1911 Question

[bassoneer]

I recently acquired a Series 70 Colt Combat Commander in good condition. I know it's not a S&W, but I have S&W revolvers and have come to trust the folks on this forum, so I'm asking here hoping that somebody can advise me. I don't know that much about 1911's, actually not much at all. I fired this gun quite a bit with round ball ammo and it did fine and was very accurate. However, it doesn't like hollow points. I took it to a gun smith and he said it needs ramp work and polishing, and he showed me how a Kimber looked on the inside compared to this old gun and it is obvious that it is different. He said that this will make it feel hollow points like a champ and it will be very reliable. He also recommended that I go with a full length guide rod and bushing and I agreed, but wanted to keep the old guide rod since it was original. He also said he could replace a little piece on the side that is held on with two pins (extractor?) that will make the casings go out to the side instead of straight up in the air (and in my face). He is also replacing a pin that holds the little ring onto the barrel and fitting some things together better.



You guys that know about 1911's...does all this sound right? I like the thought of an all original gun, but not if it won't feed hollow points. I want a reliable gun and I was assured this would do it. Also, this gun has a satin nickel finish, and once the gunsmith grinds and polishes on the ramp, won't that rust (without the nickle)? Maybe the nickel was already worn off from the ammo scraping across it for the last 30 years? Any advice? Sounds like I'll get a much more reliable gun, but I don't like leaving a (new to me) gun with a gunsmith for several weeks. Thanks, B

 

[Aussie44]

Sounds Right,The last thing you mention is the barrel link and pin.The barrel on the older 1911's need to be opened up to feed hollow points,they were only designed to feed FMJ.As you noticed when he showed you the Kimber the newer 1911's come already done at the factory.The rest are accuracy and reliabilty orientated,If done right it will be a great pistol.You might not get too much improvement with accuracy without going to a new barrel.

Ken

 

[Joni_Lynn]

Full length guide rods do pretty much nothing except put money other peoples pockets.

 

[BruceM]

+1 on not needing a full length guide rod. They're pretty much a marketing ploy IMO although currently very popular.



Bruce

 

[haggis]

Full length guide rods do pretty much nothing except put money other peoples pockets.

A solution looking for a problem.

Buck

 

[TonyR]

Be very carful who you let tinker with your 1911. Changing to a full lenght guide rod does nothing for the pistol. changing the barrel link length and fitting a new barrel bushing changes the geometry of the barrel and its relationship to the feed ramp. Polishing the ramp is OK as long as its just polished. If too much metal is removed or the angle of the ramp is changed you can throw away the frame !!! If the casings are falling in front of you or hitting your head it is probable that your recoil spring is the wrong poundage. Changing the disconector is not the right fix. You may need extractor fitting. Get an itemized list of the work he intends to do along with costs and some written guaranty. If you need a name of a 1911 wizard I can provide you with his name and number .Good luck, TonyR

 

[shawn mccarver]

I recently acquired a Series 70 Colt Combat Commander in good condition. I know it's not a S&W, but I have S&W revolvers and have come to trust the folks on this forum, so I'm asking here hoping that somebody can advise me. I don't know that much about 1911's, actually not much at all. I fired this gun quite a bit with round ball ammo and it did fine and was very accurate. However, it doesn't like hollow points.

Needs a reliability package: throat, polish, tune extractor, etc.


I took it to a gun smith and he said it needs ramp work and polishing, and he showed me how a Kimber looked on the inside compared to this old gun and it is obvious that it is different. He said that this will make it feel hollow points like a champ and it will be very reliable. He also recommended that I go with a full length guide rod and bushing

Absolutely do NOT do this. Not necessary for any purpose except the gunsmith selling snake oil. In addition, it makes it impossible to disassemble without a bushing wrench, and one of the best things about the 1911 is the ability to field strip without tools. Finally, in a full size 1911, the FLGR makes it impossible to run the slide one-handed by using a hard surface on the lower edge of the slide.



and I agreed, but wanted to keep the old guide rod since it was original. He also said he could replace a little piece on the side that is held on with two pins (extractor?) that will make the casings go out to the side instead of straight up in the air (and in my face).

See extractor tune mentioned above.


He is also replacing a pin that holds the little ring onto the barrel and fitting some things together better.


Not necessary.



You guys that know about 1911's...does all this sound right? I like the thought of an all original gun, but not if it won't feed hollow points. I want a reliable gun and I was assured this would do it. Also, this gun has a satin nickel finish, and once the gunsmith grinds and polishes on the ramp, won't that rust (without the nickle)? Maybe the nickel was already worn off from the ammo scraping across it for the last 30 years? Any advice? Sounds like I'll get a much more reliable gun, but I don't like leaving a (new to me) gun with a gunsmith for several weeks. Thanks, B

See comments above in the text for answers to your questions.

The job described should not take that long. You are better off sending it to the Springfield Custom Shop, Wilson's, the Gunsite Gunsmithy or Cylinder & Slide.

 

[TonyR]

Or how about back to Colt.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Or how about back to Colt.

That is the best of all worlds!

 

[m1gunner]

Be very carful who you let tinker with your 1911.

Polishing the ramp is OK as long as its just polished. If too much metal is removed or the angle of the ramp is changed you can throw away the frame !!!

The frame can be easily turned to junk by a botched "ramp job".

If it were mine, I would get a new barrel and have it fitted and polished and throated so it would feed the bullets I use. And would keep the old barrel as is.

Extractor tune and a recoil spring suited for intended ammo should make it run like a champ.

 

[Aussie44]

The frame can be easily turned to junk by a botched "ramp job"

That's not quite true,You can install a ramped barrel to save the frame.But everything else you said is good advice.

Ken

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

If it were mine, I would get a new barrel and have it fitted and polished and throated so it would feed the bullets I use. And would keep the old barrel as is.

Extractor tune and a recoil spring suited for intended ammo should make it run like a champ.

I agree, have him put a new barrel in the gun, without the full lenght guide rod. Keep the original barrel as a spare or a hard baller barrel. Tune the extractor & fix the ejector if it needs it.

To replace the barrel is cheap, and at least he won't bucher up the original barrel or mess with the ramp.

 

[wheelgunnut]

If you're a nut about originality (like me), don't mess with the 1911 and simply shoot round ball. You mentioned RN is reliable. Right. That's what the 1911 was designed for. Should you wish to employ a more effective round for defensive purposes, get yourself a nice SIG. It'll feed anything.

 

[borntoraisehogs]

I have Colts and Kimbers and if you have a Colt that will reliably shoot 230gr jacket hardball and you let anybiody touch it . You will be sorry . My crowd all shoot the same ammo , on the same mag and all our guns either shoot 230 hardball out of the box , Kimbers and some Colts, but all can be reliable 230 grain shooters . I love My Kinbers , but I will be surprised if they ever have the appeal as the old Colts . i would no more let a gun butcher alter a reliable Colt 1911 than I would let someone magna port my S serial 29-2 6 1/2 . Over someones dead body .

 

[bassoneer]

You guys know your stuff. Thanks for all the advice. I got similar warnings on the guide rod replacement on a couple other forums as well, so I am calling the gun smith today and having them remove the guide rod from the ticket.

This gun is not pristine and not worthy of being a collector's item...it has been shot a lot and the satin nickle finish isn't that pretty any longer. It is going to be my carry gun and I don't care if it gets a scratch or two, but I want it to be reliable, so...I am going to proceed with the gunsmith fixing the ramp, ejector and pin issues. This particular gun smith warned me also about removing too much meat from the ramp area and how bad that would be. And the link pin could be removed with your fingernail, so I believe it to be worn out. I was the one that asked about the extractor issue, and they also mentioned the spring with less poundage. All in all, I think they will do a good job, but I'm not doing the full length guide rod. I never asked for it anyway. Thanks, B

 

[SPC]

I stumbled into a Wilson Full Length Guide Rod kit for $20 and went for it. Eventually, I wound up throwing the Guide Rod to the street and just using the shok buff's and the 20# spring. Good springs and a good extractor can take a cheap 1911 and turn it into a very reliable and accurate weapon. That said, I've got a wilson drop in barrel and my RIA will feed anything, absolutely anything.

 

[H Richard]

Be cautious with shock buff's. Some of them will swell over time and cause drag inside the slide. I had one swell and split, causing complete malfunction. I no longer use shock buff's in my 1911's.

 

[buckeyeshooter1]

I'm with M1 gunner --- let them throat a replacement barrel. With the original parts saved you preserve the collecor value and investment in your colt. Also, I would just go with a throating and polishing to get hollowpoints to feed. The other items mentioned are not needed to improve the pistols performance and frankly hurt the investment you have made. Heck, if it were me, I would just use hardball. Its proven itself for almost 100 years in the millitary.

 

[SPC]

Be cautious with shock buff's. Some of them will swell over time and cause drag inside the slide. I had one swell and split, causing complete malfunction. I no longer use shock buff's in my 1911's.

Thanks for the warning. I noticed a bit of swelling on the first one that I replaced after ~800rds, but haven't noticed any problem since going to changing them every 500rds.

 

[Aussie44]

I'm going to have to disagree with everyone and say Full lenght guide rods are not useless.First thing I do is turf the original and always fit a full lenght rod.I have never had probs with them and function was always 100%.also no more springs with a bend.

Ken