38 Special Case Length

novalty

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Going to be loading 38 special for my father in the near future, have started prepping a bunch of once fired cases. I know with roll-crimped cases the case length is much more important to watch-in order for the roll-crimp to be uniform in the cannelure. The case I have are a mix of nickel & brass. Noticed when measuring the nickle they are consistant at 1.149", while the brass is consistant at 1.151". From my reading 1.149" is the magic number of reference. Is the 2 thousands going to affect the loading so that I need to trim the brass?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Considering I have never ever trimmed a .38 Special case you can guess I think it means nothing. Two Tenths might mean something but two Thousands means nothing in case length.

I don't even think the human eye can see that small a difference.
 
Thanks for the confirmation guys--I didn't think that .002 would affect the roll-crimp into the cannelure. My worst fear was having to buy a trimmer, to trim off .002--think I would throw the brass in my scrap bucket if that was the case.
 
Thanks for the confirmation guys--I didn't think that .002 would affect the roll-crimp into the cannelure. My worst fear was having to buy a trimmer, to trim off .002--think I would throw the brass in my scrap bucket if that was the case.

That would not be any fun.:D Never trimmed nor measured a straight wall case.

There is probably more variance in the bullets and groove.

As Arch stated you can't even see it, I sure can't;)
 
Bought my first S&W 38 Sp. in 1956. been reloading that caliber ever since. Never have trimmed 38 Sp. Don't need to. In fact I still have some military REM-UMC brass I picked up while in the Guard. Still using them
 
HECK!

I don't even OWN a case trimmer! Never had the need and I have reloaded my .38's and .45's so many times I have lost track.

I do keep an eye out for severely stretched .45-70 and .38-55 Rifle cases but I have not encountered any problems yet. I load those for Marlin Lever Rifles and I keep them on the mild side so I think I will be fine there as well.

Chief38
 
While it is true straight walled pistol cases don't need trimming usually, brass that has been fired with near "never exceed" listed powder charges or excessive crimp do stretch. I have had to trim my .44 remington magnum cases. Measuring cases is a step I never omit. I have had the occasional never fired brass case from Midway brass need trimmed. It is just good technique to check. PS. there are case trimmers like the Lee Zip trim that do a great job for low $s. If you reload you will eventually need a case trimmer.
 
When I first purchase pistol brass, I measure about a dozen cases. If they are less than recommended trim length, I load them as is. If they are more than trim length, I have at it.

FWIW, I've never had to trim pistol brass a second time and no longer even bother measuring them other than when new.
 
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When I first started reloading for the 44 magnum and redhawk I had a rather large selection of 44 mag brass that I had picked up over the years. Wasn't too much trouble to round up 100 cases with the same headstamp. So I started out with 100 winchester cases. I measured all 100 cases and marked each one, then set the trimmer so it would square up the case mouth of the smallest case. Set the trimmer at that length. Did all 100 at that same length. I'm using H110 which requires a firm crimp. When finished reloading the 100 cases all show perfect crimps. Same thing with 38 special. Now 45acp I don't bother measuring or trimming. Just clean the primer pockets and load them up. Why? because I have not found one case that was anywhere near the trim to length. And this is with mixed cases. Those 45 rounds have all chambered perfectly, fired and ejected perfectly without all the trial and tribulations done with the revolver cases. Frank
 
Well to post an update, I've loaded up 100 rounds of 38 Special for my father's S&W 686, have not trimmed any and they seem to be working well.
 
The only real value in trimming (for rimmed cases) is to have consistent crimp (or trim off small cracks) So long as you do not have cases that exceed max case length. . Light loads, should have good crimp to insure good combustion. Heavy loads should have good crimp to keep bullets from "backing out" of case. Cases longer than max for the caliber could "pinch" the bullets in the case and might be very over pressure. Since you have "only" two lengths it would be easier to adjust the crimp die for each batch (probably not even needed for .002 inch) than do trimming.
 
As a note;

the maximum for the 38 Special case OAL is 1.155"..........

You will probably have problems with accuracy right now with cases too short..................

But they all are in the ball park, just that some cases will be off a little if you crimp the bullets per a "Can" on a certain bullet, just pumping the handle on the final die.

With "Mixed cases" one needs to seat to the "Can" then the final step is a crimp............ by "feel".

Good loading.
 
The difference in length will make a difference in the combustion of the powder. In your case it will be pretty small and you or your father probably won't even notice it unless one or both of you are above average shooters.

Just for future reference, trimming isn't just about getting the brass the same length, it's also about getting the case mouths square. Also the SAAMI recommended dimensions are industry standards and may not apply to your particular firearms.
 

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