The general rule for crimping is:
Revolver - Roll crimp
Semi-automatic - Taper crimp
The issue is feeding reliability, (semi-automatic only), no other consideration!
Amount of crimp is another issue decided by load performance. Don't over-think it when you are a new hand-loader
Respectfully and in the spirit of discussing the hobby:
While I like your very last line here, I think there is far more to be said about crimping at the load bench and I'm moved to respond when you say "no other consideration."
For the OP and the bullets in question, most definitely
roll crimp. And your bullet should have the perfect groove already present for you to roll crimp into. There are two reasons to roll crimp revolver rounds. First is to prevent "crimp jump" where moderate to heavy recoil of a fired round (or multiple) can corrupt other loaded rounds and cause the bullet to lurch forward. (they aren't actually lurching forward at all, they are following Newton's law and they are trying to stay exactly where they are while the revolver lurches backward under recoil.)
The second reason to roll crimp a revolver round only begins to show itself with heavy magnum loads and slow burning powder running high pressure ammo. A good,
solid roll crimp prevents the bullet from moving early in the burn cycle which changes the internal space and affects the building pressure of the load. You'll never see this with Titegroup, Bullseye or Red Dot but you absolutely will see this with H-110, IMR-4227, AA#9 and other slow burning powders. You can
really see the difference when you load the massive X-frame magnum cartridges and those in that realm. And you will often see it in .44 Magnum as well, when you are loading top-end loads.
A solid, repeatable roll crimp in all revolver rounds promotes consistency and reliability with your ammo. If you have ever had a round jump crimp (heavy recoil and/or somewhat lightweight revolver?) then you will see that it isn't like a little feed bobble with a pistol. A revolver round that jumps crimps usually ends the shooting day with that revolver until you can get the revolver to a work bench with good lighting and some tools to un-do the failure.
For semiautomatic pistol rounds where the die set comes with a
taper crimp die, I'll suggest that we are entering an area where precious few actually understand what's happening now. I know that it took me years myself to hear it repeated occasionally and not "get it" until I finally "GOT IT."
When taper crimping a semiauto round, you are not really crimping anything. You are not (or perhaps should not be attempting) to "grip or hold that bullet" in place with the taper crimp. Your taper crimp is performing the task of undoing the case mouth flare you imparted earlier before seating the bullet.
In a semiauto round that head spaces on the case mouth, the bullet pull or "grip on the bullet" is performed by the proper sizing of the cartridge case. And if you dare impart MORE taper crimp, you'll soon find that the grip on the bullet is less and less, opposite of a roll crimp.
The fault of this misconception goes back countless decades to whoever coined the term "taper crimp." Using the word crimp here suggests that you are prepping the round to better grip that bullet. In actuality, you are not. You are simply making the round prepared for final dimensions which, as said in the quoted text, promotes smooth feeding.
Let's not forget that most semi-auto rimless rounds headspace on the
case mouth and if we attempted to roll that edge in to the bullet in any manner, we are messing with specifically the area that controls how the round was designed to sit in the chamber.
