247 Lbs. or 500 Lbs. in my UDR?

dwever

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I apologize if this is hashed over in the past. Since shelving my carry Glock for a Perf. Ctr. 627 8 shot .357 some months ago, I have been undecided for two months on carry ammo: .357 or .38 +P Image Here: http://www.pbase.com/image/140061203

On the one hand, I love Federal Premium Personal Defense Ammunition .357. It packs a wallop at 490 Lbs. of muzzle energy and the other Federal .357 I carry rural comes in at 609 Lbs! (I practice with much less expensive .357 PMC JSP with over 500 Lbs. of muzzle energy).

Beyond ten yards though, accurate follow-up shots with .357 slows down for obvious reasons, while using a good .38+P like Winchester PDX1 JHP bonded Personal Protection I can remain fast and accurate with the big N frame but of course muzzle energy now is significantly less at 247.

So, when you carry, which is most likely to serve you well? 8 JHP's on target very fast in a comparatively lighter .38 +P? Or, reducing your follow up speed a bit in order to accurately send .357 rounds screaming down range?
So
 
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In a light weight 357, yes I think I would use 38 +P.

Just for clarification in the discussion, the S&W UDR (PC 627) is hardly a light weight, 627's from the Perf Ctr. come in at 37.6 oz., 44 oz., and 47 oz. (depending on barrel), these are among the heaviest S&W .357's. with the UDR having the 2.625" barrel.*


*For comparison an L Frame 686 .357 w/4" barrel is 39.7 oz. Other N frame .357's get down to 21 oz., and a small frame .357 actually goes down to 11.4 oz. in the 340PD alloy.
 
Just for clarification in the discussion, the S&W UDR (PC 627) is hardly a light weight, 627's from the Perf Ctr. come in at 37.6 oz., 44 oz., and 47 oz. (depending on barrel), these are among the heaviest S&W .357's. with the UDR having the 2.625" barrel.*


*For comparison an L Frame 686 .357 w/4" barrel is 39.7 oz. Other N frame .357's get down to 21 oz., and a small frame .357 actually goes down to 11.4 oz. in the 340PD alloy.

Well, I'm not up to snuff on revolvers. But you know what I mean. If you can handle the recoil and get quick accurate shots with 357 then use it. ;)
 
Here's my opinion:

If you are going to carry a relatively heavy revolver with a bulky frame and it is chambered for .357 Magnum, then carry .357 Magnums. If you are going to carry .38 specials, why on earth would you want to lug around a gun that weighs almost twice as much as a Chief's Special J- Frame?

If you practice once or twice a month with the smaller J-Frames, controlability, accuracy and proficiency will not be any issue.

I am not trying to start a p******g match here, but I never quite understood why guys who carry a revolver on a daily basis would subject themselves to the extra weight, bulk, and concealability issues of a gun any larger than they can comfortably handle. If you are able to shoot +P's out of a J Frame and hit your target consistently, accurately, and reliably, why carry a bigger package just to shoot the same bullet?? Never made sense to me.

When I first started packing, my first carry gun was a 2" RB M10. After carrying it for a few years, I figured out that the one extra round it held was not worth the extra bulk, weight and discomfort over a Model 60. Carry options are also less variable. You can not pocket carry a 4 or 6 inch
gun, and the larger / heavier guns are more likely to be placed in a draw or left somewhere rather than being on your person if the gun you are carrying is uncomfortable.

Just makes sense to me.

Regards,
Chief38
 
If you are able to shoot +P's out of a J Frame and hit your target consistently, accurately, and reliably, why carry a bigger package just to shoot the same bullet?? Never made sense to me.

I can meet the conditions of consistency, accuracy, and reliability with my back up Glock 27 carried on duty. However, it still makes sense for me to keep my full size Glock 22 in my duty holster as I am more accurate still, and certainly faster.

In the same way, my Model 60 does the job consistently. But generally shooters find bigger packages over compacts or sub-combact allow them to shoot the same bullet accurately at greater distance, with more rounds, and with increased speed, and therefore make the sacrifices to use the bigger weapons because of the profound advantages (not to mention in my case three extra rounds).

I'm carrying .357 in my revolver now because I figure the increased stopping power and dramatic increase in energy offsets the slowing down a bit during rapid fire in order to stay accurate. I also have more confidence shooting through things such as a car door. However, if the 38+P has all, or close to all the stopping power I need, then the .357 may be in some ways overkill, and I can use the big N frame to help tame the +P's at very rapid fire with accuracy. I know very little about +P against .357 in personal defense, and that is the essence of my inquiry.
 
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IMHO, 38+p is no match against 357 mag.

Since recoil is different for us all, only you will know which you can shoot effectively in your carry gun.

How well do you shoot your G27? The recoil on those isn't exactly fun. I'm willing to bet full power 357 won't bother or slow you down enough to consider 38 +P.

Along with what the Cheif says, if I carry a j frame then I carry 38 +P. If I carry my mod 19 then I use 357.
 
How well do you shoot your G27? The recoil on those isn't exactly fun.

For as small as the G27 is I love it. When I got one from an LE dealer in Anniston, Alabama three years ago it caused me to retire my S&W Model 60 which I only use now for pocket carry; G27 has double the rounds, superior Trijicon night sites, and my magazines on my duty belt are compatible when in uniform.
 
Another consideration that I take into account is the setting that I'm most likely to be using any gun/ammo combination. For instance I work in a pretty small town but a town none the less where people, buildings and vehicles can be concentrated. I'm not sure a 158gr .357 mag would be a good idea here. A 125gr .38 +P may be a better choice. Along those lines if you are in a populated area your ability to control shot placement is even more important. Less recoil would help with that. Just a thought.
 
Hi,

Here's a suggestion that, I think, will answer the question for you . . . based on my experiences. Hope it helps! . . .

Take the M27, and other handguns you are considering, and shoot several competitive handgun matches (steel and/or bowling pin) against experienced area handgun competitors. In these matches, the fastest times to ACCURATELY engage all the targets wins . . . and it is eye-opening sometimes to discover the results that are best for you! It might just save your life one day by having the CORRECT handgun in your hand that fits YOU best . . . when shooting AT SPEED.

In a match, or on the street, one simply cannot miss fast enough and win. ALSO, shoot capable ammunition that is effective BUT that gives you the capability to shoot very fast and ACCURATE follow-up shots into your target. You simply cannot miss fast enough and win! If the torque twists the gun in your grip out of line in the slightest, you WILL miss when shooting at speed when the chips are down.

My results have shown me that:

1. I had to forget the high cap 1911. Strangely, when shooting this very accurate 1911 while plinking at the range the pistol IS a tackdriver

BUT in a very fast match . . . and in my size hand, the torque during recoil would move the gun slightly in my grip, and a very accurate handgunner (like myself) becomes a terrible shot when the grip is slightly wrong. In a match, and on the street, one can't call a short "time out" to regrip the gun. FOOD FOR THOUGHT if it affects you!

2. In a standard sized 1911 I shot it well . . . but not as well as my S&W revolvers (J-K-L and N frames all).

3. The Glocks pointed different, and the blockier grip also prevented me from excelling at matches at speed. Other high cap pistols also weren't as good in my grip and would cause me to miss at speed as the grip changed under torque. HOWEVER . . .

4. My S&W revolvers fit my hand so well in all grip sizes, with the proper stocks/grips, that the revolvers allowed me the identical grip with each and every shot . . . and gave me stunning accuracy all the time during competitive matches.

BOTTOM LINE . . . I'm faster from the holster, faster shooting double action, swinging from target to target . . . and faster engaging ALL targets I must hit, than when I shoot automatics (or when others I compete against with automatics can shoot there's in my area matches!

There's an old saying, when things are on the line under stress . . . you can't miss fast enough!

Now when the matches, just as on the streets, require several fast RELOADS . . . or shooting more than six really fast shots that miss . . . the high cap bottom feeders USUALLY win out for most shooters.

HOWEVER . . .

1. IF you shoot your Smith revolvers as well as I suspect you do, you already know that you'd rather have six fast, accurate shots from your 627, than have a lesser chance of hitting your target with the first six rounds from your pistols. For the "average" cop who does not excel in handguns, high cap pistols make a lot of sense. For YOU the answer I suspect is quite different!!!

2. If you shoot and reload your S&W revolvers with a certain level of mastery, your times/scores at steel matches will clearly bear out the fact that, FOR YOU, you are better off with your M627 at your side!

3. A lot of revolver + auto competitors have learned that they are better with their Smith revolvers too . . . and their times are better with a Smith revolver than with their tricked out, auto raceguns . . . AND better than those other folks shooting who never mastered revolvers.

Sorry for the long reply . . . but you deserve a thoughtful reply, for your life is on the line every day and I appreciate your service! Stay safe . . . and shoot your best when you have to, no matter what weapon is in your hand!

Tom

PS: If you want to read more about my two days that were most enlightening to me. I'd have never believe it until experiencing the first story below:
___________
1. I shot an area steel match about ten years ago, both with my Colt Combat Elite 1911 .45ACP, and with my moon-clipped Model 625 .45ACP revolver. Won the revolver class . . . got beat by several other competitors in the stock 1911 class.

After the matches had concluded, there was a "winner-take-all" cash pot for those who wanted to shoot a special match. Here's the situation:

- EIGHTEEN heavy steel plates and poppers, spread out in about a 90 degree arc in front of the shooter (at distances varying from ten to abt. 35 yards.

- Handguns start UNLOADED, in a pistol box

- One MANDATORY RELOAD required (to handicap anyone choosing to bring a full-size Glock 9mm to the line and use the 33rnd magazines) LOL

- The FASTEST time to clear all the plates and poppers wins all the money! Like in life . . . second place gets nothing! Surely not a match that favors six guns, one would think!

For this match I brought out my chopped barrel (to 3 1/4") Model 25-2 .45ACP to the line, backed by an initial 6-rnd. moon clip to load, and three moon-clips on my belt. You should have heard the ribbing I got . . . but this revolver is like magic in my hand and I can reload my moonclips as fast as I can a 1911. Here's the gun, though with Hogue rubbers installed for the match:

5430384896_a8db5a286b_b.jpg



BOTTOM LINE: I loaded, shot fast, never missed and reloaded fast too and . . .

In the end, I kicked all 35 or so who'd jumped in to win that money! Second place was a guy shooting a customized but "stock" 1911 single stack but using 10 round extended 1911 magazines. He cleared all the targets over two seconds SLOWER . . . you simply can't miss fast enough and win!!!

The worst finishers were the two guys shooting Glock 17s with several 33-round magazines "in case" they missed. One shot over 100 rounds and the more he shot the jerkier he missed! Last place shot nearly 125 rounds before he ran out of ammo in front of the crowd and got a DNF.

AGAIN . . . SHOOT TO WIN WITH SOMETHING YOU ARE BEST WITH!


2. This past October I shot another steel match. I'm now 60 and my eyes aren't quite as good and I haven't shot much competitively in a few years. I decided to take two revolvers that are older than me to compete with in revolver classes, just for fun.

This match simply requires competitors to HIT a steel plate, on four different-layout stages of fire.

- Each stage has five targets at different distances.
- You can load as many rounds as your handgun in that class holds, and you can sit your reloads on a table next to you if you need them.
- Thus, IF YOU DON'T MISS, you only shoot five rounds at a time.
- I didn't even take a speedloader to the line with me. Heck, if I miss a plate I STILL had a back up round in the revolver . . . and if I need to reload I've lost anyway. Same in life!!!
- The shooter repeats that same stage FIVE times and they drop the slowest time.
- BOTTOM LINE: At the end of the entire match a competitor must hit 100 targets and your total time for the 100 determines the winner in each class.

EYE-OPENING RESULTS THAT YOU MIGHT FIND ARE TRUE FOR YOU TOO . . .

1. I won both revolver rimfire and centerfire categories. Yea, I never missed more than one target in a field of five plates . . . and I didn't miss any of the five many times either (but needed the extra round on a couple.

2. I won the rimfire auto class

3. Got beat by a could in stock centerfire auto class

4. Beat a good "young buck" shooting that new S&W Performance Center 686 7-shot revolver. He shot .38 Specials in that .357 . . . but you can't miss fast enough and win!

5. BOTH of the top two centerfire revolver scores beat ALL the centerfire pistol shooter's times!!!

The day's best total times to react to buzzer and engage 100 targets:

Me, CF revolver: 83.95 sec.
2nd, CF revolver: 94.30
1st, CF pistol: 100.31
2nd, CF pistol: 103.35
3rd, CF pistol: 117.10

I won't report the other scores . . . there's no second place winner, much less a third in life! LOL BTW, I finished 4th in production auto after an equipment malfunction (failure to feed) that I cleared swiftly. Dang high cap bottom feeder!

Here's the old revolver I used to win, including over that new PC 686 seven shot . . . a humble old Model M&P with fixed sights from 1950. I'd never shot it much . . . and never in a match. I did add a Tyler T-grip to it so the gun would remain properly in my grip! Not too shabby for a couple of 60 year old farts (me and the gun)!:)

Hope this helps . . . and trust that revolver if, like for me, it works best for you.

2454099IMG2078p-pi-c.jpg
 
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If I ws carrying a 357 Mag revolver I think I would carry 357 Mag ammo.
In the city I would carry 125gr HP's.
If I worked in the country, I would carry 158gr bullets.

I have carried 44 Mag revolvers, 45 ACP revolvers, 1911's in 45 ACP, and at the end, because of the rules, a Glock 17.

With a revolver you have less rounds in the gun vs a semi auto, and your reload is slower, so I prefer to carry a more powerful round, plan on shooting a little slower, and getting better hits.

This was my "plan". Durring my carear I started out with the Mod 29, went to the 1911, by choice, and then because of a rule change, went back to the Mod 29, then another rule change, to the Mod 25 in 45 ACP, then another rule change to the Glock.

So, I have done the full Monte so to speak with duty guns.

My plan worked, at least for me, as I retired after 30 years still alive...
 
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