32-20 @RD Hand Ejector 1st mdl

[Sig_Lover]

I am finding all sorts of S&W goodies logging my collection.
I think I have a 32-20 WFC Hand Ejector First Model. Barrel is less than 4" SN 2606. Info, condition, value. do I need a factory letter on this one and how do I get one?
THANKS!!

 

[DWalt]

I am finding all sorts of S&W goodies logging my collection.
I think I have a 32-20 WFC Hand Ejector First Model. Barrel is less than 4" SN 2606. Info, condition, value. do I need a factory letter on this one and how do I get one?
THANKS!!

What you have is a .32-20 Hand Ejector, Model of 1899 (AKA First Model). All 1899s were manufactured in the period of 1899-1902, so it is an old one. There were about 5300 of them made in .32-20 (called .32 Winchester at that time). They are desirable in any cosmetic condition so long as they are complete, original, and operable. In that condition, it would probably not be too difficult to sell it in the $500 range, possibly even a little more to some collector who needs an 1899 to fill a hole. A letter won't provide much history beyond the foregoing information, aside from the exact shipment date and to where it was first sent (usually to a S&W distributor). If knowing that is worth $75 to you, have at it.

BTW, the Model of 1899 was the first S&W K-frame revolver and for that reason it has historical significance. It is fortunate yours is not missing the extractor rod knob, as they are often lost, and virtually impossible to replace. The 1899 was also chambered in .38 Special, and quite a few more of those were made, around 20K. They were serial numbered separately from those in .32-20. You should be able to find a replacement screw for the upper sideplate screw which is missing.

 

[gmborkovic]

What a nice early 32-20. Clean all the holes out and go shoot it.

 

[Sig_Lover]

Thanks Guys. appreciate all the info

 

[JohnRippert]

Is it just me or does that strain screw look like it needs to be tightened?

 

[H Richard]

Yes, strain screw seem a little "proud" of the frame. I would just take a little copper wool (0000) well soaked with Kroil, and gently rub it down to clean it up, the a coat of Renaissance wax. Don't tighten the grip screw more than "snug", as those hard rubber grips that old can easily crack and break.

 

[mikepriwer]

Measure the barrel length from the front face of the cylinder to the end of the barrel. You can see that the barrel protrudes all the way through the frame, and up to about 0.006" from the front face of the cylinder. It will measure very close to 4".

The price estimates seem about right. You might find that the bore of the barrel is pitted. This is common for these early black-powder guns.

Mike Priwer