1917 Troubles

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Hello, I have a Smith 1917 with a trigger issue. If you bring it to full single action cock and slowly squeeze the trigger, half the time the hammer will fall about 1/16 of an inch or so and stick right there, then when you release the trigger it will fall back to the fired position. Half the time it just falls like its supposed to. No hitches at all with D/A fire. Any Ideas? Thanks for your time!
 
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…then when you release the trigger it will fall back to the fired position…

It? The hammer falls back to the fired position or the trigger returns to the fired position?

Either way, it sounds like a good disassembly, cleaning and reassembly is in order. There may be something overtightened (or assembled incorrectly) causing the hammer to catch.

Kevin
 
Whatever else may or may not be going on, a good disassembly, cleaning and lube does no harm. I recently got a 1917 that was out of time. I took it apart, cleaned and lubed it, now it's timing is purty as can be.

Does the gun have factory springs? Strain screw tightened all the way?

I ain't smart enough to get into the extensive work with a 1917, but I can suggest checking the basics...
 
Hello, I have a Smith 1917 with a trigger issue. If you bring it to full single action cock and slowly squeeze the trigger, half the time the hammer will fall about 1/16 of an inch or so and stick right there, then when you release the trigger it will fall back to the fired position. Half the time it just falls like its supposed to. No hitches at all with D/A fire. Any Ideas? Thanks for your time!

When that happens, if you keep solid hold on the trigger and then deliberately ease it forward, does the hammer ease down with it at the same time, same rate and reset?

If, when that happens, were you to hold the trigger fast in place, then again pull the trigger, what happens with the hammer?
 
The push-off issue aside, try loosening the side plate screws a little.
Just a 1/4 turn each or so.
Then try the SA again and see if the hammer still stalls .

The plate may be jamming the hammer from pivoting easily (but it's usually the trigger function that gets jammed by the tight side plate).

I'm thinking with the Push-Off issue that some 'work' has been done inside and perhaps side shake shim(s) have been added to the hammer axle. Maybe a little too much thickness along with an uneven rotation contact flat on the frame and/or plate and the tight spot develops and stalls the hammer.

Taking the side plate off and having a good look inside after the quick experiment is the next step anyway.
 
Thank you all for the replies gentlemen, will have a proffesional take a look.
 
I believe in the Gunsmithing section you will find information on correcting push-off. Not hard to correct, if you have the proper tools. About a 5 minute fix.
 
Whatever else may or may not be going on, a good disassembly, cleaning and lube does no harm. I recently got a 1917 that was out of time. I took it apart, cleaned and lubed it, now it's timing is purty as can be.

This is interesting. My 1917 is out-of-time with three chambers. I haven't opened it up yet. Was yours out-of-time on all chambers or just a few, where an internal clean-and-lube cleared it up?
 
In the OP's opening post, what's happening is the hammer is going back too far and the trigger gets on the secondary DA part of the hammer. Then when the trigger is pulled slowly, the hammer falls to the normal single action notch position (about 1/16 of an inch). Then the hammer falls the rest of the way.

One way to fix that might be to make a trigger stop that won't allow it to be over cocked. The hammer or trigger may have been modified at some time in the past in such a way that allows this to happen. Normally, the frame below the hammer spur stops the hammer from going back too far.
 
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This is interesting. My 1917 is out-of-time with three chambers. I haven't opened it up yet. Was yours out-of-time on all chambers or just a few, where an internal clean-and-lube cleared it up?

The first thing I always check it end shake. If the cylinder is able to move forward more than it should the hand can go past the tooth a bit early. If correcting end shake doesn't do it with 3 chambers going early I would find a wider hand
 
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