38 S&W Victory Conversion

Joined
Feb 22, 2015
Messages
3
Reaction score
1
Hello folks. I am sorta new to the gun scene and have a question about this gun I have inherited.I did some research and found out that it is a 38 S&W Victory Revolver seeing as in how it has the "V" stamp on bottom next to serial number. What I'd like to know is if it was been reamed/converted to fire a 38 Special bullet. I don't know the history of it but it has been re-nickled seeing as in how the hole for the lanyard hoop has been sealed off. I would like to know if it's been converted before I drive to a gunsmith any help would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2092.jpg
    IMG_2092.jpg
    121.8 KB · Views: 105
  • IMG_2075.jpg
    IMG_2075.jpg
    112.1 KB · Views: 108
  • IMG_2094.jpg
    IMG_2094.jpg
    160.5 KB · Views: 85
  • IMG_2085.jpg
    IMG_2085.jpg
    115.2 KB · Views: 113
  • IMG_2096.jpg
    IMG_2096.jpg
    102.5 KB · Views: 175
Register to hide this ad
Oh I see! Learn something new every day... I hear that this wasn't a very safe practice and accuracy is not the best. Any thoughts? Can I still shoot a 38 S&W bullet out of it?
 
Yes you can and 38 spl can be shot in it cases will be slightly bulged and may split I have never seem them do so but others say they have. The accuracy will be ok with either just not tack driving ths one looks better than most lots of them had their barrels cut way too short.
 
Easy way is to see if a .38 Special round or fired case will chamber completely. But the picture shows yours has been reamed. Most the time, the chamber conversion works OK. I have yet to see a split .38 Special case from firing in a reamed chamber, but even if it does happen, it's not dangerous. Regarding grouping capability, all you can do is to shoot it and find out for yourself. Should be OK for shooting tin cans at reasonable distances. Some like to use hollow base wadcutter bullet loads which will expand to fill the slightly oversize bore. Unfortunately, it has no collector value, but may make a good utility shooter.
 
I have one as well and actually it shoots quite well.

I load once fired .38 spl cases with the resizing die turned out 5 turns to just neck size. The first firing they are fire formed to the actual chamber diameter. I have reloaded these many times without a split case.
 
Yes, if you are a reloader, it's best to just partially resize the fired brass. Squeezing down the bulged area will work the brass too much and result in early case failure. If you use factory ammo, just pitch the cases.
 
Thanks guys. I am taking it to the range tomorrow. It's impossible to find 38 S&W in town so 38 Specials it is. Though it ain't much for collector's value probably $200 max just gonna hold on to it as back up pistol.
 
GypsmJim & DWalt hit it just right. Dedicated brass with neck sizing only at reloading is probably the way to go. If the brass survives its first firing without splitting, then the less you work the brass the better off you'll be. Maybe you could look around for a new or used set of Lyman 310 tool dies for 38 Special... they are designed to just neck size. The tong tool is pretty slow compared to a progressive press, but if you aren't loading large numbers, it works fine. You could probably load a box or two at the kitchen table before bedtime. Sometimes we get too hung up here on high end guns with great pedigree and neglect these old war horses that were and still are good solid shooters.

Froggie
 
I had one for awhile but eventually traded it in on a pre-Model 10.

Many people make a big deal out of the .38 Special conversion and not without some good reason.

The original .38 S&W chambers were on the order of about .0075" larger at the base than the .38 Special. The .38 S&W also used a .360" bullet, and, as you can see in pictures of chambers reamed to .38 Special, the .38 S&W chamber is still larger than the .38 Special near the former .38 S&W case mouth.

However, what people don't seem to connect is that the .45 Colt is a straight, parallel walled cartridge that is fired in a tapered chamber. This was done back in the BP era to ensure reliable extraction with BP fouling. However, despite the lack of need with smokeless powder, the old BP chamber specs were retained. Ironically enough the taper is .007" base to mouth, leaving the .45 Colt with the same degree of stretch as a .38 S&W chamber converted to .38 Special.

If you shoot the .45 Colt in a Ruger or Model 92, using higher Tier 2 or Tier 3 loads and full length resize them, the case life is much shorter than the average handgun cartridge due to increased working of the brass. The end result is spider cracks in the middle of the case, long before the neck cracks.

The resulting cracks however are not a safety issue as they occur above the point in the case where it is adhered to the chamber wall.

I found the .38 S&W>.38 Special chamber acted much the same way. I never had a case split or crack on the first few reloads but I'd start seeing them on the 4th or 5th reload. Like the .45 Colt, more pressure expands the brass more and increases the degree to which it is worked when resized, shortening case life.

In both cases, partial sizing works fine as they are straight, parallel wall cases, and you just need to size the case down to just past the base of the bullet. In the tapered chambers that you have on both cases, the rounds will chamber easily and be worked a lot less, extending brass life.

-----

In terms of the converted revolvers themselves, they were not technically "Victory Models", but rather .38/200 British Models. The early ones are not "US property" marked, while the later lend lease revolvers are marked like the Victory Models.

Regardless of markings, the pre-V and V prefixed .38 S&W chambered revolvers were all .38/200 chambered British Models. After S&W reached serial number 1,000,000 for their revolvers, they added a prefix, choosing "V" for victory, and the British Models just shared the same prefix and serial number series.

After December 1944 you'll see British and Victory Models with an "SV" prefix indicating a new hammer block. You'll also find un modified British Models with 4" 5" or 6" barrels as they were shipped in all three lengths.

----

The .38/200 cartridge is dimensionally identical to the .38 S&W, the difference lies in the use of a 200 grain bullet rather than a 140 grain bullet.

----

After WWII, a large number of these former British models were converted to .38 Special. The quality of the work varies a lot.
Early British Models were bright blued with S&W medallioned checkered grip, just like the commercial models. Later British models will have smooth grips and either sand blasted and blued finishes or a sandblasted black magic finish.

When nicely done, the conversion process involved plugging the lanyard hole filing the plug flush with the frame then polishing the revolver and blueing, creating a revolver that looked a lot like a Model 10 with a 4" 5" or 6" barrel, but with the expected shallowing out of the roll marks. Many of them were also nickel plated, but in both cases, the quality of the job varies and you'll often see a lack of polish behind the recoil shield, that reflects the original mid to late WWII level of finish on the sand blasted versions. Parker Hale converted a lot of them and you'll encounter British Models with Parker Hale ramp front sights.

You'll also still find military finished .38/200 British Models that were not refinished as well as British Models that were not refinished but were converted to .38 Special. At the time, one of the importers sold the stock British Models for $15.95, while the .38 Special converted British Models sold for $17.95, and surplus .38 Special Victory Models sold for $19.95.
 
The real reason for the undesirability of a .38 S&W > .38 S&W Special conversion (along with the other atrocities committed on the venerable .38/200 Victories- and yes they are Victories also) such as refinishing and chopping the barrels, is that they have lost their originality and have no collector value. As general utility shooters, they are generally OK. Regarding ammunition, the British military designation was the .380 Revolver, MkI (or MkII). The British contended their service cartridge was not the same as the American .38 S&W, and there is some basis for that. However, the two are dimensionally and ballistically very similar and they are interchangeable. The MkI British loading used a 200 grain lead bullet, and was replaced during the 1930s with the MkII load which used a 178 grain FMJ bullet which was compliant with the Hague Convention requirements on ammunition used in warfare. ".38/200" is the shorthand name for the revolver, not the cartridge. Sometimes you also see it referred to as the "K-200". The British military name for the .38/200 revolver was the "Pistol, Revolver, Smith and Wesson, No. 2"
 
Back
Top