29-10 Classic Disappointment

[Whino83]

I recently picked up a 29-10. I had been looking for an old one for a while locally without any luck and I came across one of the new ones and after handling it and looking it over I bought it. I got it home and immediately went to clean all of the oil and fingerprints off of it from the gun shop and once I had it cleaned and lubed (cleaned with hoppes elite and lubed with Rem-Oil) I noticed on the barrel and cylinder the finish looked milky or almost faded in spots. And then I found along the top edge on each side of the barrel you can see tooling marks running the length of it. I cleaned it again and lightly oiled it again with no improvement. I am sick. Totally not what I expected on a Smith. I sent customer service an email and I'm waiting on a reply which said could take up to 5 days. I've never had any trouble out of any of my smith's, ever. Am I missing something on the finish? As in am I not cleaning it correct? I can tell this "new" finish is different than my older blued smith's.

And to top that all off I took it to show my dad and he notices on the end of extractor rod it had been ground down so it would fit I guess with the bare metal exposed. They didn't even take the time to deburr it. This is the only time I have ever been disappointed in Smith & Wesson. I'm not sure if I should wait on the email or if I should give them a ring. I've even considered just taking it on the chin and trying to live with it.

 

[dogdoc]

I see tooling marks on the old ones. Shoot it off a bench at 25 or more yards and see how it groups. That's what matters. It will likely shoot better than 1970s era. Finish varies on the old ones and I own many to look at. Post a picture of your problem so we can evaluate it.

 

[lrrifleman]

Whino, be careful how you clean your New Smith! I vaguely remember reading (perhaps here) that Hoppes is pure murder on the new process that Smith has adopted for gliding their carbon steel handguns.

 

[hkcavalier]

I had a couple milky spots on my 29-8. They look a lot better after a rubdown with a jeweler's polishing cloth. Not 100% gone, but 80-90%.

 

[Whino83]

I will get some pics posted after work. I will also look into the polishing cloth.

 

[Fishinfool]

That new model 29 may shoot great, but that is only part of the equation. Another factor is pride of ownership. The model 29 has always been a flagship model, and in my mind, I would expect a proper finish, with no obvious machine marks on the outside of the barrel. It's not a $400 mass produced plastic pistol.

No, not all older S&W's were perfect. In the days of hand fitting, a gun was only as good as the person assembling / finishing it, and not everyone had the same skill level. QC usually spotted the problems. Now, I think there is an over reliance on CNC / modern manufacturing methods technology. Very consistant when done right, but a real problem when there are issues, and QC is, seemingly, "out to lunch".

If you are not happy with it, call CS (don't wait 5 days for an email response) and explain the issues to a real live person. They should make it right, though it is irritating you have to play the role of QC inspector as well as customer.

Larry

 

[BubbaShakers]

I had similar issues with a 29-10 I recently bought. After getting it home and starting to clean it up, I noticed the cylinder face was scratched up, and the face of the forcing cone was extremely rough and burred, as if it hadn't been finished. In addition there were a couple of large patches under the top strap "in the white" where a tool had rubbed the finish off. It looked as if though the barrel was scratching the cylinder face, but the BC gap was actually .005 when measured with a feeler.

These were all admittedly minor cosmetic issues, but it irked me to the point I fired off an e-mail (with photo) to S&W CS. Within 48hrs I had a FedEx return label, and within 3 weeks I had the gun back. They ended up rebluing the entire gun. Although not noted in the work summary I got back, it appears they also de-burred the forcing cone. All done under warranty.

Bottom line: Definitely reach out to S&W Customer Service.

 

[Bill Lear]

Reading this made me get out my 25-15 for yet another close examination. The revolver is very close to flawless...the barrel is aligned dead center, zero tool marks, with blue-black mirror finish that collects fingerprints. It has the classic stamped markings and CCH hammer and trigger. The newer N frames have much better ergonomics in terms of trigger reach. The DA pull is somewhat heavy but smooth, and the SA let-off is classic S&W zero movement crisp.
The gun has perfect weight and balance thanks to the single-piece, 6.5" tapered barrel.
I even like the new classic stocks which are taller, and much narrower for better control feel. They wouldn't be good for the M29, but are just fine for factory .45 Colt ammo. The only negative I found is the stocks moved around on the frame when I got the gun. I went under the grips and added spacer material which has worked great. I also have a set of Pachmayr grips which would come into play for shooting hotter loads, but I prefer the look with the factory stocks.

I feel blessed to have gotten such a nice example and when I read these stories I wonder how such obvious flaws make it out of the factory.

 

[dogdoc]

Let's see if the new guy will post pictures? Then we can see. I have had defective ones from at least the 1970s(minor finish or tool marks). I bet I can find a blemish on just about all if I look hard enough. Now prewar smiths are a different animal. They are almost perfect. My 1940 k22 is perfect other than finish wear. My 57 classic is well finished and put together but I did recut the crown but that was just me tinkering. I did not have to do that but I am a performance nut and I was trying to get best accuracy. I really think many on this and other forums have unrealistic expectations. For 1000 dollars or so you are not going to get a handmade gun. Buy a Wilson combat of you want that bit you will pay a lot more.

 

[Whino83]

I ended up working a double and I can't get decent pictures in the house tonight. I'll have to take some in the morning when the sun comes up. The milky/discolored spots in the blueing run the entire length of the barrel on both sides. I can take my fingers and rub hard on the barrel and make them almost go away, but they're still there. In the sunlight when you hold it "right" it looks awful. The tool marks I'm not so much worried about because you really have to look hard for them, but being a tool and die maker I see them easily and it's like someone poking me in the eye. My opinion is different than the previous persons. If someone didn't care about a firearms appearance they wouldn't drop a grand on a new Smith & Wesson. They'd drop a lot less on a cheaper brand or used firearm. Your product is a representation of your company. I'd never would have sent that firearm out. But I will admit I am picky. My trade has given me a very keen eye. It is a blessing and a curse, haha. My opinion of smith & Wesson will never waiver. I love them, I own them, and will continue to buy them. Next time I buy a new one I won't just assume the finish is fine under the oil and fingerprints though like I did this time. I'm going to pick up a jewelers cloth and some renaissance wax tomorrow and see if that helps any. The gun is gonna be a shooter, not a safe queen.

I appreciate all of the responses. Does anyone have a suggestion for a holster? I'm a bigger fella and prefer a paddle holster. They don't seem to pull my britches down as much and they're more comfortable to me. I won't be carrying it often at all but when I do I want something nice.

 

[AManWearingAHat]

please post pictures when you get a chance. I would be interested

 

[Chino74]

Gary C's Avenger OWB HOLSTER EBAY. I have one for my 629, really like it. Well made and a good price.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

This has been discussed before. The current method of blueing S&W uses (environmentally friendly) does not have the deep luster the older version (not environmentally friendly) had.

And unfortunately the milky spots seem to happen with the new process. I have a M57-6 Classic & a M25-13 & both have those milky spots to different degrees. I don't like it but they're not major issues & the revolvers shoot great.

IIRC, other people have sent theirs back to S&W & were happy with the results.

I'd suggest you shoot it first though & make sure there aren't any other issues with it that might need addressing before you send it back for the blueing. Might save a second trip that way.

.

 

[Whino83]

I tried taking photos but I cannot get the lighting right to take pics where you can see what is going on with the blueing but wasn't able to get the lighting right.

 

[Whino83]

One more pic.

 

[Bubba2014]

Don't buy new Smiths, just keep looking for the old ones in good condition.

 

[MrG5122]

I agree that the new blue is not even close to the old days and that 29 definitely has some issues. That should never happen with an off-the-shelf Smith.
But, FWIW, the end of the ejector rod on all post-war blued Smiths were left "in the white", or unblued. My oldest post-war is a 1947 K38 and my newest is a 1980ish M48. These, and all the ones in between, have ejector rod ends that are unblued. The good thing is that is one of the easiest ways to spot a reblue.

 

[dogdoc]

Maybe try a very light rub with some flitz. Try on an area under the grips first. I have read it will shine blue up some but too aggressive and you will rub the blue off. Your gun does not look bad to me but I must not be as picky as some. Flitz is really mild and I have used it on milky nickel with great results. I notice variable blue on some of my newer guns going back to. 1980s or before so nothing new. Blueing now is more of a blackening.

 

[smithman]

That blueing looks crummy, op.

 

[bigfatty]

I feel so bad for you, OP. The finish is everything with that gun. Luckily for me, my model 19 classic is absolutely perfect in every respect. If it makes you feel any better, I took possession of my new 586 L comp today, and off it immediately goes to Smith & Wesson to sit for at least six weeks waiting for a canted barrel to be corrected.