38 only cylinders for .357 revolvers?

[pilpens]

Does anyone make 38 only cylinders for K/L frame .357 revolver like 66 or 686? how expensive are they?
Accuracy issues with shooting 38/38+p in .357 revolvers?
I am deciding between buying a model 66 vs 67. I am leaning towards a 66 because I can shoot hot 38s in it without worries.

 

[anchors]

I think if you were to put a 38spl only cylinder in a 357 frame it would drastically change the barrel to cylinder gap for the worse.
A true 38 cylinder is shorter than a 357.
Why don't you want to shoot heavy 38's from the 357 cylinder?

 

[murphydog]

S & W made a very small number of model 19s in .38 Special, but as far as I know no model 66s or 686s, so finding a cylinder would be very difficult. Shooting .38s in the .357 cylinder can dirty the chambers and require cleaning for smooth chambering and extraction, but a model 67 will shoot more heavy .38 loads than your nerves and wallet can stand without problems.

I would also suspect no measurable difference in accuracy between .38s and .357s if you go the model 66 or 686 route.

 

[ray45]

I have shot .38 special in .357 K frame revolvers for years and could not ask for better accuracy.

 

[charlie sherrill]

There were some (mod 66) made for the California Highway Patrol that only chambered .38 spec.

 

[pinkymingeo]

I recently bought a 67. My intention was to shoot 38spl, not 357, and the lighter weight combined with pencil barrel/unshrouded ejector rod made the 67 a winner. I doubt you could shoot enough +P's in a lifetime to hurt the thing.

 

[medic15al]

There were some (mod 66) made for the California Highway Patrol that only chambered .38 spec.

Known as the model 68

 

[WC145]

Numrich's has titanium L-frame 7-shot .38spl cylinders (M242) in stock for about $60. One would be an easy fit to any .357mag L-frame.

 

[handgunner356]

S&W has made .38 only cylinders for export guns and here recently made some 4" & 6" 686s' in .38 only. I thought the 6" would make a great Bullseye gun if one liked the heavier weight. But having used a regular 686 for years with 148HBWCs' the only advanage I see is cleaning the cylinder would be easier.

 

[MTKTM]

I don't think there's any significant difference in accuracy between a 66 or 67 shooting 38s. But I don't really like the cleaning issues that come with doing so in a 357 cylinder, so my solution has been to load 38 velocities in 357 brass. Easy-peasy......if you handload.

 

[gerald mcdonald]

Shooting .38s in the .357 cylinder can dirty the chambers and require cleaning for smooth chambering and extraction, .

Why would a 38 dirty the chamber more than a 357? Seems like it might only be an issue if you went back to 357's after extended time with 38's though I have never found it to be an issue. Shot probably 5000 38's through a Security Six and it's never been a problem to fire 357's in it.

Not arguing, just wondering.

 

[senecaap]

Seems pointless in the extreme to me. Spend the money on ammo and a good stiff brush for cleaning. My thoughts are you would have more trouble changing over to .38 only, rather than just leaving the 66 stock and feeding it .38s. My 66 has only seen about 12 .357s in it's life, the accuracy with .38s is outstanding. The cleaning issue is not an issue, as far as I'm concerned.

 

[johngalt]

I wouldn't mind having a .38 special cylinder for my 686. I currently load target HBWC loads in .357 brass to avoid the cleanup problem, but I also have an auto in .38 special. It would be nice to be able shoot the same ammo in both.

 

[adweisbe]

Why would a 38 dirty the chamber more than a 357? Seems like it might only be an issue if you went back to 357's after extended time with 38's though I have never found it to be an issue. Shot probably 5000 38's through a Security Six and it's never been a problem to fire 357's in it.

Not arguing, just wondering.

Because the .38 case is shorter is leaves a ring farther up the chamber that interferes with the longer .357 case. At .38 pressures cases tend not to form and stick to the chamber as much as they do in .357.

 

[buckbeans]

I use lotsa 38's in 357. There is crud in there whether you use either case. Therefore, I just squish in the old choreboy every 450 to 500 shots and it is good to go.

 

[ADP3]

Use a Brass .357 Magnum (.357 Maximum works even better) fired case and bell the mouth in a case expanding die (tap a .308, 30-06, .243 fired case into the mouth if you are not a reloader) in order to flare the case mouth. This makes an excellent scrapper to remove the carbon and lead build up in your chambers. It will save you some bucks on cleaning brushes too. The mouth will get pushed back in after use so make several.

Best Regards,
ADP3

 

[Skeeziks]

Therefore, I just squish in the old choreboy every 450 to 500 shots and it is good to go.

Please define "old choreboy."
I've never heard that term before.

 

[buckbeans]

Choreboy is the trade name for the copper dish scrubber used by many reloaders to remove leading from barrels. Essentially it is just bunched up thin copper ribbons. You can get it at Ace hardware which is where I got it yesterday. You just cut off a few strands of the copper ribbon and wrap it around your cleaning brush and watch it rip out leading and crud from barrels and cylinders. Make sure they are Choreboy brand as the imitators use copper colored steel. A lot of guys bring a magnet to make sure it is not steel if it is an off brand.

 

[ADP3]

Chore Boy is a brand of copper scrubbers. You wrap strands of it around your cleaning brush to remove stubborn leading.

Best Regards,
ADP3

 

[Skeeziks]

Choreboy is the trade name for the copper dish scrubber used by many reloaders to remove leading from barrels. Essentially it is just bunched up thin copper ribbons.

Oh...that.
I use "Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner", myself. This stuff is like magic. It eats rust and de-leads bores and yet it won't harm bluing.
It is used the same way as you use Choreboy (wrapping around brush) but it's made up of nickel silver, stainless steel, monel (a corrosion resistant nickel-based alloy), and zinc.

Thanks for the info.