You know it little tid bits of information like this ,that save a whole lot in the long run. Thanks to all those who have posted.
Well, I thank you, mickeyblueyes, for posting this thread, as I had a slightly different question and it would have fit right here, but I think it's been answered.
I'm a beginning re-loader, just 1,300 rounds or so into it. I guess that I've been exposed to both crimp styles, as I began re-loading .38 Sp with a Lee loader, loading with a 125 gr. plated bullet. I had occasion to pull off a few bullets early in using this, to verify the strength of the taper crimp. And boy! I was pounding a death grip on these.
I'm now using a RCBS Partner press and Lee dies. I just learned from this thread that I may have had a choice in crimp styles... my Lee crimp die roll crimps. I'll also mention that my only loading requirement is .38 sp. and .357 using my own brass, and that after a pilot run of 125 gr. plated bullets, I've switched to (and am very happy with) 158 gr. lead bullets, with the cannulure groove.
I still have 30 rounds of .38 loaded with my Lee loader I just dug out for comparison to the .357 stuff I loaded the other day.
Without knowing what a light vs. heavy crimp really is, I set my crimp height to just feel a "bump" as the press closes. This is a crappy pic, but to my eye, I can see that the edge of the case has turned slightly inward, and it;s uniform.
These .357 cases are mine, shot once, and all perfectly uniform, length-wise. I'm using these with a middle-of-the-road target load, using standard primers.
Apologize for the **** pic.
Altho I've tried to do so, as a result of this thread, I'll keep a sharp eye on both my cartridge lengths, as well as a splitting condition.