6-position for adjustability,but really like the idea of no wobble on the shoulder)

Also what about extending the rails to better sim. the sight radius of a 20-inch AR?

 

[CPTBeaker]

i zero from 10 yards then tried a few shots from 50 yards and it was about 7 inches off.

This is likely the problem. If you zero at 10 yards, you are going to be off at 50 yards. By definition, 'zero'ing means to adjust your sighting system to hit where you are aiming (at your zero distance). By adjusting your scope at a 10yard range, you are setting it up to, well..., hit your target at a 10 yard range.

I zero my scope at a 50 yard range and get the group you see in the picture in my link at 50 yards. If I keep the same setting on my scope and shoot at a 100yard target, aiming the crosshairs at the bullseye, I'm always going to be off target 5-8" depending on ammo. It's simple mechanics and sighting theory.

Also, don't forget that your scope sits a couple of inches above the bore line of your barrel. The closer you get to your target, the more effect this distance above your boreline has on your point of impact. It's most common to zero a .22 at 25yds or 50 yards, not 10yds. At 10 yds, the distance your scope sits above your boreline is going to be an issue. For distance closer or farther than your zero'd distance, you have to adjust your point of aim (POA) to compensate.

If you already know this, I appologize for the basic explanation.

Also, if you are using a centerfire scope, it's likely the parallax is set at 100yds. This means that any movement of your eye off center of the scope will have an effect on your point of impact at a distance other than 100yds. Rimfire scopes often have a fixed parallax of 50yds. Some scopes have a side focus that allows you to adjust the parallax to different ranges.

 

[stevelee24]

This is likely the problem. If you zero at 10 yards, you are going to be off at 50 yards. By definition, 'zero'ing means to adjust your sighting system to hit where you are aiming (at your zero distance). By adjusting your scope at a 10yard range, you are setting it up to, well, hit your target at a 10 yard range.

I zero my scope at a 50 yard range and get the group you see in the picture in my link at 50 yards. If I keep the same setting on my scope and shoot at a 100yard target, aiming the crosshairs at the bullseye, I'm always going to be off target 5-8" depending on ammo. It's simple mechanics and sighting theory.

Also, don't forget that your scope sits a couple of inches above the bore line of your barrel. The closer you get to your target, the more effect this distance above your boreline has on your point of impact. It's most common to zero a .22 at 25yds or 50 yards, not 10yds. At 10 yds, the distance your scope sits above your boreline is going to be an issue. For distance closer or farther than your zero'd distance, you have to adjust your point of aim (POA) to compensate.

If you already know this, I appologize for the basic explanation.

when zero from 10 yards we made it an inch high to allow the 1" drop from 50 yards. we then tried to zero from 30 yards and 50 yards nothing worked. went through about 100 rounds just trying.
my guess is the scope is junk, im going to try again with a better scope and hope theres a big improvement.

should the 15-22 be able to hit a soda can from 100 yards ?? is this something its well capable of on a regular basis or have i over estimated what this gun can do. thing is my primary use for it is hunting and when i bought it i thought that was something it was well capable of

 

[CPTBeaker]

should the 15-22 be able to hit a soda can from 100 yards ??

I'm just an ok shot. This is at 100yds:

For what it's worth, I shot 50 rds at this same size target at 200 yards. Because of that far distance I had to aim well high off the target at a mark on the rubber backer that I could barely see. After 50 rds the majority of the holes were within the 8 ring.

 

[Pfletch83]

Another thing that could be a problem is frame flex.

 

[stevelee24]

I'm just an ok shot. This is at 100yds:

was that from a bi pod, also what ammo was that

 

[stevelee24]

Another thing that could be a problem is frame flex.

please explain ive never heard of this

 

[CPTBeaker]

was that from a bi pod, also what ammo was that

Nikon 3X-9X Prostaff scope, bench, sandbag supported, CCI Mini-Mags

 

[crracer_712]

I bought 3 cheap scopes, none are on the M&P 15-22. 1 of the cheap scopes proved to be faulty, never able to place two shots within an inch of one another. After going back to open sights to verify it was not the gun, I put one of the other cheap scopes on that I had zeroed from another rifle, problem solved. First bad scope I'd ever had, learning experience and one that I am glad I experienced.

 

[Pfletch83]

please explain ive never heard of this

Too much weight on the reciver (scope weight) and too much pressure on the forend (boy is too strong for his own good).

An example of frame flex was mentioned (and caught on film) by Nutnfancy.

I'm trying to find the vid that shows it...I'll get back to you

 

[stevelee24]

Too much weight on the reciver (scope weight) and too much pressure on the forend (boy is too strong for his own good).

dont think its this mate scope is very light and theres no weight on the forend

 

[stevelee24]

Nikon 3X-9X Prostaff scope, bench, sandbag supported, CCI Mini-Mags

thanks that helps alot as i used a bipod and the same ammo with such different results it points even more that the cheap scope is at fault.

quite a relief

 

[Pfletch83]

Found the vid

YouTube - S&W 15-22: "Sheep in Wolf's Clothing" by Nutnfancy

23:23 minute mark on the vid

 

[stevelee24]

Found the vid

YouTube - S&W 15-22: "Sheep in Wolf's Clothing" by Nutnfancy

23:23 minute mark on the vid

watching that vid maybe it is the gun from 50 yards with a scope the groups were very poor

 

[Pfletch83]

Try it with the irons (no forend tension),then try with a different optic (no forend tension).

 

[Hobie1]

Does the front end of the scope have visible clearance above the rail? I bought a Bushnell scope and mounted it on my MOE and could not get it to zero at 50 yds. It seems that the scope was touching the front of the rail and putting a tiny bit of upward tilt to the scope. New rings, zero no problem.

Hobie

 

[tacticool22]

The barrel nut could be loose. If the hand guard is flexing that much, remove the end cap and free float the barrel. You could even put an aluminum AR free float hand guard on.

 

[stevelee24]

Does the front end of the scope have visible clearance above the rail? I bought a Bushnell scope and mounted it on my MOE and could not get it to zero at 50 yds. It seems that the scope was touching the front of the rail and putting a tiny bit of upward tilt to the scope. New rings, zero no problem.

Hobie

yeah its on high scope mounts, im going to make a barrel tool check the barrel is not loose. im going free float the barrel also. and got a good scope on order so no excuses. il let you guys know the results. surley this gun is more accurate than this even though its not really a precise target shooter

 

[Dead eye 22]

OK, This may sound stupid, but being that this is the world wide web, I have to ask this question: Are you, by any chance the Steve Lee who sings "I Like Guns"?

 

[stevelee24]

OK, This may sound stupid, but being that this is the world wide web, I have to ask this question: Are you, by any chance the Steve Lee who sings "I Like Guns"?

haha no mate but ive been asked that before

 

[Dead eye 22]

Just did some testing last weekend. Made sure I was sighted in at 50 yds. Then shot some steel targets at about 50 and 80 yds. I use a NcStarscope with the P4 reticle. I first shot with my supporting hand holding the quad rail. Then I shot using the mag. As a support. I found that the gun shot lower when supported by the mag. I had to shoot using the 2nd tic mark below the cross hairs to hit the target at 80 yds. and I had to use the 1st tic mark down at the 50 yd. Target.
This is pretty much what I expected. Even with a full one piece stock you must rest the gun supported at the same place on the stock to acheave consistant results. This is especially true, however, when shooting any gun with a two piece stock (ie. The 15-22). Always shoot with the front of the gun supported from the same spot on the stock. It will go a long way to tighten up groups.
By the by, I shot a 3 shot group of 3/4 inch at 50 yds ( 36 gr. WW hp), and a 7/16 inch 5 shot group at 50 yds. Using federal Lightning 40 gr. Rn. Lead.


en

 

[Dead eye 22]

On that 5 shot group, I mention to say 15/16 inch group ( typo).

 

[Morgan320i]

its more of a shooter thing the gun is very accurate i thought, i should fed bulk all day long and get close groups if your off by inches its you, with a scope and a bench u can blow out center targets all day at 50 yards, 100 yards there is a little drop but still accurate

 

[Grinder]

Bipods and accuracy don't normally go together.
Try sand bags

 

[CPTBeaker]

Bipods and accuracy don't normally go together.
Try sand bags

+1

I fired my 15-22 almost exclusively using a bipod the first couple of months I owned it. I was a little disappointed in the accuracy until I started trying various ammo brands, velocities, etc. Eventually I got sick of using the bipod and took it off and started to fire sandbag supported. I noticed an immediate improvement in consistency and group tightness.

Here's my theory...

With a bipod rigidly connected to the bottom rail of the handguard, adjusting the sight picture by simply moving the rifle was torquing the handguard left/right by varying amounts. Since the bipod feet were remaining stationary, the movement of the rear of the rifle was putting inconsistent stress on the handguard and in turn on the barrel.

At 50 & 100 yards, even a slight movement will be noticeable.

Using sandbags or another support will still place a small amount of upward torque on your barrel, but it will at least be consistent. Adjusting the sight picture by moving the rear of the rifle will no longer torque the handguard left/right because it won't be connected to anything and should be resting in your palm with an almost nonexistent grip.

That's my 2 cents...

 

[Argonnakid]

That is an interesting theory, but I think that it would not have that much pressure on the barrel as to effect the shot groups. And here is my reasoning, the 15-22 is pretty much a free floating barreled firearm. For example, you could remove and cut down the hand guard all the way to the last hole toward the recevier and then reinstall the appox. 1 in of hand guard. You have a fully free floated barrel. The hand guard has no direct affect on the barrel.

Not to say your style of shooting is doesn't work. Each one of us is our own person,