.44 special and plated bullet loads

[MJFlores]

Hi all, I just picked up a 629 and want to load some 44 specials. I have a bunch of 44 special cases, and a big box of Federal LG pistol primers. Its been a long while since I loaded for 44, back when I did I used lead bullets and Unique but was never crazy about the lead build up I always got in the throat of my barrel. I've decided not to use lead, but want to try plated (either Berry's or Rainier's). I assume the plating will really help? Can anyone recommend a nice load for 44 specials and plated bullets? Just fun target stuff. I know powder can be tough to find right now, but it seems to be slowly coming back. I'll of course start a little below what you recommend and work up to it. My next choice to plated would be jacketed bullets, regardless of the higher prices. I'm just looking to have fun and not get into the leading problems I used to get. Thanks in advance!

 

[Ben_hutcherson]

I've loaded a lot of 240gr Xtreme plated bullets over 6.5gr Unique. This load is derived from 240gr jacketed data in my Lyman 49th manual. It's at the top end of 44 special data, but I don't worry about that too much since(like you) I only shoot it out of my 629.

 

[992B]

MJ,
I have found through many years of reloading that for full size handguns in good condition two good consistent loads. I use 7.0 grains of Unique with any good 240 grain lead bullet, and, 7.5 grains of Unique with a good 200 grain lead bullet.

You might want to limit the number of these loads you put through an old Triplelock. No need to push an antique's limit. Gary

 

[FloridaFlier]

I've been loading Berry's copper clad RN/FP bullets for my .44 Specials with a load of 5.8 gr HP-38. Since Berry's bullets don't have cannelures, I was using a COAL of 1.475. I wrote to Berry's, and they recommended a slightly longer COAL of 1.580, which I chose not to use. That's a lot of space for a small volume of powder. I don't have a chrony. Very pleasant load to shoot, and very accurate.

 

[Sclays]

.44 loading

Know a lot guys that will not shoot "special" loads in magnum revolvers. They prefer to make the equivalent load in magnum brass. There is some issue with hard deposits in the cylinder.
Perhaps you have created an excuse to add a Smith 24 to the collection?

 

[mikld]

No offense intended, but, get a manual and manufacturer's load info. Trying to reload safely without a manual (or 3) is silly...

 

[Rule3]

Plated bullets should not exceed around 1200 fps.

As revolver bullets need a crimp, and most revolver calibers use a roll crimp you need to adjust the crimp to be enough but not crack through the thin plating. Some plated are better than others. Put a crimp on a dummy round then use a inertia hammer and remove it. You will see how much of a crimp you put in the bullet. Do it till you crack through, then back off a bit..
Or you can get a taper crimp die.

 

[brokenprism]

MJ,
You might want to limit the number of these loads you put through an old Triplelock. No need to push an antique's limit. Gary

When you say "old Triplelock," do you mean the early triplelock .44 specials that were actually called that, or any pre-2nd-millenium-reinforced N frames, like 70s and 80s Model 29s? I've also heard those referred to as 'triplelocks,' which I suppose they are, technically.

 

[feralmerril]

I never had the leading problem to the point that it bothered me with my .44 specials. I am a nut on them as somehow I have accumilated 7 .44 specials.
I also have a 29-2 but I never bothered shooting .44 specials in it as I have the guns for them. Off the top of my head, for my 29-2 I think I used to load 6.0 grains of bullseye for that one. Since I got deep into .44 specials I havent bothered shooting light loads in the mag.

 

[Nemo288]

I always use the magnum brass when making and shooting target loads (for a magnum).
This negates the ring around the collar at the front of the chambers
that can build up to the point where a magnum won't chamber properly.
6.5 to 7.5 grains of Unique or Universal under a plated 240 works well.
10 grains of Unique is the top end so anything under that that seals the brass
in the chamber will work. Finding the right one for your gun is half the fun.

+++
Nemo

 

[MJFlores]

No offense intended, but, get a manual and manufacturer's load info. Trying to reload safely without a manual (or 3) is silly...

No worries, I've been reloading for many years and have several reloading manuals. As we all know, with 44 loads the manuals vary widely in test gun stats, barrel lengths, etc and few discuss plated bullets. I prefer to go the source and seek info from the guys actually doing it with revolvers and plated bullets. Resources like this forum often give you better data than a book published by the given bullet or powder maker.

 

[Rule3]

No worries, I've been reloading for many years and have several reloading manuals. As we all know, with 44 loads the manuals vary widely in test gun stats, barrel lengths, etc and few discuss plated bullets. I prefer to go the source and seek info from the guys actually doing it with revolvers and plated bullets. Resources like this forum often give you better data than a book published by the given bullet or powder maker.

Yes, data does vary from manual to manual but that is still the best place to arrive at what is best for you and your gun with the powder and bullets you have, (which you never mentioned what kind or weight bullet?)

JMHO but plated bullets are not what the 44 Special or Magnum were designed for, Either FMJ like XTP's or use hard cast lead. Plated bullets are OK in semi autos.

Getting data off a forum is not the way to do it.

Plated bullets simply stated use lead data or use mid range of FMJ data.

 

[Duster340]

Hey MJ,

I just loaded up a batch of Berry's 240 PFP's for my new Bulldog. Some using 7gr Unique & some using 8.5 gr Bluedot. Neither are "sizzling" loads, but do fine for plinking. That said, (and like others noted) get a few manuals, start low and work your way up.

Be well!

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Jacketed bullets

If you buy some Berry's, I hope you don't get them from that same batch I got mine from (which I created a thread about here). Since you don't want to mess with cast lead bullets, the cheapest option, then just get some name brand jacketed bullets that will be hassle-free, in more than one way, & for not a lot more.

 

[David R]

I am going to try plated bullets. I was a bullet caster for twenty some years. I have stopped doing that and the store bought cast bullets lead enough to cause accuracy problems. My cast bullets did not do that.

I am going to buy a box and try them. I want to try a full wadcutter.

Lead poisening is why I quit casting. Not only because the casting etc, but just too much lead everywhere. Plated bullets could be a less expensive way to shoot as often as I do.

David

 

[MJFlores]

Yeah, my main reason for wanting to stay away from lead cast is the cleaning problems I had back when I did use them. I just couldn;t get a load that resulted in the gun cleaning up as well as factory jacketed loads did. I like shooting, not cleaning so this is a factor for me. A big second is health risks. I shoot outside but you still breathe vaporized airborne lead particles when shooting cast bullets. The whole time handling them you've got our lead on your fingers and hands, and who knows what sort of "off gassing" they may give off just sitting on the shelf. I just want to avoid the potential health risks and stick to at least plated or if need be full jacketed bullets. I totally understand why others shoot lead, and I'm not implying they should stop doing so. My statement above ar only my personal feelings on it, for just me. I do load for .45 ACP and found a great deal on a bag of 500 Hornady 230 FMJ, so I'll be keeping my eyes peeled on that sort of deal also for .429 240 grain jacketed bullets. For now, all I have is one box of Hornady XTP to play with. Still looking for powder although I do have an almost new pound of Titegroup if I can find a decent load for it.

 

[Ratwrangler]

Berry's...

Just to chime in, I've been using Berry's now for a couple of years and i love them. I don't ask them for target accuracy and they deliver, best I can tell. I don't complain about their lack of consistency but I don't measure them and I consider them a cheap alternative to jacketed, not an expensive alternative to lead. My only complaint is I had come up with a remarkably good load for my 629 with their 240gr HP and Blue Dot and then they discontinued it. I can't seem to get the 240gr FP to do quite the same, or maybe that was just a "bad" batch.

 

[Rule3]

To go off topic here for a bit, but the issue was raised.

Lead poisoning. Your most exposure comes from indoor shooting. Sweeping the floor kicks up a lot. It covers all the counters walls etc. The majority of it comes from PRIMERS (unless they are lead free) not the lead bullets. Handling lead is NOT a source of exposure to your body if you wash your hands before eating, smoking, nose picking. It is not absorbed through the skin. It has to be ingested or inhaled, some through the eyes.

Leading in a gun is due to the wrong size and/or hardness of the ally. Most of the crude in the barrel is the lube,

Casting bullets is also not a risk if you are in a ventilated area. Solid lead does not "gas" off into the air.

So wash your hands , face and arms.

There are many threads on it. Here is one and if you do a search there are many more.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/232095-blood-lead-levels.html

Edit: Tite Goup is not a good choice for large capacity cartridges like the 44.