1955 Target question

THE GUNSMITH

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
156
Reaction score
15
Location
INDIANA
I have a 45 acp 1955 target 5 screw in the S145XXX range. It has the W shaped mainspring, and a decent set of grips with a small chip. Gun in great shape except some idiot had applied matte blue finish.
Should I have it restored, or leave it alone? Would like to return it to original condition. Also, any idea on value?
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
I have a 45 acp 1955 target 5 screw in the S145XXX range. It has the W shaped mainspring, and a decent set of grips with a small chip. Gun in great shape except some idiot had applied matte blue finish.
Should I have it restored, or leave it alone? Would like to return it to original condition. Also, any idea on value?

Do you mean it has been completely reblued in a matte blue
or touched up in places by a previous owner? Restored?
Returned to original condition? No gun that has been
refinished can ever be returned to it's original condition. You
could have it refinished to a polished blue like it originally
came with if you wanted. Value as is is hard to even guess
at without pics. As to what you should do, only you can decide
that. You want to keep it, sell it? Realize that the money
spent for a quality reblue will not be returned at the time of
sale. My personal opinion is that if it's in great shape and
you want to keep it then enjoy it as is.
 
Not intending to sell, this gun has been totally sand blasted and finished matte blue. I have two other 1955's so I know how they look, just would like all to match.
 
Now "sand blasted" tells us the whole story.

I couldn't stand a gun like that in my collection and I'd want it to be original and match my others as well. I'd sell it, search for another, and even pay more rather than put my money down a hole in that gun.
 
If you like the gun I would restore it to an original level finish providing the gun overall hasn't been damaged and the letting and emblem are sharp.. I professional restored gun that was damaged is beautiful thing..
 
Last edited:
Prices: Fords Custom Gun Refinishing in Crystal River, Florida

Hondo44, was the above link supposed to display a current price list? When I go to it, no prices are displayed.

Bruce
 
Last edited:
Bruce,

Yes it used to. Now it just takes you to his contact info. The one you posted is incorrect.

The top link still takes you to his website but it's an all new site and it no longer posts a price list.
 
"Fitting a Colt cylinder" isn't as easy as it sounds. The 45 Colt cylinder is too long to fit as the barrel on this model protrudes farther into the frame window.
 
The only way I've seen it done is to shorten the barrel to accommodate the longer 45 cylinder and then modify another 45 Colt cylinder into 45 ACP to fit the modified barrel dimensions. Seems like a lot of effort and expense. I just bought a 25-5 and called it a day.

Over the years I've had a couple of convertible guns but I soon lost my fascination with them.
 
The better way to add a .45 Colt cylinder to a .45 ACP S&W is to start with a .38 Special or .357 cylinder and re-chamber it to .45 Colt. You can leave the barrel alone. The .38/.357 cylinder will be long enough to shoot just about all factory .45 Colt ammo.
 
Let's not under think this. Not all 45 Colt cylinders are too long.

The simplest swap is to start with a pre 25-5 (pre 1978) correct length 45 Colt cyl. Or a post 1978 long cylinder and face off the front of the cyl. to proper length. No barrel modifications needed.

Either is a lot easier than reaming a 357 cyl and you'd have factory 45 chambers/extractor star.
 
Last edited:
I didn't know a 357 cylinder was shorter than a 45 Colt. I have heard that any shortening of the cylinder makes using heavy bullets impossible. Not a problem if you only use lighter slugs but I would want any conversion to function properly with any ammo.
 
That would normally be a good practice.

But in the context of this discussion, post #6, about fitting a convertible 45 Colt cylinder to an ACP frame and still have the original ACP cyl works as well, the barrel forcing cone can not be shortened.
 
Last edited:
SaxonPig, just about all factory .45 Colt ammo works just great in the shorter of the two .45 Colt cylinders, so there isn't a problem here.

The Model 25-3 125th Commemorative was the first production and cataloged .45 Colt from S&W. The cylinder used is about .08"-.10" shorter than the cylinder in the Model 25-5. S&W made more of these shorter cylinders than they did guns, and until they ran out of them, you could have their service department fit one to your 1950 or 1955 .45 ACP, to have a convertible. It was the same length cylinder that S&W used for any special order .45 Colt they made before 1977.

The only "ammo length problem" you may encounter is heavy bullet boutique stuff, reloads with some cast bullets (like Lyman's 454424 SWC) and... that's about it.

The standard factory .45 Colt ammunition with the 250-255 grain conical round nose lead bullets from Winchester and Remington, the Winchester 225 grain Silvertips, the Federal swaged SWC lead bullets and various 'cowboy' factory loads all fit the shorter S&W cylinders just fine.
 
Last edited:
The original poster is a gunsmith who has already "done it before," so I expect he will add a .45 Colt cylinder his favorite way regardless of what we opine. That said, I would not spend the money to wind up with over size throats which all the shorter old .45 Colt cylinders have. Facing off a longer cylinder is a good way to get correct B/C gap with both cylinders. You might still have to work on yoke tube length or shims to get correct end shake with both cylinders.

I bought a 25-3 short cylinder .45 Colt about 1980. It had .458" throats. It only shot accurately with cast bullets from ~ 340 grain .45-70 rifle molds. As you know, cartridge OAL depends on nose shape and the location of grooves you can crimp into. At least for handloaders the shorter cylinders do not preclude all the heavier bullets.
 
The same short cylinder problem exists with M27 ad M28 cylinders and long heavy bullets. The solution is to use a bullet with two crimp groves, or to crimp over the front of the first band just as reloaders have done for the past 75 or more years.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top