At the yardages your going to be shooting any wc/hbwc will work. Used to swage my own hbwc's for the 44cal's, still have 2 different sets of swaging dies to do so. Been thinning the herd of my molds also, down to these 5
top left: lee 162gr button nosed wc cast from a 6-cavity mold. That mold casts a good bullet with range scrap (.4305"), add the pc and they run .4325".
top center: a custom lee 6-cavity mold that casts a flat nosed 175gr wc that can be seated flush or crimped in either end groove. The end grooves are offset so that you can load the same load in 44mag or 44spl cases and have the same oal and case fill with either case. The mold casts a .4305" bullet with range scrap. pc's at .4325"
top right: That's a nose pour cramer 200gr wc bullet that flat out shoots. The 2-cavity molds casts a .431" bullet with range scrap.
bottom left: A mihec 220gr hbwc cast from a 4-cavity mold. The mold casts .431" bullets with range scrap
bottom right: lyman 429352 245gr wc from a single cavity mold. The mold casts a .4305" bullet from range scrap.
Used to have a 624 with a 6 1/2" bbl, eyes got bad and ended up selling it along with several 44cal wc molds. Don't know about the cylinders on your model 24 but that 624 had .432" cylinders. It needed bullets in the .431"/.432" range to have any accuracy.
Any of those bullets pictured above will easily do everything you need from them and more with 10yds being your longest shot. The big difference is how the 24 fits your hand & trigger control compared to the smaller model 14. Two vastly different revolvers.
I still play around with target loads in a beater 629 that has a reddot on it. Did I mention I really like that 200gr nose pour cramer wc?
Before I would spend $100 on bullets I'd spend $80 on a mold. You can always sell the mold, the bullets after they've been shot. Not so much.
