.308" bullets that ain't!

STORMINORMAN

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Bought a hunch of "Factory Overrun" 130gr .308" JHPs (most probably SPEER) from Midway: these were NOT sold as Factory 2nds, BTW.

They all measure between .309 to .310". Loaded in 300 Blackout brass they won't go through the Lyman ammo checker (kinda hard to do a "plink test" in 300 Blackout)...:(

Any suggestions would be most welcome!

Cheers!
 
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Sorry to hear that the bullets are over sized.

Did you feel a little more resistance, when seating the bullets?

I don't think a .310" dia. bullet is a good idea in the 300 Blackout.
Maybe one that has had 50,000 rounds through it and the chamber might be a little sloppy?

I have seen some 7.62 bullets at .310" but never recall any .308
bullets with that large of a dia. marked on the ammo box.

Good luck with that.
 
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As a note;

stuff like that does happen now and then.

I have had "Cans" in a different area of a few bullets, a few Ogives that were wrong,
even wrong bullet tip designs in a box of factory ammo, mixed in.

Just the other day, I found out that one of my 9mm coated lead bullets had a few "Fat ones" in a box of 500 and that I had to reduce the OAL from 1.12". down to 1.10" so it would "Plunk" 100% of the time in one of my pistols, that has a tight chamber spec.

Ah, the joys of loading.
 
I don't know what the .300 blackout options are, but I've used a post sizing die for .32 ACP/7.65 Browning . In that cartridge the US made ammo is made with thinner brass at the mouth intended for .310" bullets, while most European made 7.65 Browning ammo is loaded into thicker walled brass and uses .308" bullets.

For post sizing in .32 ACP / 7.65 Browning I use a Lee factory crimp die with the carbide sizing ring, intended for the longer .32 S&Ws, .32 H&R and .327 Federal, but add a spacer above the collet to make it work with the shorter .32 ACP.

It may work just fine with .300 blackout where you'd be working with thicker brass and a nominal .308" bullet. What you'd be doing is resizing the bullet down to .308", but with the bullet in the case.

On one hand those resized bullets might lose some accuracy, but on the other hand it sounds like they vary a lot in diameter anyway so the net result will probably be an improvement.

You'd need to adjust the die higher in the tool head or press, but it should work.
 
Thanks for the prompt advice: I am waiting for a response from Midway. I'll be doing the micrometer vs.caliper measurement as well. But the bullets don't drop through the bottom of the 300 Blackout ammo checker.

Fact is that when loaded they don't make it the Lyman Ammo Checker, and I don't think it has anything to do with my reloading regimen. But I've been wrong before!

Cheers!
 
Those 130 grain will work in a 7.62x39 and make a fine target bullet. OR-- You can resize them with a 450 Lyman lube sizer by taking the bottom screw out and let them free drop or a STAR lube sizer will work as is.

that was my immediate thought.
 
A lot of 300BO brass is made from 5.56 NATO brass and trimmed to length. I do that too. But I use a .308 ream on the inside of the neck so the necks are the "Correct" wall thickness. My chamber will accept .311" Dia. bullets in that brass, but not "formed & trimmed only" brass.

If loading subsonic 200gr+ loads, oversized bullets don't affect Chamber pressure enough to cause a pressure problem. In a bolt gun, You might get a huge extreme velocity spread. And might even venture over the speed of sound here and there. But as far as the AR's go, you will function just fine. At least mine dose.

Ivan
 
Get a Lee or NOE push-thru .308 sizer , if you don't have a Lubri-sizer . I ran into a similar situation with a tight throated barrel .
 
Get a Lee or NOE push-thru .308 sizer , if you don't have a Lubri-sizer . I ran into a similar situation with a tight throated barrel .

This might work, but I'd be concerned about a reduction in accuracy and possibly loosening the lead core inside the jacket. Sizing a jacketed bullet is a lot different than sizing a cast bullet and possible bullet distortion would be a much bigger factor with a jacketed bullet. If I had to do it, I'd perform the operation in two steps.
 
Is this them?

Factory Overrun Bullets 30 Cal (310 Diameter) 130 Grain Jacketed

The ad (now?) states .310d



Then they also have 'Speer' .308d 130gr,,but not listed as factory overrun.
Speer Varmint Bullets 30 Cal (308 Diameter) 130 Grain Jacketed Hollow

Thanks for the info! Obviously they had sent me the .310 bullets in error, the .308 "Speer" ones would have been the correct size. As far as the change in their ad/catalogue, I guess we'll have to see their response to me...?

I do find it interesting that my Order record for the purchase clearly states .308 diameter. When you click on the product on the screen it now shows the diameter as being .310, but all the same info: Midway product number, manufacturer number and upc code.:rolleyes:

Cheers!
 
Thanks for the info! Obviously they had sent me the .310 bullets in error, the .308 "Speer" ones would have been the correct size. As far as the change in their ad/catalogue, I guess we'll have to see their response to me...?

I do find it interesting that my Order record for the purchase clearly states .308 diameter. When you click on the product on the screen it now shows the diameter as being .310, but all the same info: Midway product number, manufacturer number and upc code.:rolleyes:

Cheers!

In that case, when you email them with a copy of your purchase record showing it was listed as .308, I'm willing to bet they will just ship you the speers in the quantity you ordered and tell you to just keep the wrong bullets. Two or three years ago they sent me the wrong bullets and the right ones were out of stock by then. They had no idea when they would be back in stock and offered me any other similar bullet they had in stock or a refund. I took the refund and they said to keep the wrong bullets.

Hope you get the speers, in my 9.5" 1-8 twist faxon barrel they just don't care how I load them, powder and OAL doesn't matter much at all for accuracy(fps is a different matter of course), they are just plain stupid accurate and are still mushrooming a lot in water jugs far enough out they are down to around 1450 fps.
 
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When I have to resize a jacketed bullet I put it in the sizer nose first and push from the back all the way through the sizer. You still need a little lube--lots of different lubes work. The nose is untouched. If you worry about a little scuff mark on the bullet think about what it looks like when the rifling gets through with it.
 
Couldn't resizing a jacketed bullet possibly cause the copper jacket to separate from the lead core? Lead has very little spring back but I bet the copper has some.

I know people swage jacketed bullets but I don't know the process, so maybe it's not a problem.
 
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