32 S&W Hand Ejector - 2nd Model, No Change - Disassembly question

[Hondo44]

garandsrus,

The very best way to to get a handle on judging % of finish is to pick up a copy of "The Blue Book of Gun Values", even an old used version as long as it has the pictures that are graded by finish in the front of the book or center of the book in the newer versions. They're published every year.

Just compare the various levels of finish with the % labeled, to the gun you want to grade. Easiest learning curve you'll ever have.

 

[Green Frog]

Remember two things, first, a formal grading of condition really only matters when buying or selling, and second, that gun is old enough to justify grading on the “NRA Antique Scale.” I’d give it good or better in that regard just from the pix you’ve shown us.

BTW, since you’ve expressed your interest in the gun as a “shooter,” I would suggest you might want to look for a set of “Regulation Police” grips for it. I find them to be a nice compromise satisfying feel, proportion, style, etc... they make your I-frame look like a miniature K-frame, which it kinda is! I’ve even got them (original from the factory!) on my HFT and Reg Police Target models. Your cleanup photos cut off just about where you would see the notch on the back strap, but I’m guessing it is there to accommodate those two screw target grips.

Let the fun begin! (Continue?)

Froggie

 

[glowe]

garandsrus,

The very best way to to get a handle on judging % of finish is to pick up a copy of "The Blue Book of Gun Values", even an old used version as long as it has the pictures that are graded by finish in the front of the book . . . [/QUOTE

Let's not forget that SCSW4 has two grading systems detailed, NRA and Nahas/Supica complete with pictures. I also think SCSW4 offers better narrative for S&W collectors.

 

[Hondo44]

I was reading another thread about a hand ejector and it’s condition rating and was wondering what the mine would be based on the pictures I posted. I am pretty sure it is not above “good” but am not sure it is that high. There is A lot of blue loss but no pitting so I would guess it is “fair”, but I really have no idea and am trying to get a little more educated.

Thanks in advance!

From your pics which is not a reasonable way to make an estimate, but just to give you some idea, I judge it at between 30 to 40%. Although there appears to be a lot of blue showing, it's very dull. Compare to the gun in post #5 of how it used to look.

From thw SCSW 4, it qualifies as NRA "Good" in the 1890 to 1920 period, pg. 28, which is 30% finish. So the two grading systems are compatible, but you do need percentage of finish to arrive at the 30% finish grading determination.

 

[Hondo44]

Your cleanup photos cut off just about where you would see the notch on the back strap, but I’m guessing it is there to accommodate those two screw target grips.
Froggie

The notch or rebate on the backstrap did not come about until ~ # 258,000 on the .32s. The 2 screw target grips do not need the notched backstrap as they predated it by about 3 decades.

Regulation Police square butt grips that require the rebated rd butt grip frame:

Photo credit: handejector

This shows special grip frame for Reg Police grips; notice the notched area on the bottom half of the grip frame backstrap:

Photo by handejector

Rear view:

Photo by handejector

I rather prefer the modified factory 2 screw target grips on the gun now.

 

[garandsrus]

Thanks everyone.... the pistol does not have the notch on the frame. I am happy with the current grips. They are different than the K frame grips and variety is good!

I have a couple older S&W in almost new shape so I am familiar with what a very nice one looks like. That’s part of the reason I bought this pistol. A month or so ago, I bought a Model 16 that is almost too nice to shoot (I have shot about 100 rounds through it) so wanted something in 32 S&W Long that was just a fun gun.

I do cast and reload for the 32 S&W Long. My normal mold is the Lee 311-93-1R, which is 93gr. I use the same bullet for the 32 S&W in an Iver Johnson top break but I load 3F powder for It with black powder lube in the bullet grooves. I haven’t shot the Iver Johnson yet.