223 in mil cases

gsfxst

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I have been using H335 with 25.o gr over 55 gr bullets .commercial brass in a AR with a 223 wylde barrel i have a lot of H335 and 55 gr bullets .I've been given 1000 rounds of 5.56 once fired brass. I know that there is a difference in case volume. I cant find any date for 55gr. and H335 I've been told to reduce charge buy 3to 4 grans. for mil brass . any one have a load .
 
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I have been using H335 with 25.o gr over 55 gr bullets .commercial brass in a AR with a 223 wylde barrel i have a lot of H335 and 55 gr bullets .I've been given 1000 rounds of 5.56 once fired brass. I know that there is a difference in case volume. I cant find any date for 55gr. and H335 I've been told to reduce charge buy 3to 4 grans. for mil brass . any one have a load .

Check Hodgdon's web site for possible suggestions.
 
You can measure the case volume to see if there is a difference
 
Warren is exactly right for 223 and 5.56 brass. I just try to separate the lots by headstamp but don't worry about 223 or 5.56 and adjusting powder for each.
 
I load 24.0 grains of H335 and 55 grain FMJ's in any 223/5.56 brass. Good all around load for my AR with mid-length 16" barrel. 25 grains and it feels like it's slamming on the buffer, 23 or less and accuracy starts to go away and ejection is all over the place. Works well in my son's AR too with carbine gas 16" barrel. Just feels a little hotter.
 
load

I have been using H335 with 25.o gr over 55 gr bullets .commercial brass in a AR with a 223 wylde barrel i have a lot of H335 and 55 gr bullets .I've been given 1000 rounds of 5.56 once fired brass. I know that there is a difference in case volume. I cant find any date for 55gr. and H335 I've been told to reduce charge buy 3to 4 grans. for mil brass . any one have a load .

Keep on with your existing load......I have fired many thousands of the same at Montana Prairie Dogs with great results!

Randy
 
I use 5.56 brass almost most exclusively do to the price and load to .223 data. My only recommendation would be to trim the brass to .223 length before loading.
 
Military and civilian brass in this caliber are essentially identical, allowing for lot-to-lot and manufacturing tolerances.

Some commercial .223 brass weighs more than GI brass. Changing propellant charges is not anything to worry about. It's more important to find the bullet and propellant that works best in your gun. I shoot mixed GI and commercial brass with no concern. It is important to trim all brass to the same length and find the best seating depth for whatever bullet you use to get the best grouping. If you are more concerned about making noise than getting tight groups, ignore my comments.
 
The warning about military brass being of less volume is true for .30-06 and .308/7.62 x 51 mm. The general advice is to reduce loads by about 1.5 gr when using military brass at near to maximum loads. 3 to 4 grains is absurd.

While the same warning is given for .223/5.56 x 45 mm brass, as noted above, there doesn't seem to be a significant difference in volume between commercial and military brass. Remember the cartridge was derived from existing commercial cartridges and was intended from the start as a military round.

Don't forget you need to remove the crimp around the primer pocket in military brass before reloading the first time.
 
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I buy bulk once fired Lake City 5.56 brass because of its quality and uniformity. Plus the Lake City cases are made of harder brass.

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Info above from https://www.accurateshooter.com/
 
Great info above. Im a big fan of using military brass and its almost all I use in AR's except for lost brass matches. Reducing by 3-4 grains is ludicrous, don't do it.

The military load for a 55 grain projectile in M193 ball is about 26 grains of H335. Lots can vary a bit because they're not using canister grade powder. Yes this is above the manual. YMMV always work up and look for pressure signs.
 
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