25-5 frame tigger pin fix???

[Model29-26.5]

I recently picked up a 25–5.
It has a service trigger in it and I was hoping to be able to drop in a target trigger if I was lucky but not so. I’ll have to take it to my local Smith..
But, in opening up the side plate, I discovered a fix that had been done to the pin that the trigger pivots on.
I’m wondering if Smith ever made the 25–5 with a floating pin? Or if it was indeed a fix.?
The pin is not fixed, and the end that sits in the side plate hole is more pointed, while the end that sits in the frame is convex while there is a little concave area in the frame.
The pin is obviously tiny and can only be put through the hole in the trigger from the side that sits against the frame. It won’t drop in “frame end first” through the trigger from the top. Hope that makes sense sense?
I’m just wondering if anyone has come across a fix like this before?
It’s a pretty cool way of dealing with a broken pin, but I’m wondering if it was made like that by Smith to begin with after a certain date??
I hope this is clear.

Thanks for any info.

 

[Protocall_Design]

That is not factory, and is a poor fix. The best way to do that is to drill and ream a .001 undersized blind hole in the frame and press the pin into it. The pin needs to be long enough to go most of the way into the sideplate hole after being pressed into the frame hole. If the hole in the frame is a slip fit to the pin, the pin can be Loctited into the frame hole with #620 or #680 green Loctite retaining compound. After the Loctite sets up, the pin will be rigid.

The trigger pivot pin is an oddball, proprietary size, at .100 inch. The trigger stop pin in the middle of the rebound spring on many S&W revolvers, is exactly the right diameter, it just needs to be cut to length.

 

[Model29-26.5]

That is not factory, and is a poor fix. The best way to do that is to drill and ream a .001 undersized blind hole in the frame and press the pin into it. The pin needs to be long enough to go most of the way into the sideplate hole after being pressed into the frame hole. If the hole in the frame is a slip fit to the pin, the pin can be Loctited into the frame hole with #620 or #680 green Loctite retaining compound. After the Loctite sets up, the pin will be rigid.

The trigger pivot pin is an oddball, proprietary size, at .100 inch. The trigger stop pin in the middle of the rebound spring on many S&W revolvers, is exactly the right diameter, it just needs to be cut to length.

Interesting.
The fix in mine seems to work fine as the side plate holds it in place, but it is not secured in place.
I wondered if there is a standard fix and yours seems to be it. So, no micro welds… just loctite.
Is that stronger than JB weld?

 

[Protocall_Design]

JB Weld is too thick a viscosity to work in this application.