44 Triplelock Problem

delta-419

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
2,296
Reaction score
3,708
City & State/Province
NW Florida
I have installed a new hammer and trigger on a prewar 44HE triplelock to include a new Wolf spring in the rebound slide. The old hammer had the single action notch polished off??? making it double action only. The problem is that the rebound slide sticks. It is sticking on the hammer and and the hammer has to be pulled back a hair for the trigger to move forward. The rebound slide looks new and the ridge across the top is still with sharp edges. Should I stone the sharp edges so the hammer slides smoothly over the hump to release the trigger. Appreciate your comments!!!

Other than a hammer DA only, it looks new on the inside. This nickel gun was refinished? with out polishing. It has the tiny rough pitting (frosting) under a renickel, hammer and trigger were plated. The frame and cylinder edges are not rounded and all markings are sharp and clear. It must have set on a shelf all of its life, bore and chambers are bright and shiney.
 
Will it work OK with the original rebound spring in place (instead of the new Wolff replacement)?
 
Rebound Spring

No, I put the old spring back in and it still hangs up on the top of the slide. It works in SA, but when you pull the trigger, the hammer does not ride over the top of the slide to release the trigger. I am very hesitant to stone the hammer as TL hammers are like "hens teeth" to find. I will post a photo of where it sticks.
 
Rebound Slide

As you can see in the photo the hammer is preventing the slide from resetting the trigger. The trigger is still stuck in battery. A slight pressure on hammer spur releases the slide and resets the trigger. Should I stone the slide or the hammer.???
 
Rebound Slide

As you can see in the photo the hammer is preventing the slide from resetting the trigger. The trigger is still stuck in battery. A slight pressure on hammer spur releases the slide and resets the trigger. Should I stone the slide or the hammer.???
PICT1678.jpg
 
Neither, right now. I'd check to make sure you don't have a chafing bushing that's dragging or a high pin. Also look to see if the trigger nose is digging into the cylinder stop.
 
Neither, right now. I'd check to make sure you don't have a chafing bushing that's dragging or a high pin. Also look to see if the trigger nose is digging into the cylinder stop.
Good advice.

Also- have you tried it completely assembled?
If not, are you sure hammer, trigger, slide, and cyl stop are fully seated when you test with sideplate off?
Is cyl stop clear to slide down into the notch on the trigger?

Get it working with a factory rebound slide spring first, THEN try the Wolfe.
 
Rebound Slide

I will put the sideplate on and try it that way. Have not gone that route yet. Have had to tighten the rebound stud a couple of times as it loosens up fast. Will look for misfitting pins and high points as well. This old girl was a mid-term triplelock with a 4 didgit serial number of 9021. Thanks guys for the tips, I will probably be back with more questions. Your help plus Kuhnhausen's book are great resources.
 
Success!!!

Lee, it worked perfectly as soon as I tightened the last screw in the sideplate. Who would have thunk it. Burt, I really appreciate the help you have provided with my old shooter 44s. I am addicted to tinkering on old Smiths and Winchesters and with backup provided here on the FORUM it is a constant pleasure for an old retired guy like me. Thanks you guys for this place.
 
Have had to tighten the rebound stud a couple of times as it loosens up fast.
Stake it into the slots on the boss. If you are not comfortable with that, at least Loctite it.
Or both. :D
Don't leave it loose. That makes it more prone to breaking.
 
Back
Top