.357 cases not resizing properly

how many times have the cases been loaded and with what type of loads? if they are work hardened, that may be the problem.
 
I have just started to reload center fire pistol,I too have a S&W 686 357Mag.To date I have reloaded 500 rounds using the Lee factory crimp die,easiest crimp die to use,simple setup.Cartriges slide into and out of cylinders easily before and after firing.
 
Yeah, I don't think I'd have this problem if I didn't share brass among various .357s. The 686 appears to have the tightest cylinder of them all, and won't accept brass that's been fired in the slightly larger chambers of other cylinders.

I'm pretty sure this is the problem; I just don't know what to do about it yet. I really don't want to go to the trouble of keeping my brass separate, but that may be the only option.
 
There is NO WAY you can ever size all the way to the rim....as you said, there's an area at the base of the brass that the die can never contact.
What Bib said. As the casing sits inside of a shell holder, how would one think that the sizing die could sneak down inside the shell holder to do its job all the way to the case rim? Physics(ally) impossible. I also have experienced a failure to fully seat cartridges in the chamber due to the bulging just up from the case rim, but it was too long ago for me to remember which gun/which caliber it was. I also remember that when they were tight, I simply pushed them in harder, if they'd seat, fine, if not, I ejected them. My memory is that I simply shot the fatties out of another revolver. I don't remember throwing out the brass, either, so dang, I guess I just don't remember
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I have no advice as to the advisability of having your chambers reamed. I've never had it done, and would probably sell the gun, first, if it became a recurring issue. Not that it's an exotic problem, just that there's a lot of nice S&Ws out there.

I use .358 laser cast bullets. When seated, the top of the cartridge is noticeably bulged from this "oversized" bullet, but I've never had a problem seating the cartridge in the chambers due to the bullet, including .38s, .357, .44mag, and .45LC.

If you've never tried any, you might give Remington brass a try. Remington case walls are the stoutest, and may be what you need to resist the battle of the bulge...

1x2
 
The wall of the case is thicker near the base or rim. This portion is never resized by any of the dies as it should not expand. Can you determine if the portion you are measuring at .3830 is the portion that is not resized? I have seen this portion to be oversize due to overpressure. However, it was visible to the naked eye. When I find cases like this I toss them.

There should be no reason to separate cases fired in diferent guns. I suspect that you have a die to press mismatch, overpressure cases or oversized chambers in one gun and overpressure.
 
This is interesting, so I just went and put some calipers to some of my nickel and brass reloads, some new PMC and Black Hills "cowboy" rounds (all brass cases, advertised at ~800fps), and some Remington nickeled R38S14 +Ps. The thickest point of any of them was at the base; two of them measured .376". The overwhelming majority of them measured .3755" (except the Remingtons) just above the rim, and .3745"- .3755" at mid-case. The Remingtons were uniformly .3749" at the base and .374" at mid-case. So none anywhere close to .3830", but no noticeable taper, either.

1x2
 
Groo here
I had this happen to me when one of our
gies was using a gun with out of spec chambers.
When the case was resized there was a ring around
the bottom of the case.
This was on a S&W 38 that was converted from
38S&W to Special.
Has any of your guns been smithed to use speed loaders??? The rear of the chamber maby
a tuch to big.
 
You are using a carbide sizing die......right?

On many carbide sizing dies, you will overwork your brass if you are full length sizing them. Redding has instructions that caution against this with their carbide pistol dies. I'm betting your brass has developed a thickened ring just a bit above the rim. It may look like a slight bulge or a belt. Combine this with tight chambers and you have a cartridge that will not fully chamber. I shoot a lot of 158 gr. lead bullets in my 686. I simply size the brass a bit deeper than the bullet base. Still has plenty of neck tension. Roll crimp at next stage, and you should be good to go. This is just like neck sizing rifle rounds for a better chamber fit, longer brass life, and enhanced accuracy. This never seems to get discussed for handguns.
 
Iv'e heard the term "CAM OVER" but don't know what it means----Explain?
 
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