44 Outdoorsman? Updated with Photos

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Howdy

I'm pretty sure no such animal existed? I just picked up what I am pretty sure is a 44 Hand Ejector 3rd Model. All the details are correct and SN says it was made in 1927. The shop had it labelled as a 44 Outdoorsman. Am I correct that there was no such thing as a 44 Outdoorsman?
 
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Howdy

I'm pretty sure no such animal existed? I just picked up what I am pretty sure is a 44 Hand Ejector 3rd Model. All the details are correct and SN says it was made in 1927. The shop had it labelled as a 44 Outdoorsman. Am I correct that there was no such thing as a 44 Outdoorsman?
 
WE NEED Pictures !!!!
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I have never heard of such a beast but I am willing to learn. Does it have Target sights?
Barrel Length?

Dan
 
Originally posted by Driftwood Johnson:
Am I correct that there was no such thing as a 44 Outdoorsman?
Yes, unless I've been badly misinformed. An Outdoorsman will be a .38-44 (.38 Special) with target sights.
 
Dad-burn!!!

I don't think I want to get into .44 HE's...
Er.... .44 caliber Heavy Duties...or whatever it is!
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Too complicated for me- but I read the whole post!
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Vey informative!
 
Howdy Again

Here are some photos. Sorry, they are not the best in the world, I always have trouble photographing shiny guns. SN is 289XX, the numbers match on the rear of the cylinder, under the extractor star, and in the recess under the barrel where the extractor rod sits. I place it having been made in 1927. Barrel is 5". Please excuse the hokey fake stag grips, they are what came on it. Also, I'm pretty sure the nickel plating is not factory, the lead ins to the cylinder locking notches have been dished out a little bit too much.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure it is a Model 1926, not some kind of '44 Outdoorsman'. Please tell me what you think.

Model19265inch.jpg


Model19265inch02.jpg


Model19265inchrearsight.jpg


Model1926patentdates.jpg


Model1926calibermarking.jpg
 
Yes, it is a Model of 1926 or 3d Model .44. Check the right side of the frame for either a "B" or "N" stamp for a clue as to what it left the factory as. The markings from what I can see in the pictures look pretty good and the trigger and hammer are not nickeled which is a sure giveaway for a refinished gun. Hope this helps.
Bill
 
Howdy 1Aspenhill thanks for your comments. I'm pretty sure this old girl left the factory blued, and not nickeled. Here is a photo from under the right grip frame. There is a B along with a bunch of other markings. You can also see how the nickel plating is flaking off under the grips.

gripmarkings.jpg


Here is a photo that shows how the polisher got a bit too aggressive around the hole for the hammer pivot stud.

dishedstudhole.jpg



Here is a shot of how he got a bit too aggressive on the lead ins to the locking notches on the cylinder.

dishedslots.jpg


The nickel plating has been pretty much blasted off the front face of the cylinder too. I think the reason the patent dates look so good is because he couldn't get in between the front sight and the frame to do quite such a 'thorough' job. But at least he did not plate the hammer and trigger.

Mind you, I'm not complaining, I'm very pleased with the gun. I took it to the range for the first time yesterday and it shoots fine. The action and trigger are a bit stiffer than I would like, but I have not had a chance to take off the side plate yet and look inside to see what's going on.

I'll probably be looking for some more appropriate grips at some point, but for now I can live with the funky stag grips.
 
Originally posted by Driftwood Johnson:
Howdy 1Aspenhill thanks for your comments. I'm pretty sure this old girl left the factory blued, and not nickeled. Here is a photo from under the right grip frame. There is a B along with a bunch of other markings. You can also see how the nickel plating is flaking off under the grips.

I agree the gun is a 1926 44 Hand Ejector and certainly a very nice gun to have.

Look on the left side of the frame not the right side for a B or an N to indicate the original finish.

That letter (B or N) will most likely also be found inside the barrel lug, which becomes visable once you open the cylinder.

I have never seen that stamped on the right side, only on the left side. Expect it to be a larger size font than all the small letters on the right side that you show in your picture. I believe the stampings on the right side of the frame were some sort of codes put there durung the assembly process..
 
I have never seen that stamped on the right side, only on the left side. Expect it to be a larger size font than all the small letters on the right side that you show in your picture. I believe the stampings on the right side of the frame were some sort of codes put there durung the assembly process..
I have seen it on the right on Triple Locks, and on into the 20's. Remember, compadre, don't ever use "absolute" and S&W in the same sentence, unless the subject is "quality".....
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Those grips dont look like plastic to me, they look like real stag. If you want to sell them let me know at [email protected]
Thanks
Matt

P.S. The gun looks great, would live to find an old shooter like that for muself.
 
Originally posted by Driftwood Johnson:
.... There is a B along with a bunch of other markings....

I've got two factory nickeled pre-war 3rd Models. My 4 incher (mid-33000 S/N range) has the letter 'N' stamped in the same area as the 'B' on your gun. My 6-1/2 incher in the high 54000's has the 'N' stamped near the front strap, maybe 3/8" below the strain screw. Neither of these two have any marking stamped in the ejector rod shroud other than the S/N. Based on that alone, I'm thinking that most likely only the blued guns were stamped in the shroud to indicate factory original finish.

Here is a shot of how he got a bit too aggressive on the lead ins to the locking notches on the cylinder.

Comparing your pics to my guns, I don't see anything that really suggests overly agressive polishing. The cylinder stop notches on guns of that era are just smaller than on post-war guns.

I'll probably be looking for some more appropriate grips at some point, but for now I can live with the funky stag grips.

I also agree that those look like real stag grips. But if you just can't live with 'em - email me, I just might have something 'more appropriate' to trade....

Mark
 
Howdy Again

I guess I don't know much about stag grips, never owned a pistol that had them. Here are a couple of photos of the grips. There are plenty of what looks like file marks on them, so maybe they are real. How can I tell? I don't know anything about stag grips. There does seem to be a bit of a 'grain' to them. Those semi-circular metal pieces are glued to the grips and are barely held in place, the glue is pretty loose right now. It looks like some sort of rubber cement.

staggrips01.jpg


staggrips02.jpg


Here is a photo of the SN along with a letter B on the inside of the shroud.

SNinshroud.jpg


One more shot of some dishing. The top of the logo has been a bit obliterated too. I really don't think this is a factory nickel job.

overpolishing.jpg


If the grips are real stag, so much the better. I'll leave them on for a while. All in all, factory nickel or not, I am quite pleased with the gun.
 
take some fine scrapings from the back of the grips and put a lit match to the scrapings, if it smells like burning hair its stag, if it melts its plastic. Glenn
 
While the "scrapings" method will work, as described above, I prefer to take a very well heated sewing needel(or open safety pin) held in pliers and when glowing red, insert(or try to!) in backside of one of the grips. Stag,or bone, or pearl, will not be penetrated, while plastic will show "hole", or crater,like the bullet holes some plasticmilitary modelers make(obviously, don't shove it all the way through.!)

The metal half discs are "locators", just like the full disc plates found on the back of magnas. These will frequently loosen, and DON'T obviously shoot the gun with them loose.
The are also used to partially fit the grips to the gun. With the half discs only held on by something like Elmer's glue, trace their correct location for a good fit, doing one gripat a time. Fully clean the grip area and the half disc, and use one of the miracle glues(but one that has a good 10-15 seconds to align before bonding). I have even used tiny screws on a 45 degree angle to get a more secure fit,on an M-544 convertible .44/40 and .44Mag.

Got lucky, 2 years ago, at a large outdoor market here in Maine, buying a small box lot of virtually new N frame stag magnas, and have fitted a couple ofpairs of them to some of my S&Ws to use as "shooter grips".

Very interesting 1926, in that it has the "rounded top strap" vs. the square top strap that was ordered introduced on 10/17/27.

Thought the frame might be one of the "1917's that S&W "bought back" from the Govt. in early 20's(I have a couple of 2nd Model .44'sbuilt on these frames)- BUT I don't see the "little eagle" peeking out from the nice photo of the grip straps and no evidence that frame was ever drilled for a lanyard loop-as was the case with most "1917" framed .44's I've seen.

Sorry for the long post and enjoy shooting the heck of that 1926!

Bud
 
My recollection of the period advertising was that the fixed sight .44 Special was sold as the 1950 .44 Military, and the adjustable sighted gun as the Model 1950 .44 Target. This was after the guns were updated in 1950, of course.

An interesting note that the .44 Military had the shrouded ejector rod, while the Model 1950 Army (.45 ACP) had the exposed ejector rod, a holdover from the M1917 and WW I British Purchasing Commission.

Bob Wright
 

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