1905 32-20 4" nickle
- Thread starter jdh
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Looking forward to pictures! Sorry to hear the 4" was gone, one of those is on my wish list, too........
They did have a 5" square butt nickle that was in a bit rougher shape. SN 78xxx. $399.
Thats a 4th change which to me is way more common as they made 78,983 of them . when you move to the 3rd change 20,499 . 2nd change 11,699 ,, 1st change 11,078 and the very first issue 1905 HE in 32-20 had 4300 made.
So the road get's alot tougher in finding them in any kind of condition after 100+ years and i would think even just a nice shooter in the 3rd change would bring $300+ if you need that model and i would pay more then that for a 2nd or 1st change. but i wouldn't pay more the $200-250 for a 4th change just because they made almost 60,000 more then the 3rd change.
Thats a 4th change which to me is way more common as they made 78,983 of them . when you move to the 3rd change 20,499 . 2nd change 11,699 ,, 1st change 11,078 and the very first issue 1905 HE in 32-20 had 4300 made.
So the road get's alot tougher in finding them in any kind of condition after 100+ years and i would think even just a nice shooter in the 3rd change would bring $300+ if you need that model and i would pay more then that for a 2nd or 1st change. but i wouldn't pay more the $200-250 for a 4th change just because they made almost 60,000 more then the 3rd change.
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How about under the barrel, on the flat, where the serial number is ? Is there a B or an
N anywhere on the flat ? How about under the grips, usually on the right grip straps ?
Is there an N somewhere on the straps, but not immediately around the stock pin ?
Mike Priwer
N anywhere on the flat ? How about under the grips, usually on the right grip straps ?
Is there an N somewhere on the straps, but not immediately around the stock pin ?
Mike Priwer
OP
jdh
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Not in any of the places I am used to seeing on a factory nickle. The barrel markings, including the two lines of the patent on top of the barrel, and serial number stamps on the barrel and frame are deep and clear. They do not appear to have been polished in prep for plating like you see on so many aftermarket plated guns. There just is not an N stamped anywhere that I can see.
Are the grips numbered to that HE?
I personally prefer the 5" revolvers.
I personally prefer the 5" revolvers.
OP
jdh
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The right grip panel has the matching serial number penciled on it.
It has evidence (wear) indicating it has spent time in a holster. The pitting on the areas of the frame in contact with the wood indicate it has been exposed to the weather. This is one you wish could talk and tell its story.
It may be a candidate for a letter.
It has evidence (wear) indicating it has spent time in a holster. The pitting on the areas of the frame in contact with the wood indicate it has been exposed to the weather. This is one you wish could talk and tell its story.
It may be a candidate for a letter.
My 3rd change has that same issue with the grips , but it looked more like glue was used to me as i had to remove it from the wood with a razor as just to remove the glue which in turn pitted the frame only where the glue was used as the whole area was not pitted.
Definitely a nice shooter. Good score!
I agree with Muley Gil. I have a strong preference for the 5" M&P revolvers. I find them to balance better in my hand, and from 15 to 25 yards, they seem to shoot to point of aim better than the 4" fixed sight guns in my inventory. All of my pre-1950 4" fixed sight revolvers shoot more than an inch high at 15 yards. The 5" guns do not.
Jack
I agree with Muley Gil. I have a strong preference for the 5" M&P revolvers. I find them to balance better in my hand, and from 15 to 25 yards, they seem to shoot to point of aim better than the 4" fixed sight guns in my inventory. All of my pre-1950 4" fixed sight revolvers shoot more than an inch high at 15 yards. The 5" guns do not.
Jack
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