15/22 Problem

RRich

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Hi guys, looking for some advise from anyone in the know or if you've come across the same problem.

I've owned my 15/22 for a few years now and upgraded the trigger to a Hyperfire 24c about 3 to 4 years ago. The rifle has run sweet for all this time but in the last month or so, I'm getting a lot of light strikes. She'll fire 3 or 3 shots but then I get a light strike, eject it and she'll fire another few shots before the same thing happens.

I've installed a new firing pin, stripped her down and thoroughly cleaned every part, including the trigger group. Still getting this problem.

I was wondering if fitting a new hammer spring would be any help, I'm using the spring that came with the rifle and there still seems to be plenty of force with it when tested with the rifle apart and the hammer stopped with my thumb. My other option might be to reinstall the original trigger.

Any help or advice from you guys would be very appreciated.

Rich
 
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Any reason why you didn't use the included springs? Regardless, if you didn't choose the "gray" toggle springs for your install, use them and that will likely fix the issue. I'm really surprised that any of the 3 colors would be associated with a light strike.

Things to check:

Make sure the bolt closes completely.
Perhaps try other ammo.
Make sure firing pin / bolt assembly is thoroughly clean.
Check the pins and make sure one or the other hasn't walked a little. Just for insurance I installed the M&P 15-22 - specific KNS anti-rotation pins when I installed my 24C.
 
Thanks for your assistance guys, I'll definitely have a look through the troubleshooting help.
 
Hmmm, ran 75 rounds of Federal Premium through mine yesterday sighting in a scope and had 5 FTF with OEM trigger. Each round fired when put through the rifle a second time (loaded in the mag). All showed primer strikes. Going to use CCI Mini Mag next time to see if they do the same thing. Love this rifle but those were annoying to say the least.
 
You didn't say how many rounds you have put through your rifle. I have seen firing pins wear and start having ftf's around 15,000 rounds.
The 15-22 firing pin is carefully sized so as not to ding the chamber when dry fired. The pin is not soft but will eventually be blunted by firing and will eventually be too short to fire reliably 100% of the time. A $10.00 firing pin will get you back in business.
 
A $10.00 firing pin will get you back in business.

Dude, he said in his post that he installed a new firing pin!

I also have a 24c and have never had an issue with it...I have honestly never put thought to the lifespan of the product...but I highly doubt that i'll see it die...doubt my children who will inherit it will see it die either. So I would discount the 24c being the issue.

You didn't say if you have factory pins, hiperfire pins or KNS or other anti walk pins installed. This would be one of the things I would check, after the firing pin spring.

Just trouble shooting here and not trying to condescend but my checklist would be.

Trigger and hammer Pins.
Firing pin spring.
Guide rails on the bolt for any bends if dropped. I have dropped alot :eek:
The obligatory check that the barrel nut is tight.
Any change in mag loading, hand or speed loaded, mag springs and magazine feed lips.

It must be frustrating, I feel for you and hope that you get to the bottom of the issue. It might be best to take it back to factory parts, make sure it works and then start swapping bits until you find the culprit. Keep us posted.
 
I've installed a new firing pin, stripped her down and thoroughly cleaned every part, including the trigger group. Still getting this problem.

Did this cleaning include removing the FP/spring from the bolt, cleaning those as well as cleaning the channel?
 
Did this cleaning include removing the FP/spring from the bolt, cleaning those as well as cleaning the channel?

Complete disassembly is not necessary. Any pressurized solvent can be blown through the channel to flush out powder debris. Do it from both directions and then blow the channel out with compressed air.

DO NOT use any wet lube on the firing pin and channel. That will just attract more crud. Use only DRY graphite! Do not use the stuff for locks as it contains oil.
 
Complete disassembly is not necessary. Any pressurized solvent can be blown through the channel to flush out powder debris. Do it from both directions and then blow the channel out with compressed air.

DO NOT use any wet lube on the firing pin and channel. That will just attract more crud. Use only DRY graphite! Do not use the stuff for locks as it contains oil.

The BEST way is to remove the FP and manually clean al of the crud (if there is any) out of the channel, and clean FP and spring. Degrease all the parts, including the channel, and re-assemble with NO LUBE. Lubing any FP/spring/channel will just collect powder residue and eventually turn to muck, which inhibits the movement of the FP. Sure, you can used compressed air, but that's kind of a hack way of doing it.
 
The BEST way is to remove the FP and manually clean al of the crud (if there is any) out of the channel, and clean FP and spring. Degrease all the parts, including the channel, and re-assemble with NO LUBE. Lubing any FP/spring/channel will just collect powder residue and eventually turn to muck, which inhibits the movement of the FP. Sure, you can used compressed air, but that's kind of a hack way of doing it.

40k through mine, original FP, never removed, cleaned as I describe every 5k. Note that solvent always comes first! 😎
 
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