34-1 Kit Gun

LostintheOzone

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I'm interested in acquiring one of these. Just now starting to research the model as I know very little about them.

I started working as a surveyor in AZ around 72 and a guy I worked with had one. I've had lots of Smiths but never had a .22 revolver. So now I'd like to have a 34-1 and shoot it. I have other .22 pistols but this one is just calling my name for some reason.

What might be a fair price for a 4" model in say 90% condition. I'm not a collector, so just looking for a shooter.

I have 5k rounds of CCI SV I purchased before the troubles and it isn't getting used up with my CZ 455 or my MK II.

Thanks in advance.
 
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I have no idea what they are worth. I got this one in 2012 in a 2 gun deal, sold the other one. I love shooting it although it is way too small in my hand. Hard to shoot up tons of ammo, 6 at a time. Less than 90% but not one to worry about. Get it and enjoy. Joe
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I would check GB for auctions that have ended by using the Advanced Search function and the ended auctions will give you an idea of what the Model 34’s are bringing.
 
The Kit Guns are wonderful small revolvers. Easy to carry and a lot of fun to shoot. They were originally built on the I frame with some dimensional changes in 1953. Then, in 1960, they were switched to the J frame with the advent of the Model 34-1.

They are not inexpensive to acquire. But worth it, in my opinion.

Here are two of mine. The nickel example is a 34-1, the 2" blued unit is a Model of 1953, built before model numbers were used. I bought the 2" many years ago. The nickel Model 34-1 was purchased in 2015 for $800.
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LostintheOzone

As you can see from comparing pharmer's picture with mine, the Kit Gun can be had with either the square butt or the round butt. Your choice.
 
In the past few years I’ve seen used 34-1’s sold at gun shows for as little as $700: a 4” gun with a fair amount of bluing loss.

Used 2” barrel 34-1’s seem to go for $50-100 more than the 4” versions. The stainless kit guns (M63) go for around $100 more than the 34-1’s.

Nickel 34-1’s are a bit of an odd duck here. One with 90% finish will suffer a greater hit price wise than contemporary blue or stainless kit guns. 10% loss of nickel is just the beginning of fairly consistent finish loss while 90% blue loss doesn’t lead to more blue loss and a 90% M63 can be repaired with scotch bright pads and a little elbow grease. Repairing a 90% nickel gun requires you refinish the whole thing.

A nickel gun with 95-98% nickel gun will bring $100.00 more than a blue 34-1’s with comparable finish. Finish loss on the stainless 63 is tough to judge on used 63’s because the finish is so amenable to modifications with things like Flitz and scotch bright pads. Hard to tell whether the finish is attributable to the factory or the guy with a tube of Flitz.

Your best value is probably a used, blue 34-1.
 
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Mine was bought for $220, so you have some idea how long ago that was. It's been a long time since I've seen one as nice for less than $600...
 
If you can't find a model 34, you won't go wrong with a Model 17 or 18. I generally prefer the K Frame 22s (used 'em as training revolvers back on the PD), but I'm also enamored with this Model 31-1 4" square butt.

IMHO...... I have all except the 2" 34 below......

6" Model 17 for the range or hunting
4" Model 18 for General purpose /utility/ training

Models 34/63 S&W's original "Kit Gun" 4" for walking in Penns woods or 2" in your fishing Kit! They can be fired DA but I view it as a much better SA gun!

FWIW I've found a 3" 60-10 .357 is a more versatile Kit gun than the .22lr....... wide range of loads from shotshells to full bore 158gr .357 in black bear country
 
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Supica's Standard Catalog shows that mod. 34 serial numbers M60001-M99999 date from 1973 to 1977. Does anyone know approximately at what number the 1973 production ended and 1974 began? I ask because a 1973 should qualify as C&R, and a 1974 will not. It's a factor for me in figuring what I would pay, if I don't have to pay the FFL, spent time filling out paperwork, and go through my states 72 hour waiting period.

And... if something is close to the cutoff period, is there any source that can be shown to the seller to assure them it is C&R eligible?
 
I have two kit guns. Great for cheap trigger pull practice for those who carry J frames. My round butt 34 had thousands and thousands of rounds down range. Several years ago , NC had some stupid law that you couldn’t carry anything larger than .22 lr when hiking but not hunting in a state “gameland”. Often carried a 34. That law is long gone.

Here’s the square butt 34. Could not find the RB. It’s in there somewhere. Don’t have time to dig for it tonight.

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My first 34 was a square butt 2” blued. Before I knew much about S&W revolvers, I got rid of it due to problems the gun had, which now I realize were probably very fixable. Always missed it. Filled the void with a 4” blue round butt, but didn’t care for the round butt. It went away too. Decided I wanted to give another 2” a try, and searched for over 5 years for an affordable 2” square butt with no success, then stumbled into a 2” nickel square. Paid $595 about 6 years ago. While I much prefer blued, I picked up the nickel since it was the first 2” square I had seen in 5+ years that was under $600. What a sweet shooter! Has the best DA I have ever felt on a J, and no issues with tight chambers which is a common problem on all S&W 22 revolvers. At ten yards, can cover my DA shot groups with a dime, and hitting a 1/2 scale uspsa steel at 50 yards is easy as well. Probably my favorite revolver. These days any 34 under $750 in good shape is a steal- in my area at least, used S&W revolvers of any kind are scarce, and i think since I bought my 34 6 years ago, I think I have only seen one or two others. One wonders where they all are!
 

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