325 TR sent back!

[likestoshoot2]

Originally posted by Cartouche:
but did you try any .45acp rim?
I don't know what the cost of rim 45's are compared to regular .45acp.

I did not know you could still get these? where?

 

[K4AA]

Twigs: how easy is it to replace the firing pin? I have a 327TRR8 with the same problem (not all ammo but an above average of light hits).

 

[dvincentp2]

No, I did not try any 45acp rim. As you can probably tell, I was just a little pissed at that point. By the way, still have not heard anything from S & W yet. I did provide my personal email!!!

 

[twigs]

Replacing the firing pin on the 325 TR was very easy. I have no gunsmithing experience although I watched both Jerry Miculek's videos before I tried. The videos dealt with hammer firing pins instead of frame but the best help I found was in the FAQ's on this forum. Basically, one small pin holds the firing pin in place. It is under compression but for me, the spring remained in the firing pin channel. I don't want to hijack the thread, but for me, it solved a 325 TR problem.

 

[TN RAT]

I don't know of anyone selling factory loaded 45 Auto Rim (I believe that is the official name.)

You can do a search on brass and reload your own, however. I seem to recall Starline Brass making the necessary brass.

 

[ewayte]

Black Hills offers a 170 gr. semi-wadcutter in .45 Auto Rim. Corbon makes a 165 gr. DPX round also. Double Tap also offers it as well.

 

[TN RAT]

Originally posted by ewayte:
Black Hills offers a 170 gr. semi-wadcutter in .45 Auto Rim. Corbon makes a 165 gr. DPX round also. Double Tap also offers it as well.

Thanks for the info. I did not know that.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by ENH:
My 325 TRD :

The name, "325 TRD" stands for Thunder Ranch Defense revolver, but in light of the experiences described on this thread, it could certainly stand for something else: 325 TRD.

 

[Stainz]

S&W does tweak the 625JM - and other revolvers - by grinding the bearing face of the strain screw. This shortens the screw - and can leave a sharp edge to go into the hollow rib of a Wolff ribbed mainspring. Whether a full power or reduced power spring, this lessens the pre-load on the spring. Sure, the trigger feels even better - but the strikes will produce some ftfs - even, in the case of a lightened spring, with Federal primers. This was the case in both my new 625JM and my new 627 Pro. A new full-length strain screw - gratis from S&W - fixed that in both cases.

I elected to use a reduced power spring in my new 617. I took another fellow's advice - bought 8-32 socket head SS set screws (2/$.56 at Home Depot!). I ground the end flat, cleaned the hole and screw with alcohol, and coated the upper part of the set screw with blue Loctite. After solidifying, I screwed the screw in until the trigger felt similar to other K/L/N frame triggers in DA - using snap caps, of course. That did it - works great and pops el-cheapo .22 LRs day in/day out.

So... the problem in ftfs may just be the infamous strain screw. But... a C&S 'extended length fp' may have fixed it - what gives? The C&S fp is the same size - it's notch is wider, permitting more range. That also means it can flatten the little fp return spring more. Dry fires should be avoided, unlike with the OEM fp. In my book, the strain screw is the fix. Yeah, they do occasionally get 'short' fps... get a new one from S&W in that case.

Stainz

 

[Pepper]

I bumped this back up to ask again if anyone has purchased a 325TR that ran without problems right out of the box.

 

[Pepper]

dvincentp2 - did the factory ever straighten out your 325TR?