38 S&W "Lemon Squeezer"

[roperdan]

I inherited a nickel plated pearl handle 38 "lemon squeezer" with the serial number 24xxx. Ordered 38 S&W (38 new colt police) ammo from Buffalo Bore. Came with warning not to use in top break revolvers.

I believe my model is an 1880's version. What is safe to use?
Blackpowder?

see photo

 

[mrcvs]

I would stick to the blackpowder.

In case you are wondering about the originality of your firearm, it is a perfect example of a firearm that you do not have to worry about ruining shooting it, as it is refinished. Originally, among other things, the interface between the side plate and the frame would have been much less distinct and the trigger would have been case-coloured. Lack of the aforementioned are hallmarks of a refinished firearm. Nice pearl grips, usually an aftermarket feature.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

Don't blow your gun up! It is of no interest to collectors, but is a fun gun to shoot and if it shoots, well worth carrying. Mine is a 1896 model (the latch is the big identifier) and with black powder or substitute loads is a riot. The Buffalo Bore rounds are way too stout for your pistol, but were most likely intended for WW II British Victory models. Ivan

 

[H Richard]

The off the shelf Remington, Fiochii, Winchester, 146 gr standard velocity are loaded mild enough to be use in the break tops. Buffalo Bore is Hot stuff and not suitable for your age gun.

 

[glowe]

Buffalo Bore is Hot stuff and not suitable for your age gun.

My question has always been why does this company load their vintage ammo calibers so hot, especially 38 S&W to 1000 fps?? Now I understand they are using a 125 grain bullet, but this is almost twice as fast as original rounds. How many non-vintage 38 S&W shooters are out there anyway? BTW, they are asking $30 for 20 rounds!

I reload this caliber and chrono all my loads. My favorite and most accurate load is 3.5 grains Trail Boss with 146g RN - speed 600 fps. Remington factory loads come in at 537 fps and BP reloads are 570 fps, both with 146g RN.

 

[DWalt]

The original factory .38 S&W BP loads with a 146 grain lead bullet and 14.1 grains of BP had a 25' velocity of 635 ft/sec from a 5" barrel. Current smokeless .38 S&W factory loads (except those from Buffalo Bore) generally have MVs below 600 ft/sec, and are safe to use in the older black powder guns. .38 S&W ammunition has been factory loaded with smokeless powder since the very early 1900s, and most, if not all, of the old revolvers have used nothing but smokeless powder ammunition for the last 100+ years with no damage. I wouldn't trust any of the old ones with the Buffalo Bore ammunition, but it should be OK for later side swing solid frame revolvers. It's no trick to handload .38 S&W ammunition to produce .38 Special ballistics in newer revolvers, such as the British .38/200 Victory models.

The main problem with modern factory .38 S&W ammunition is finding it.

 

[H Richard]

I would imagine some of the later mfg. Terrier's and the Victory models in this caliber should be able to handle that hot a round, I doubt if it is a big seller.

 

[murphydog]

It's a niche product that they probably had a few requests to produce. They market it for HE revolvers only; it is definitely too hot for the top-breaks.

 

[roperdan]

Thanks

Thanks for all the help. I found remington ammo at Selway Armory (mt) that should be arriving in a few days. I think I may have a spring problem with the trigger--not wanting to recover completely. Are there any parts for this gun?

By the way, my mom had told me that she thought an aunt had this gun refinished.

Really do appreciate the help.

 

[glowe]

If it is a trigger spring, check this link out. It also may be accumulation of dirt and dried oils or greases. If you have not taken your revolver apart, it might be time to do so. You may find that a good cleaning and oiling will solve the problem.

If you are not keen on tackling this process yourself, take off the hard rubber stocks and give the action a good spraying with choke and carb cleaner. Let sit and repeat it until the liquid flushes out clear. I then oil it using a high quality aerosol gun oil and blow the excess out using compressed air. Check the action to see if any better before looking for parts.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufa...ers-42026/38SafetyHammerless-38377.htm?page=3