.44 DA Frontier ??

[rjb1]

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I just bought a .44 DA Frontier that seems to not have a proper half-cock notch. The hammer tip protrudes through the back of the frame toward the cylinder and I assume this is not the way it should be. (I definitely haven't tried it, but it looks like sharply closing the action would fire a round, probably out of battery.)

Someone mentioned in different thread that the side plate should be removed "properly and safely" to try to assess such a problem.

Can someone explain the proper procedure for removing the sideplate on the older S&W's (especially if that procedure differs from modern S&W's)?
Does anyone have experience with the hammer-protrusion problem (and how it is fixed)?

Thanks,

Joel

 

[twaits]

To remove the sideplate first remove the grips then the sideplate screw.
Then with a wood or plastic mallet tap the frame. The sideplate will eventually work free and you can lift it out.
It sounds like the half cock notch is broken. I'd contact Dave Chicoine as he specializes in antique S&W repair. He may be able to either fix it or have parts to do so. You can e-mail him at [email protected]
He's a very nice and helpful gentleman.
Good luck!

 

[tusong200]

I'll second that. Dave was recommended to me by Twaits as well. He was very helpful and responds to emails quickly.

If the half cock notch is worn your 5-shooter should be treated as a 4-shooter. When loading always leave an empty cylinder under the hammer.

 

[delta-419]

David and Son have worked on my S&Ws and their work is excellent. They will respond to your questions quickly but will need to see the gun to offer a complete assessment.

 

[Alk8944]

rjb1,

Just a question. You don't mention pulling the hammer back to half-cock, only that at rest the firing pin (hammer nose) protrudes through the breech. The NM#3 does not have a rebounding hammer, and that seems to be what you are really asking about. The hammer must be deliberately placed in half-cock.

Definitely do not carry the gun fully loaded and depend on the half-cock as a safety, but you can safely carry it with 6 if you handle the mechanism correctly. When loaded simply pull the hammer back enough to unlock the cylinder and rotate it 1/12 turn until the hammer nose can be set down between two case heads and it is perfectly safe. This is why there is the groove between the stop notches! Some variants of the NM#3 actually had 12 stop notches for exactly this purpose. (So did some Colts BTW)


tusong 200,

The NM#3 is a 6-shot revolver, not 5.

 

[rjb1]

Thanks to all for the good information.
Now that I know what it should be doing I can tell you a bit more about what it's not doing.
If you pull back the hammer to what would be the "usual" half cock position it will sometime stay just from what feels to be friction, but if you push on it it goes back into position protruding from the frame.
I suspected a broken or worn notch as was suggested. I can now, with your advice, get the side plate off and see what it looks like in there. (I have plenty of late-model Smith's, but this is my first top-break. I wanted to be sure that something vital wouldn't fly out if I took the side-plate off in the usual way.)
I will probably just satisfy my curiosity by first having a look inside and then get in touch with Dave Chicoine about fixing it.
I also didn't know about having to manually set it between cartridge rims.

Thanks again,

Joel

 

[twaits]

Good luck. Let us know how what you find out.

 

[rjb1]

I took the sideplate off last night and it appears that the nose of a small hook/projection on the bottom of the hammer is partly gone.
If you pull the hammer back a small hook pivoted around a pin in the lower frame moves up and will sometimes catch in what is left of the hammer hook, but mostly it slips off, letting the hammer pivot forward resulting in the firing pin projection originally mentioned.
I'll get in touch with Dave Chicoine about it, but just for curiosity, has anyone else had this particular problem (and was it successfully fixed)?

It will work fine as a five-shooter until I can get around to getting it fixed, so I will try to find time to shoot it a bit before then.

Thanks,

Joel

 

[twaits]

Remember, black powder or black powder substitute only. These guns were not ever intended for modern smokeless ammo.
This may be obvious but I always state this just in case. I'd hate to see someone's gun get destoyed or worse see someone get injured.
I've fired mine before with black powder ammo and it was really fun.
But I only fired it that once for fear of breaking something.
I would like to shoot it again though

 

[mmaher94087]

rjb1,
..."but just for curiosity, has anyone else had this particular problem (and was it successfully fixed)?" Yes! About ten years ago Dave repaired my NM #3 hammer. The knotches on the hammer were welded and recut. Works perfectly. If you want the hammer re-case colored, that can be done also. I also had this procedure performed on my 1928 W**. 30-30 lever gun. Mike #283