29-2 factory grease?

[shawplat1]

I have a 29-2 6.5" N142XXX that I was told was unfired ANIB. The seller said that the gun had the original "factory grease", however, when I got the gun and looked it over, I noticed that this "grease" was almost like a brown/black tarry substance that the gun was coated in on its exterior. The funny thing is that upon removal of the grips, there was none of this grease present on the grip frame or sideplate in that area. My question is did the factory ever even put "grease" on the 29's in the 70's prior to shipment, and if so what was its color/consistency? I would also assume that if they did, then all of the gun would have been coated, even under the grips. Also, hoppes no. 9 or clp breakfree will not take this stuff off completely so would anyone have any recommendations on how to remove it?

 

[Ga Johnny]

Flitz polish will clean it off,

never heard of "factory grease" have heard of years worth of old dryed up oil and flith though

 

[BruceM]

You don't need Flitz. Just use some Hoppes #9 or other standard nitro solvent. It may take a little bit but it will come off. I remember going thru that with my first Smith N-Frame in 1978.



Bruce

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Factory doesn't lube from the factory. They are all dry insides!

 

[Mickey Rat]

Go to Wal-Mart and buy the cheapest carb cleaner they sell. It is several very potent solvents. Use an old toothbrush (make sure the cleaner won't dissolve the brush), remove the grips and have at it. Safety glasses are a good ideal, too (that stuff burns your eyes-voice of experiance). I use it on cosmoline and it works well. Caution: it will melt a lot of plastics.

It is also great for removing grease/cosmoline from a cracked wood stock before repairing with epoxy. Epoxy hint: heat the area witha blow drier first. The epoxy will wick (be sucked) into the crack and continued heating will pull the epoxy to the bottom of the crack and accelerate the curing.

 

[H Richard]

I use the Brake/Parts cleaner. It's not a potent as the carb cleaner, but does the job very well. Most brake/parts cleaners will not harm plastics, (as bad as carb cleaner anyway).

 

[shawn mccarver]

Use only Hoppes No 9. No Flitz polish, no sand paper, no scotch brite pads, no WD-40, and none of this other crap like carb cleaner or brake cleaner that people seem to push. Hoppes No 9 to remove any build up of old grease or oil. Good gun oil, used sparingly, for lube. If you do not have one, try Break Free CLP.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Regarding the post about the factory using no lube and shipping the guns out "dry inside," maybe they do not lube them now, although I am not sure I agree, but they certainly did then. This is a 29-2 he is talking about.

 

[BruceM]

"maybe they do not lube them now, although I am not sure I agree, but they certainly did then. This is a 29-2 he is talking about."

10-4 on that!



Bruce

 

[mikeruns]

I've seen some that seemed to have the oil from the original interior wrap paper turn to an almost cosmoline consistency from sitting for years in the box but it cleans off quite easily.

 

[def4pos8]

I agree with Shawn M. and mikeruns. I've purchased Smiths "goo-ed" both ways. Deteriorated lubricant can make sideplate removal and general disassembly a chore. A thorough bath in Hoppe's is usually enough. Careful use of a bronze brush is useful for the stubborn stuff at sideplate mating surfaces and internal bits.

A truly virgin piece likely won't need Flitz. I did purchase a 15-4 lately that suffered from light pitting (--and I MEAN LIGHT! It had only just begun.) everywhere except the barrel. Flitz was very useful in removing the rust and cleaning the surface, without altering the blue.

mikeruns: a humble S/F! from a Marine Dad, 1 each.

 

[TAROMAN]

I call bunk on the factory grease story. I bought my 29-2 new in 1975 (still shooting it). It came wrapped up in preservative paper. There was no grease on or in it anywhere, maybe a bit of oil or wax from the paper in a spot or 2.

 

[haris1]

factory grease or???

I bought a pre 29 that belonged to this guy's dad. he stored smiths for 25 years or so. when i received this pistol, the finish was excellent, 99 per cent plus, but when you cocked the hammer and pulled the trigger the trigger would not even return. removal of the sideplates and the internals revealed dried up stuff whether from the factory or poor maintenance by the owner. either way, a good cleaning of each part with hoppes and then a very coating of one of the new synthetic oils got it back to how it should be. I think a lot of people over lube their guns with oils that break down and then you have a very non responsive action.

 

[CT Smith Fan]

I have to go with the no grease crowd,NIB 29-2 s/n N195xx blue, oil, no grease,NIB 29-2 s/n N4294xx nickel finish, gun was dry,no grease.The original owner may have used a product to preserve the finish before putting your gun away.

 

[bluetopper]

Get an old rag and give it a bath in diesel. It's a great light oil solvent and makes the blue look wonderful. Blow off the excess with an air hose and wipe dry.

 

[mikeruns]

I agree with Shawn M. and mikeruns. I've purchased Smiths "goo-ed" both ways. Deteriorated lubricant can make sideplate removal and general disassembly a chore. A thorough bath in Hoppe's is usually enough. Careful use of a bronze brush is useful for the stubborn stuff at sideplate mating surfaces and internal bits.

A truly virgin piece likely won't need Flitz. I did purchase a 15-4 lately that suffered from light pitting (--and I MEAN LIGHT! It had only just begun.) everywhere except the barrel. Flitz was very useful in removing the rust and cleaning the surface, without altering the blue.

mikeruns: a humble S/F! from a Marine Dad, 1 each.

Oorah there Marine Dad! 1 each...haha!