.357 Mag, 2inch, 6shot, no model number...

[Pdkreuger]

Greetings all the way from South Africa guys, I'm having trouble identifying my new s&w. 357mag 2 inch barrel, 6 shooter. I purchased the firearm, because I've carried. 357 for a real long time at work doing stock theft recovery, and found this particular one, and hounded the owner to sell it to me for several years. It has a Serial Number inside the yoke, but no other markings other than ".357 magnum" etched onto the barrel. Could anyone help me?

 

[DD357]

Model number should be on the inside of the crane. I'm on my phone but I am going with a 2.5" 686. You don't stop measuring the barrel length at the frame

 

[BAM-BAM]

Did you measure from the front of the cylinder or the frame....... ????

Looks like a 2 1/2 inch Model 686.......don't think there were any 2 inch guns..... but export and S&W never say never!

 

[Shorty 45 MK2]

Welcome to the Forum!

Looks like a 2.5" 686 to me.

 

[Pdkreuger]

I'm an idiot. It's a 2.5inch, I'm also on my phone, as the Internet this side is an abortion. I've taken the grips off and done a once over at the gunsmith where it's currently stored. This side of the world, the license holder (My friend terrence) first has to send an application to cancel his license, at which point I have to turn the firearm over to a gunshop/gunsmith for safe keeping while I apply for my concealed carry license. The process can tale upwards of 6 months, and if the Firearm Registrar denies my license application I then have to appeal my application, and and and...

The government application/cancellation paperwork has the serial number (starting with AVZ) the manufacturer, and caliber on record, but alas, no model number. Thanks for all the help again gents!!

 

[murphydog]

Sometimes model stamps are missed during production. It does appear to be a model 686, likely made in the summer of 1987. Enjoy and hope you never have to use it professionally.

 

[scooter123]

I'm with the others, that is a 2 1/2 inch 686. I suspect that you are confusing the model number with the serial number. That 686 followed by a dash and another digit is the model number followed by the revision number. For the serial number you will have to remove the grip. Because you will ALWAYS find the serial number for the revolver on the bottom face of the grip frame.

Note, sometime in the 80's or 90's S&W did start marking the serial number inside the yoke cutout along with the model number but an early 686 will have just the model number and perhaps an assembly number inside the yoke cutout. If you need to have the correct serial number for some legal reason make sure that you remove the grip and use the number stamped on the bottom of the grip frame. Because there have been numerous examples of S&W revolvers being sold with an assembly number being used on the transfer documents. Here in the USA doing this is a rather serious mistake and could result in a dealer losing his Federal Rifearms License.

 

[Engine49guy]

Its definately a 686 snub like the one pictured below with the 3" Model 19-7 K comp above it.


My guess is your gun is more likely a 686-1 or 686-2 as that revision change occurred near the time your gun shipped in 1987.
Great guns but be aware there was a free factory recall to replace the hammer nose bushing on 686-1 and older versions due to some soft 357 ammo causing "Primer flowback" that could lock up the cylinder so test any ammo thoroughly in your gun before putting your life in its hands.

After a 686 has had the recall work the factory stamped an "M" in the yoke cut like this


The factory will repair and tune the gun up for free if returned to them but that may or may not be so easy given your location.
Good luck either way.

 

[shawn mccarver]

My vote also goes to Model 686 with 2 1/2 inch barrel.

 

[ccjcc81]

Who makes those beautiful grips?

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

A Model 686 from this era would be a -1 (picture below shows a -2). The model number would typically be stamped here on the frame, with the s/n right above it..........

The s/n would also appear on the bottom of the grip frame. Disregard any numbers or letters on the yoke (the part that flops out with the cylinder). S&W would never put a s/n on the yoke since it is so easily separated from the gun (remove one screw) and could also be swapped between multiple guns.

 

[Pdkreuger]

Thanks guys for all the help!! Once I get my concealed carry permit I'm looking to bead blast the weapon to give it that beautiful Matte finish, as the high polish look just isn't for me. Anyone have any tips/suggestions on other problems they have run into with their 686's?

 

[elm_creek_smith]

Problems with S&W 686s? Well, they have made a bunch of them in the past few years with one too many holes in the cylinders.

 

[pesty3782]

I have a 1986 2.5 inch 686 that is my favorite revolver I have. Great to carry and great to shoot. I also have a 4 inch I carried for many years but the 2.5 has a special place in my safe and on my hip.

Tony P

 

[Pdkreuger]

Hi guys,

Just an update. I recieved my ccw license the other day and have started cartying again with the 686. Beautiful firearm for ccw. Im trying to decide whether or not to polish her up, or go Matte. Any suggestions and/or photos would be awesome!

Regards,

Pascal

 

[handejector]

Just curious-
Is the pic in Post 1 upside down because you're below the equator?

 

[kaaskop49]

Just curious-
Is the pic in Post 1 upside down because you're below the equator?

No, Lee, but the rifling in the bbl is reversed...

94poksaaK
3015# dleihS

 

[deadear dan]

I thought it should have turned right side up when crossing the equator...