32-20 bulged barrels

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I have seen a lot of references to this caliber's reputation for bulged barrels, more so than other calibers.
I'm wondering if it was an ammunition problem or maybe a too tight bore for different ammo or what?
Anybody shed some light on this ?
 
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No first-hand experience, just speculation:

My suspicion would be that the relative scarcity of ammo for sale after the caliber's popularity dropped rapidly after the 1920s may have resulted in a disproportionately high number of folks endeavoring to hand-load.

And that would inevitably result in more people messing up, in addition to those buying into the notion that this was a particularly hot load that could "shoot plum through a man", and stuffing their hand-loads accordingly, which could lead to other issues.
 
I can't answer the question as to the how and why but several years ago I picked up an early S&W, 4" brl, round butt for a very good price. The seller told me the barrel was bulged but truthfully had he not told me I would have never known. I simply cannot tell and it has no effect on the shoot ability and accuracy. I bought it as a shooter and it has never failed me. Fun gun to shoot.
 
Another thought: The average handgun owner neglected to clean the bore leading to dirty bores and using old ammo that was available sooner or later a squid load was encountered and the next fired round would budge the barrel.
I have encountered many revolvers that was in great condition on the outside but with pitted bores and cylinders.
 
Another thought: The average handgun owner neglected to clean the bore leading to dirty bores and using old ammo that was available sooner or later a squid load was encountered and the next fired round would budge the barrel.

Jimmy—I was duck hunting in a coastal marsh and got one of those "squid" loads. (I thought that just happened to Navy Seals). Turns out too my legs sank down in the marsh to the point I couldn't budge either. Fortunately it did not effect the barrel of my 870.
 
I've always believed that bulged barrels were mostly the result of a defective / squib load that stuck in the barrel... followed by a live load. Shooting old and / or contaminated ammo might have contributed.
 
I've owned quite a few 32/20s and have never seen one with a bulged barrel. I would surmise that there aren't anymore 32/20s with bulged barrels than other cartridges. For barrel to bulge there has to be bore obstruction. Thinking over the possibles I would write this off as a wives tale. I have seen a few revolvers with bulged barrels, few, and they were all operator error and had nothing to do with cartridge.
 
Ralph I don't know if all the autocorrect/spel checkin' do dads are a help or a bothersome!

I disabled that function on my iphone.
Trying to throw a spanish word or something the phone didn't recognize resulted in an embarrassing text or a potential cause for
a hasty explanation.
Now I have only myself to blame.
 
Would almost had to have been caused by a squib load - or a reload without powder plugging the barrel - followed by firing another cartridge. That has nearly happened to me several times while firing revolvers, and is exactly why I never shoot rapid DA fire with a revolver. I have read that the old Thompson SMGs were very prone to getting bulged barrels. A shooter would get a squib load that lodged a bullet in the barrel and perform immediate action, causing a barrel bulge.
 
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I suspect that in many cases the bulge was from someone trying to fire the less expensive and easier to find 32 Long in a 32 WCF revolver.
 
I cannot prove it by statistics, but I have seen quite a number of 32-20 revolvers with bulged barrels, maybe because I looked for it when I saw a 32-20 ?
 
Ralph I don't know if all the autocorrect/spel checkin' do dads are a help or a bothersome!

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32-20 started in the black power era. As a re-enactor, BP has to be kept dry. Dampness might reduce the power on a load.
I had one squib with PD provided low bid reloads... during training I paid for myself. There was no powder. I was lucky it tied up my M66, preventing another round being fired... although I was ruled "dead" as far as the drill was concerned.
 
Most likely unnoticed squib, then the next round is fired...sometimes people are not aware and fire again.

This is something that needs to be discussed more in our hobby to new shooters. I tell them if it doesn't seem right, stop. Keep muzzle pointed in safe direction in the event it does not fire right away, then after some time inspect (safely) the bore. Wood dowel is a tool that should be in the range bag; albeit, this is an uncommon occurrence. Still need more awareness on this point, which does result in bulge barrel or catastrophic failure.
 
I will attest to the possibility of handloading error, I was in a hurry to get some rounds ready for shooting the next day. At that time I was crazy about using a sonic cleaner on my brass, I sonic cleaned a load of 32-20 brass and the next morning loaded up 50 rounds to shoot at the range. I did not immediately notice any difference in the rounds and was banging away at a fairly regular pace, single action as is my usual preference. I was into the third or fourth cylinder full when the hammer dropped and instead of a solid bang I got a pop, I recocked the hammer and then thought to myself...that was wierd. I lowered the hammer, opened the cylinder, unloaded and placed a thumbnail under the forcing cone looked down the barrel...dark, hmmmmm. That was my first squib load and the nearest I can figure was either caused by there still be some residual moisture left in that case which spoiled the powder or lack of powder...I have since gotten back in to the good habit of double checking to see if all cases have equal amounts of powder.
 
No offense taken.:)

Metal works too.

I have never had an issue in countless rounds where this shows up infrequently due to mostly handloads. If there are experiences where this has been an issue, OK. I suppose it could theoretically happen and then be incumbent on the person to notice any wood versus metal. Push forward so the bullet exits properly and not reverse.

Wood was recommended to me by the old timers, because metal could potentially scratch the rifling.

Bottom line in my opinion is this needs to be discussed more and thanks to the OP for the awareness of what likely happened.
 
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