1911SC Oil or Grease on Rails?

To be honest, I don't know why S&W even bothers with scandium on the 1911s. The typical lightweight commander from Colt, Ruger, Springfield, and etc weighs the same without any concern for strength with 99% of loads shoot out of them. Recoil on a 30oz 1911 45acp is not bad. My 40oz 1911 10mm feels about the same as a lightweight commander which is like plus p 38spl in an airweight. I wouldn't mind shooting 200 rounds a day through the lightweight commanders if I had to.
 
To be honest, I don't know why S&W even bothers with scandium on the 1911s.

Three reasons I can think of:

1) At that time aluminum feed ramps were considered fragile. I have some scarred up Colt ramps from hollow points that nose dived and impressed their tip edges into the feed ramp as the slide came to a halt. The fix for this at the time was a ramped barrel. Ramped barrels in 45 are inherently less reliable than the traditional feedramp/barrel arrangement. Yes they can be made to work but they are problematic in 45. The Sc alloy fixed that problem and they could go with the traditional ramp on the frame setup.

2) Old AL framed Colts were pretty famous for developing cracks at the base of the dust cover. Modern alloys improve this greatly, and SC alloy beats them all in this department.

3) Marketing. The 1911 marketplace is very crowded, and any differentiating factor is a big plus.
 
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1911SC

I too was looking at this but didn't have the $1,000 he's asking for it. If I hadn't just purchased a EMP3 I would have given it a more serious thought. These don't come up very often in our neck of the woods!
 
Thank you again to all that offered information and input. I am very happy that I did purchase this gun. My question now is with a scandium frame should I be using Oil or Grease. The gun does look like new and there is not a lot of wear on the rails/frame. I usually use a Wilson Combat oil that stays very well in place. I did purchase some Tetra Gun Grease. Can I use my regular oil or will the Gun Grease be better to avoid possible wear on this Scandium frame?
 
I think many will say grease, because grease stays. I love that it stays (mostly) but what I have found is grease that stays also collects filth and scum which also stays. A quality lube flows and I lube 'em immediately before a range session and I wipe the old oil out and put a light coat back in when I get home.

I like a red grease (Shooter's Choice) for the locking lugs and the barrel to bushing fit because I don't notice it turning in to a dark, dirty sludge there where I do when grease is on frame rails.

I believe if you use either, either will work perfectly well as long as you change it out often.

I'll say this! :D If we are talking "GUN LUBE", I expect nobody whatsoever to agree.
 
Like Sevens said, you'll get a lot of opinions on gun lube. I use moly grease on my 1911SC rails. True, it will gunk up if not cleaned after a range session, but I always clean after a range session and re-grease. I was told moly grease (molybdenum disulfide) was best for the steel-aluminum (or scandium) interface at the rails by the forum's foremost gunsmith.
 
Properly applied, I use either Wilson's oil or Brownells gun grease.
Much more important is change it often and don't let crud accumulate!
 
lube

Thank you again to all that offered information and input. I am very happy that I did purchase this gun. My question now is with a scandium frame should I be using Oil or Grease. The gun does look like new and there is not a lot of wear on the rails/frame. I usually use a Wilson Combat oil that stays very well in place. I did purchase some Tetra Gun Grease. Can I use my regular oil or will the Gun Grease be better to avoid possible wear on this Scandium frame?

Use whatever you like best............there will be as many opinions as there are people......

Randy
 
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