1949 K38 Masterpiece hammer sear question

[JonnyZee]

I just purchased this K38 Target Masterpiece a few days ago. The first thing I noticed, besides it being beautiful, was in single action you just BARELY touched the trigger and the hammer would drop, which I didn't like at all! Once inside I found the hammer notch did not have a sharp edge and the sear was rounded. It looked like someone possibly got in there at some point and stoned some of the front edge off, I'm not sure. I proceeded to get the proper angles on the sear using an extra fine Arkansas stone, but I do believe I'm through the case hardening as it was pretty easy stoning. The trigger definitely feels great now, and safe, and the pull is now at 3 lbs and really smooth. The hammer has no push off now as it did before. I pushed it forward from all angles and it is locked solid. My question is... does this sear need to be hardened in some way or will it be ok the way it is. I'm not sure how hard, or soft, the metal is if I'm indeed through the hardening. I won't be shooting it that often, I would say maybe 500 rounds a year if that. I'm hoping it will be fine for a few years or more. I'm sure it's not easy finding a target trigger! Any thoughts and opinions appreciated.

 

[armorer951]

I cannot see the SA bevel on the trigger or the cocking notch on the hammer in your photo, so I am unable to evaluate them, or fully answer your question.

The factory rule reference push off is that the trigger bevel can be re-sharpened to the proper factory angle if needed in an attempt to restore proper function, but the cocking notch in the hammer should never be modified or rehabilitated.

Your call on attempting to source new OEM parts to replace the hammer if it was previously modified, (and/or the trigger also)......and whether or not the gun is safe to shoot in it's present condition.

If you intend to shoot the gun, I would certainly keep a close eye on the SA interface, (cocking notch on the hammer and the trigger bevel) and monitor the trigger pull weight closely.


Carter

 

[JonnyZee]

The biggest problem with the notch was a build up of old oil and dirt. I cleaned that up and ran a very fine stone lightly across it. The sear has a nice beveled angle on it now and provides a good interaction with the cocking notch. It is certainly safe to shoot at this point. The picture of the trigger and hammer are before shots. I forgot to take after shots, I will next time I'm in there. So you don't think there will be excessive wear if the hardening is gone, or you think the sear will wear quickly? Thanks for your reply btw

 

[armorer951]

Since there has been at least one previous owner, who modified the parts it would be impossible to judge the integrity of the hardened surfaces. The case hardening is only .002 "- .003" thick I believe.
The best and safestt way to proceed is with caution, and to monitor the trigger pull regularly. If the angle on the trigger bevel is correct, and the hammer is not damaged, it's probably ok.

 

[JonnyZee]

I will definitely keep my eye on it. Thanks

 

[DWalt]

You will probably get advance indications of any adverse operation. I would leave the hammer sear notch alone unless you feel something happening that makes you suspicious.

 

[chief38]

I’ve been successful in picking up new old stock hammers and triggers (some bare some complete) for J & K frames at gun shows. You might want to have 1 or 2 as back up just in case. I also have a fairly good stock on springs and pretty much all internal and external parts. Haven’t had to order anything in 30+ years-good feeling and peace of mind.

 

[CV66]

You could always contact Brownell's and ask for gunsmith help. They might suggest Kasenit to harden the metal surface. Enjoy.

 

[2152hq]

If you have anything that is hardened and ground to a very fine & sharp point (Like a metal scribe point),,you can test to see if the surface is case hardened or not.
Or you can carefully use a sharp file to do the same.

Neither should grab into a case hardened surface with light pressure placed upon it.
Both should 'skate' off of the case hardened surface as it is glass hard and not bite into it.

If the 'case' has been cut through in spots by stoning through it, either tool will easily grab in the soft steel under the case hardened surface.

Don't use a lot of pressure on either the hardened pointed scribe or a file when testing.
Case Hardening can be extremely thin by it's nature and even thinner if it's been worked over. You can by force push either implement thru a really thin case and get the idea that there is none there at all.

Sometimes with high magnification, you can actually see where case hardening has been worn or cut thru.
The case hardened surface will have a very high brilliant polish to it from burnishing wear.
The softer underlying steel will have a lesser brightness to it's polish and even a slightly different color to it. More of a dull gray tone instead of a bright plated look.

One last trick is with cold blue.
This sometimes works,,sometimes not...depends on the extent of the case hardening and sometimes the type of coldblue used..
A test with cold blue on the surface..the blue will 'take' on any areas where the case hardening has been worn thru.
Any areas still case hardened and polished from use will remain polished or may just slightly tarnish from the cold blue application.

 

[Taj]

I cannot see the SA bevel on the trigger or the cocking notch on the hammer in your photo, so I am unable to evaluate them, or fully answer your question.

The factory rule reference push off is that the trigger bevel can be re-sharpened to the proper factory angle if needed in an attempt to restore proper function, but the cocking notch in the hammer should never be modified or rehabilitated.

Your call on attempting to source new OEM parts to replace the hammer if it was previously modified, (and/or the trigger also)......and whether or not the gun is safe to shoot in it's present condition.

If you intend to shoot the gun, I would certainly keep a close eye on the SA interface, (cocking notch on the hammer and the trigger bevel) and monitor the trigger pull weight closely.


Carter

Armorer 951 is pretty much right on. The trigger can be stoned to correct sear angle but the hammer is a no-no. I have stoned sear angles on probably hundreds of occasions and have found they will hold for thousands of rounds if done properly and not abused. Shoot the gun and like 951 said, monitor it for a while. The saving grace for a SA pull is that it is never cocked until you are ready to shoot.