3 or 4 die set

nagant

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Do i need the crimp die for low pressure .45 colt rounds or will a 3 die set work? Also is carbide dies really necessary for straight walled cartridges. Getting a lee hand press kit for now. Trying to get started reloading without wasting money on things i don't need yet and only shooting about 200 rnds a month. That's about $160 locally if in stock, thank you.
 
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Buy what you're going to end up with and don't waste money trying to be cheap. If you want to get into reloading, then spend the money and do it right. Jump in with both feet and get the proper equipment.

Reloading to save money is a myth. You reload so you can shoot more, not save money on your shooting.

But, yes you do need a separate crimp die, and carbide dies are well worth every penny. You can buy the carbon steel dies and then buy the carbide dies later, or you can save money and buy right the first time.

The Lee hand press kit is a waste of money. Get a good reloading press, mounted to a proper bench.
 
If you're only loading that many a month, a good Lee bench mounted single stage press works just fine. You can purchase one in a kit that also gives you the scale and powder measure. You'll need Lee dies for each caliber as well. Most dies you buy will be carbide so go with that. You should only have to spend less than two hundred for the whole setup. Finding powder is a whole different story. Make a list of acceptable powders for what you'll be loading and check regularly online to find what you need.
 
Using the Lee hand press will wear you out ! Its a lot of work, you are better off with a Lee single stage press, and in the long run, it will save you the trouble of junking your hand press, and buying a single stage later on. That's the savings right there, not having to buy stuff twice.
 
Lee Hand Press

I use a Lee Hand Press and regular 4 die sets for development work when I am working up loads for a particular bullet powder combination.

I use it for low volume work but you can load the volume you are looking for with it.

The nice thing about a hand press is that it is portable and you are not locked to a loading bench somewhere so you could take it to the range with you and load and shoot there.

It is also good for people with limited space.

I do brass processing with it for all straight walled pistol cases both rimmed and rimless and it works well for me.

I would not attempt to full length size rifle brass with it as you need more leverage than I at least can get with my hands pressing the levers together.

Once the load is developed I shift to a Dillon RL-550B to do volume loading.

Just my $0.02
 
Go with a hand press if you like,but get the carbide dies so you don't have to lube the cases .when you get a bench mounted press (and you will) put the old one on eBay.
 
Thanks everyone. Sorry if i confused the issue but i am not talking about the Leeloader but the breach block hand press kit Lee Breech Lock Hand Press Kit. I had a 357 leeloader years ago and not going back:rolleyes: Really was wondering if the bullet seating step would give enough tension for light loads. The magtech cowboy loads i get have 250 grain bullets at around 760 fps in a four inch brl according to the label. I 'm loading for a rechambered .455 2nd mdl hand ejector that's now 45 colt. I need a manual also as all i have is an ancient hodgdon manual from the late seventies:o.
 
I've been loading .45 Colt with Lee carbide 3-set dies for over 40 years. Even the Ruger-only high pressure loads. Got many a deer with that gun.

The bullet seating die is also a crimp die. If I had to buy new dies today I'd spend the extra $10 for the 4th die just because, but I'm not sure I'd ever use it.
 
Buy the 4 die set! Reasearch the bullet-seat/crimp combo die... Most reloaders have a difficult time getting both parts of the die adjusted to work right and end up getting a separate crimp die anyways.
 
I use the 4 die set for both .38 Special and .45 ACP. I like the 4th die. I seat the bullet to the depth I want with the seating die without using the crimp. I then put it through the 4th die to crimp and the Lee die also sizes again. I just like the final product I get doing it that way.
 
The LFCD, mostly a solution looking for a problem. I like to seat & crimp in separate steps on my progressive, but rather use a separate taper or roll crimp die. If you want to do the same, buying a 3 die set & addl seating die is. Better tool than the LFCD IMO. Resizing bullets in the case is a fix for poor dies or poor technique.
 
Others have differing opinions on the Lee FCD but I use them and like them.

I use carbide dies but I still spray a little RCBS case lube on the brass to save my old elbow.
 
I generally go ahead and buy the 4-die set even though most of the time I seat and crimp in one step with the seating die. The crimp die does have its uses.

More importantly, however, it adds ~$10 when you buy the die set, but is ~$18 when bought separately.

Carbide dies are well worth the money-I only buy steel dies when I can't get carbide(i.e. 32-20).

I loaded a whole lot of ammo on the Lee hand press(around 3000 rounds) before I bought a "real" bench mounted single stage press. It got me started and helped me realize how much I enjoy reloading, plus I still find uses for it even now that I have a better press. It has its short comings, but for for what it is and the for the price, I think it's a great choice.
 
I have used both the Lee hand loader and now have a Lee classic turret. I would also recommend spending the extra $50 bucks and get either a classic single stage press, or a classic turret.

I have carbide pistol caliber dies, and would not buy anything else. I like the factory crimp die for 9mm. I don't have one for .38, but have thought about getting one. It might be a solution in search of a problem for revolver cartridges.
 
I agree with fredj338, the FCD is made for people that don't want to learn how to reload. If you are using a single stage press, use the standard seat/crimp die in two separate steps.

I'm not a big fan of anything Lee, mostly because I have used most of their stuff at one time or another, it is mostly cheaply made and poorly designed, but in cases where cost is a major consideration it's about the only choice. The press you pictured is the one the others are telling you to avoid I believe. It can be pretty rough on your knuckles, and pretty wasteful if you have sweaty or slippery hands. Lee makes a little "C" type, bench mounted press that should sell for about the same price. It can be clamped onto a table or shelf and is a big step up from the bust developer.

If you ever do move up to better quality products, Lee doesn't fetch a big return on used equipment unless you can find a die hard Lee fan, like the guy on the local Craigslist. The presses can be handy for other stuff on the bench, if you have room, and the carbide dies will always be welcome as they are not as cheap with some of the other manufacturers. The standard seat/crimp die can be used as a fourth die for progressives as crimp die, they are lousy for seating.
 
When I first got in to reloading, I knew I wanted to start with a single stage press. One day at the range, a buddy of mine brought his lee hand press, he uses it when working on new loads for his a 308 rifle. I thought it looked cool asked if I could borrow it for a week, to see if I would really want one. Like you, I was on a budget and wanted to get started as fast and as cheap as possible. The only thing I bought for my test were some lee 45 acp 4 set dies. The only positive thing I can say is that you arms get a pretty good work while reloading. Completely change my mind, I ended up waiting three months and bought a Rcbs Rockchucker, highly recommended. It came in a pack that had almost everything you need to get started, plus a Speer manual, paid 289.00 (Amazon). As far as the dies go, carbide makes life easier, and most of my dies are lee dies. I like the FCD for semi auto calibers, especial 9mm, I find it makes a better feeding cartridge. For revolver cartridges I find it is unnecessary, but not bad to have for $10 more, you never know.
 
No, you don't need a separate crimp die. All you have to do is set up the seat/crimp die correctly. I've been using 3-die sets since 1975 and have yet to find the need for separate crimping with either lead or jacketed bullets.

Set your bullet depth, set the amount of desired crimp, lock in those settings and load away.
 
My 2 cents - I thought like a lot of the anti-Lee folks until yesterday. Been reloading since 1977 and never used a crimp die - always the RCBS combo die. I'm noticing my RMR (plated) bullet noses are getting deformed during the taper crimp process (9mm) and could be affecting accuracy I believe. Up to last couple years been shooting expensive HP's and switched to plated bullets due to interest in IDPA shooting.

I backed off the taper to almost nonexistant and had several FTF's yesterday. Only thing changed was the crimp reduction (wasn't much to start with). My fix for this is to add the LEE FCD die ordered last night. I've read a lot about crimp the last few weeks and there's definitely 2 sides to the discussion. Makes sense to crimp after the bullet is in and not together at the final stroke of the ram - at least for these plated bullets. Jury's out but right now I suggest the 4 die set. Also carbide is nice if you can afford it. All my handgun dies are carbide and I enjoy not wiping lube off the little rascals. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
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