18-2 question? *UPDATE*

Shooter-2

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Hi All; I found a 18-2 w/box but no tools locally. Around here they seem pretty scarce. It is very clean and appears to have been shot very little. I don't know much about them except that i have always wanted one:D I asked them to hold it for me and he said he would for a few days, as i agreed to pay asking price($1000.00). Is there anything to look for upon inspection other than the obvious? Thanks in Advance

I would like to thank everyone for your comments on the 18. I brought her home and look forward to a range trip. I have the box in "surgery" right now, but here's a few pic's of the new addition to the family:)
 

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First, Excellent revolver!!! Just about the very finest quality .22 LR revolver ever produced by any manufacturer at any time. An exceptional handgun. When I was shooting my revolver weekly, I got to where I could keep a fifty round box of ammo inside of three inches firing double action at 25 yards. Give it the normal examination, ie, fit/finish, check lockup on each charge hole. Do not under any circumstance drop the hammer on a empty chamber. The revolver is a rim-fire, the firing pin will batter the edge of the chamber mouth w/o a cartridge case in place. The revolver would have shipped with the common magna grips which may or may not be numbered to the gun. The box and tools, etc. would be nice, but reality is that the box and factory cleaning kit were often used/ abused and discarded. I've owned six of these fine revolvers since 1983. The prices have gone up. This revolver is out of production so nice revolvers are expensive. There are no similar examples available from any manufacturer. Pending a good careful inspection, I'd get cash and head for that gunshop. Sincerely. bruce.
 
$1000 is on the high end for an 18-2; stocks numbered to the gun, with box/papers/tools then maybe $1k is ok. Gun by itself, say 95+% condition without box/papers/tools, maybe with stocks not numbered to the gun, I think $700-$850 is what I'd expect to pay where I shop. Great revolvers though in any of the dash numbers and the new ones (617s) are just fine too. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
Don't worry about the price if it's not outrageous. It's hard to put a dollar figure on enjoyment. If the gun's in good shape and you want it, buy it. These are fine shooting revolvers and you don't run across them everyday.
 
I've had an M-18 several years, now and really like having and shooting it. The only down side is tight charging holes that needed to be reamed out. Which is a quick and easy fix. The ejector rod tends to back out and needs to be tightened on a regular bases, which a small drop of Blue lock-tight will eliminate that problem.
Enjoy having and shooting that guy.
 
I have two Model 18-3s and they are my favorite revolvers. I shoot these more than any other revolver I own.
They're also getting hard to come by. Those that have 'em, tend to keep 'em.
$1000 is a bit high. But then ask yourself, how often do you see one for sale and how bad do you want it?
 
Take this to the next level...here is my holy grail...early 1950's pre-model 18 with matching #'s, 5 screws and mat finish...what more could I want in a 22 rimfire handgun?

You never know what treasures can be found around the next corner...

best...
 

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Link to a thread with some additional information:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...l-17-vs-model-18-a.html?617297=#post140756557

I paid about $600+ fees for a model 18-4 about 15 months ago. Lightly used but shooter grade. No box, no matching grips, German proofs. No great collectors value, fine with me. I spent about $100 on factory target grips. Add about $100 for a numbered box, and another $50~80 for factory original grips, and I would be at about your cost.

I saw a near perfect 18-3 at a show a couple weeks ago. Number-matching grips, light turn ring, no box or papers, $799.-

Having said all that, I really enjoy shooting the 6" Model 17 at the range. If the 18 does not work for you, an equivalent Model 17 is usually less costly...

I am normally asking for advice here, not giving it, but that is my 2 cents worth, chuckle.

They clean up nice, but there is edge wear on the frame, a few handling marks, a rear sight ding, and the extractor and recoil shield show wear from frequent use.
F1ybsd6Y
 

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While the price may be on the high side, what will you spend chasing a $900 gun. By the time you pay gas, food, fees, and time to attend gun shows, and gun shops, you can eat up much more than the difference. When I find an over priced gun I want, I negotiate as much as possible, then buy it. I have learned that I will be ahead in the long run. Plus, the enjoyment I have in owning it cannot be calculated into the price. :-)
 
So true Nightowl ...... felt like I overspent on my second 18-?; but I wanted a nice shooter grade (Call it 90%+) as my other 18 was too nice to take into Penn's Woods. I'd been offered $1,000 for it with it's Stag Grips over 15 years ago.

So I bought the bullet and paid the extra $100........... about 14 years ago.... That's an extra $7.14/ year to have a 18 I could take in the woods.

To PeteC's point the 17 is a better range gun with a longer sight radius.... lots more made...... the 18 is IMHO a better "field gun" but split that market with the J-frame 34 and 63. That said I like the K-frame trigger better for double action shooting !!!
 
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So true Nightowl ...... felt like I overspent on my second 18-?; but I wanted a nice shooter grade (Call it 90%+) as my other 18 was too nice to take into Penn's Woods. I'd been offered $1,000 for it with it's Stag Grips over 15 years ago.

So I bought the bullet and paid the extra $100........... about 14 years ago.... That's an extra $7.14/ year to have a 18 I could take in the woods.

To PeteC's point the 17 is a better range gun with a longer sight radius.... lots more made...... the 18 is IMHO a better "field gun" but split that market with the J-frame 34 and 63. That said I like the K-frame trigger better for double action shooting !!!

There may be something to the "longer sight radius advantage" if you're a very experienced and skilled shooter, but any alleged benefit from a 6" barrel over one of 4" will go unnoticed for 99% of us. That's based solely on personal observation from many years of 25 yard Bullseye-style shooting.
 
Another big plus for the Model 18 is that it makes a great understudy to your .38/.357 revolvers. Pretty much the same weight, feel and trigger pull as your defensive guns with much cheaper ammo. One of my 18s was modified by a previous owner with RR, WO, smooth trigger and a nice trigger job. I added a set of Uncle Mike's Combat grips which is my preferred grip on a defensive revolver. I shoot this gun almost exclusively DA. I give this revolver full credit for teaching me to shoot a DA revolver well. ;)

My two model 18s are left and center on the bottom row.

YpQD6kK.jpg
 
I have an old one and the chamber’s are tight. I thought I might have to ream the chambers but I cleaned it good and Federal Auto Match works perfect. Need to experiment with different ammo if the chamber or tight. Modern ammunition can be longer and not fit as well as it should.
 
When was the last time you saw a 18 for sale? Figure that into your decision.

I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a Model 18 for sale. I bought a new 17 (6”) back in the early 1980’s so I never looked for (or could afford at the time) an 18. If I was still working I wouldn’t think twice about giving a grand for a nice 18. They don’t make ‘em like that anymore (and likely never will).
 

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